80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
10-25-2011, 07:23 AM
#1156
This won't help with the ballcups popping off (I know many have had issues, but we never have, even with the old ones), but I had the same adjusting issue when I built the 210. I took an 1/8 drill bit and bored the end of the ballcup roughly 3/16 deep to allow the shank of the link to not bind when it goes into the cup. You could also just shorten the ballcups by the same amount. As with any camber link assembly, use some type of lubricant- beeswax, chap stick, or black grease on the threads. I always use a drill to work the link in and out of the cups a few times before I assemble them for good.
10-25-2011, 07:30 AM
#1157
the plastic is too soft. The original ballcups would pop off when you tried adjusting the turnbuckle. The HD one's at least stay on when you're adjusting the turnbuckle but they still pop off way too easy IMO. I've converted all my previous durango vehicles over to Losi cups with standard ball ends and haven't had one problem.
10-25-2011, 07:53 AM
#1160
In theory, and correct me if I am wrong, a 3 gear rear has the motor spin up the usual way and when you punch it, the back of the car squats, taking weight off of the front wheels.
With the 4 gear, your motor is spinning the opposite direction and while the car may still squat under acceleration, it is not as much. So you have more weight on the front tires. (Motor spins toward the front/up instead of the towards the back/ground, essentially "lifting" the back of the car instead of forcing it down)
With the 4 gear, your motor is spinning the opposite direction and while the car may still squat under acceleration, it is not as much. So you have more weight on the front tires. (Motor spins toward the front/up instead of the towards the back/ground, essentially "lifting" the back of the car instead of forcing it down)
10-25-2011, 08:15 AM
#1161
10-25-2011, 08:18 AM
#1162
In RM4 the motor and diff spin the same direction. In theory this places a lot of down force on the rear tires.
10-25-2011, 08:24 AM
#1163
In a 4 gear config, the opposite happens. The motor spins forward, which makes the chassis rotate backwards, which means less pressure on the front tires, and more on the rear tires.
So in both configs the car squats on-throttle, but there is a slight pressure bias towards the front tires in 3 gear, and a slight bias towards the rear tires with the 4 gear.
10-25-2011, 08:29 AM
#1164
OK, so if I am looking for more steering, I should stick to the RM3 setup?
10-25-2011, 08:34 AM
#1165
Yes more or less. I've found I can get all the steering I need in both configurations so far.
10-25-2011, 08:50 AM
#1167
Randy, What is your front shock length (droop)? Your setup sheet is missing that.
Edit - To be more clear, I am looking to remove the on power push that I have in my setup. I removed a good bit of it, but still suffering a bit.
Last edited by sparkwraps; 10-25-2011 at 09:00 AM.
10-25-2011, 08:55 AM
#1168
Its a good day fellas! I just got my kit today and hopfully will be starting the build tonight. Has any thought about using RPM ballcups? I never had a issue with them on my B44. I'm thinking I should just get new ones before I start the build. I just want to make sure I get something that will work.
