rkhess

iTrader: (54)

I Switched to longer self taping screws

trx450racer174

iTrader: (7)

First off i wanna say that i have not got Gold Barcodes to work on my 201 at SDRC.

My tire choice for rear is Green Barcodes , SS Rebar, SS Vektor all with AKA foams.

Front Green Barcodes, SS Vektor, SS Rebar, M4 PL Scrubs all with AKA foams.

There are only a few people that run a 201 at SDRC myself, Jimmy, Pres and another guy i cant remember his name at the moment.

I cant help with any setup as i am running a longer chassis and BB spring setup.

But as others have stated go to a complete book setup and start from there.

My 201 will come around if i have to much brakes dialed in at SDRC.

Good luck on getting it dialed in if im around i can try and help you out.

mxracer458

iTrader: (47)

Track was SDRC.[/QUOTE]

I ran mine only once but it was at west coast.Even for that high bite track the buggy was loose.When i run buggy and shortcourse at sdrc my brakes spa is backed off alot because i also tend to spin around,i think its just the surface.Also how much drag brake do you have set up?I know jimmy is super fast as well as the gentlemen in the wheel chair that runs the baby blue trf.I ran gold barcodes sauced up a lot at sdrc and it was hooked up on my b4 but i know different cars like different tires,kyosho loves rebars but couldnt get them to work if my life depended on it,I know most people at sdrc run really sauced up gold barcodes,or green compound,pink beams.The trf is a solid and really rough car,just have to find the setup that works for you

WhiteLX

iTrader: (11)

It does seem like a tough car. It cartwheeled several times, was hit by SC trucks, endos into jump faces, came back with dirt embedded into the shock towers and tire marks over the top of the body. Yet the only part that broke were the aluminum ball studs installed by me. Once I changed those out for M3x10 set screws and the threaded aluminum ball nuts that were for use with the original arms, I didn't have a problem for the rest of the night. I should have run that from the beginning. It just kept on coming back for more.

I'll make an order for some other tires and wheels soon. It will be good to have another compound to work with anyway. I will say it did seem to hook up a little better towards the end of the night. Either because the tires were breaking in or the battery was getting lower.

I am using a Reventon S with the drag brake at 20% and ABS at 50%. For the sweeper at the end of the back straight I have to use part throttle to make it around. If I tap the brakes even the slightest before the sweeper it will come around.

69/35 gearing worked well, it seemed to have good speed and the motor temps were just warm even after running for a full 5000 pack cut off at 6.8v.

I'm going to give wyd's setup a try the next time out. I'd really like to run without added weight if I can. How do recognize that I need to add weight and where to add it?

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I do have it with one of the mounts(but the other stays secure all the time for some reason), but it only loosens if I roll my car a lot, which in a way might be good, giving a little bit rather than breaking. As for tires, as is probably obvious right now, it really depends on your own needs, as well as what a given car needs for a given track surface. I have also tried Gold Barcodes at my local track, but even when broken in, they just don't work well enough on my 201, makes it WAY TOO squirrelly(though they actually feel pretty good on my DB01R, with gold barcodes all around), but greens all around on my 201 feel just about right....

CTRJ

iTrader: (13)

Here's what I'm using for a setup. Rear traction is excellent. Going to be trying a LMR bulkhead the next time I race which will hopefully eliminate the need for the 21g I put in front of the servo.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Going to experiment this weekend with a little heavier oil for my home track and see how it works during practice in the morning.

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

Where did you find front M4 Scrubs?

trx450racer174

iTrader: (7)

Proline 4wd buggy M4 scrubs. gotta be creative sometimes.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Had a chance to run my 201 at my home track with the new heavier oils (450 front and 400 rear oils with the Associated black BB spring in the front and Associated white BB springs in the rear. I normally run this combo with with 400 front and 350 rear oils.

The heavier oil felt great and between that and moving some shims around I shaved another 3 tenths off my times all while still running my broke toplate that is in 3 pieces because the Postal Service didn't deliver my stuff like it showed. Now it will be here Monday.

Car was super smooth and is getting better. I did run the Associated green BB front spring and then switched back to the black as it felt a little better and my laptimes where a little quicker. Once again very happy with the overall performance of my 201. Now I can't race for a few weeks because of work but next time out I want to try the 25 degree caster blocks. Right now my car is about 1 adjustment from being as fast lap times as the top 2 or 3 cars. I'm about 2 to 3 tenths away and thats ok as I'm creeping up on them and they are noticing thats for sure. They comment that my car is very smooth when they watch it go around the track.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Like to thank Ray Kindstrom for helping me out with a part I needed. Thanks again for the help.

DaveG28

iTrader: (65)

Anyone running a viper esc in their 201? Just wondering if the height is ok?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

My two setups I been using ate now up on Petit RC if anyone would like to look at them. One has the 400 oil front and 350 rear oil and worked on our high bite clay track and also worked on a medium bite rough dirt track. The other setup I used this weekend on our high bite clay indoors and has the 450 front oil and 400 rear oil setup. Really worked great for me this week and gained another 3 tenths off my best lap. The setup is really coming in nicely.

spud37

Guys what does moving the caster block forwards or backwards in front arms actually do ?
If using big bores Schumacher cat K1 shock collars U4149 thread straight on the stock tamiya shocks no adapters needed.
Anyone know the part number for the carbon reinforced xv01 rear hubs ?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

When you move the caster block forward is will lengthen the car and will smooth out the steering and will be less aggressive with the steering. Running them back will shorten the car and make the overall more steering and feel much more aggressive overall.