80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-09-2012, 09:45 PM
#8656
Hey guys i was reading about the diff issues..everybody is having myself included...so I switched it out to the gear diff....packed it with 2000 diff oil...man the car felt a lot better..more consistent and smoother...
I run a blue groove med - high bite track...
I would recommend the gear diff ...I'm not going back to the ball diff..
Just my 2 cents...
I run a blue groove med - high bite track...
I would recommend the gear diff ...I'm not going back to the ball diff..
Just my 2 cents...
I've seen a number of mistakes at assembly already and it's tricky to put together, but I've done 2 now of my own and they're both still silky smooth after a number of runs.
11-10-2012, 03:31 AM
#8657
Hey folks,
I just finished building my DEX210 and for some reason, the car has no speed.. I built it mid motor and installed a Reedy Sonic and Tekin ESC.. I thought maybe it was the ESC and motor so I switched to what my Kyosho RB5 has which runs perfect, and the DEX210 still lacks power.. Is there a common issue w/ the Diff where something needs to be loosened/tightened? I'd really appreciate any feedback.. Thanks!
I just finished building my DEX210 and for some reason, the car has no speed.. I built it mid motor and installed a Reedy Sonic and Tekin ESC.. I thought maybe it was the ESC and motor so I switched to what my Kyosho RB5 has which runs perfect, and the DEX210 still lacks power.. Is there a common issue w/ the Diff where something needs to be loosened/tightened? I'd really appreciate any feedback.. Thanks!
11-10-2012, 04:49 AM
#8658
Hey folks,
I just finished building my DEX210 and for some reason, the car has no speed.. I built it mid motor and installed a Reedy Sonic and Tekin ESC.. I thought maybe it was the ESC and motor so I switched to what my Kyosho RB5 has which runs perfect, and the DEX210 still lacks power.. Is there a common issue w/ the Diff where something needs to be loosened/tightened? I'd really appreciate any feedback.. Thanks!
I just finished building my DEX210 and for some reason, the car has no speed.. I built it mid motor and installed a Reedy Sonic and Tekin ESC.. I thought maybe it was the ESC and motor so I switched to what my Kyosho RB5 has which runs perfect, and the DEX210 still lacks power.. Is there a common issue w/ the Diff where something needs to be loosened/tightened? I'd really appreciate any feedback.. Thanks!
Second spot to check is that the transmission is not bound. Did you use an impact gun to tighten the motor plate screws down through the tranny? I tighten one, check to make sure it is still free. Tighten the next one and so one. One at a time. Use locktight - those screws don't need to be that tight.
The car has speed, just find where yours is not setup right.
11-10-2012, 06:16 AM
#8660
Actually moved the Shorty all the way forward, cut up an AE carbon strap and put my VTX behind it.
Got two packs thru it yesterday and its mad fast.
Before
After
11-10-2012, 06:43 AM
#8661
Did mine Thursday Ted and weighed it before/after. Don't see as much weight differentce as I thought, but I think its more about weight distribution/flex etc.
Actually moved the Shorty all the way forward, cut up an AE carbon strap and put my VTX behind it.
Got two packs thru it yesterday and its mad fast.
Before
After
Actually moved the Shorty all the way forward, cut up an AE carbon strap and put my VTX behind it.
Got two packs thru it yesterday and its mad fast.
Before
After
Yeah...Toby I'm looking forward to getting the new set up on the track...
Gonna make a trip to the island for some boosting fun...
I also swicthed to gear diff...I'm really liking the feel of it....
11-10-2012, 07:16 AM
#8663
(Well, in my DEST210)
11-10-2012, 04:08 PM
#8665
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.
Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
11-10-2012, 04:32 PM
#8666
I just got my DEX and went through, gathered basic info, necessary mods, tuning tips and such. Yes it comes with Durango Fat Shocks (12mm big bore) and plastic preload collars. It comes with light blue 45 and 65mm springs. The basic mods/upgrades recommended to me were:
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.
Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.
Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
11-10-2012, 05:56 PM
#8668
I just got my DEX and went through, gathered basic info, necessary mods, tuning tips and such. Yes it comes with Durango Fat Shocks (12mm big bore) and plastic preload collars. It comes with light blue 45 and 65mm springs. The basic mods/upgrades recommended to me were:
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.
Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
1. Boil the ballcup part tree the same way you boil eggs, then use a 1/8 drill bit and drill into the cup .200 or so. Then put black grease on the turnbuckles and thread them all the way in and out a few times.
2. Ackerman upgrade. Upgrade to an aluminum ackerman.
3. I decided to do the Capt. america mod as well. That involves mounting the ackerman under the bell cranks instead of on top of them. You will have to put 2mm of washers under the bellcranks to raise it up enough to clear everything lock to lock. Then you can just add 5mm of washers to the aluminum ackerman instead of a big pile on the steering knuckle. I got pointed in this direction by 4 top Durango drivers, but opinions vary.
3. Most of the DEX drivers will tell you to run 4-hole pistons. It calms the car down. You can plug a couple holes in the provided pistons, or get some blanks. Blanks dont come in the kit.
4. Plastic chassis! Everybody I spoke to told me based on the tracks in Az, to run the plastic DIMEC +8mm.
5. Watch the Team Durango ball diff build video and read the how to. It can mean the difference between amazing diff, or car wont even go.
6. Springs, get a few based on the average setup from your style track on Durangos website. I only had to get dark green, dark blue, and black F/R and I'm good to go anywhere in Az.
7. Front droop screws. Almost everyone shaves the droop tabs off of the front bulk head and takes the droop screws out of the front arms. They instead use 1-2mm of travel limiters in the front shocks.
Now I'm still getting my feet wet with this car, but these are recommendations based on 50+ emails and texts, phone calls to TDR drivers.
What does the Capt. America mod do for the car besides relocating washers?
11-10-2012, 06:00 PM
#8669
If a new car came out next week you would have to wait weeks or months for it to be in stock, and then even longer for parts. I say get the 210 now, drive it, wear it out. By then there might be a V2 available. Who knows.
11-10-2012, 07:24 PM
#8670
The mod does basically just relocate the washers. But it moves them from a 5 or 6mm stack on a piece of plastic to a 5mm stack onto a peice of aluminum. The reason I decided to do it was because of the multiple sources I got it from. After seeing the new triple at Glitch, seems like it might save me a few knuckles.