Durango DEX210 Thread
Funny you mention this. I just machined one out of aluminum and I'll do the other tomorrow. I have machined shock towers as well. Next I'll wok on the rear hubs. It still handles great w/ the extra weight and now is darn near bullet proof. I love driving it w/o worry. It's my most durable track car.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Might just order this:
http://www.rcshox.com/durango-gearbox-fix/
You can drill mount holes on current gear box further in from the current ones and it eliminates the break (just have to dremel a little off the out casing by the idler gears).. I actually snapped a ti stud and cant get it out so thinkin of ordering something like above because if the stud breaks you can easily remove it.
pic u can see what I mean for drilling, but the pic is of a new GB design
http://www.rcshox.com/durango-gearbox-fix/
You can drill mount holes on current gear box further in from the current ones and it eliminates the break (just have to dremel a little off the out casing by the idler gears).. I actually snapped a ti stud and cant get it out so thinkin of ordering something like above because if the stud breaks you can easily remove it.
pic u can see what I mean for drilling, but the pic is of a new GB design
Yeah, I don't get how some of you guys are breaking so much.....
Hey guys, I just got an email from Tower that my back ordered steering knuckle sets (c hubs) have shipped. Should be able to order them within a day or so if you can't already.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
Wow, I'm glad I ordered a set of almost everything that could break on this car while it was all still in stock! The first time I broke my dex at the track I was lucky enough to be able to bum a part from another racer. If that one guy hadn't been there I'd have been screwed. That night I went home and ordered everything I thought I could break from amain.
Of course I didn't think of everything, because a few weeks ago I broke my steering rack during signups and didn't have a car to race that day I bought a nice aluminum one to replace it.
Two weeks ago I broke a rear tower during a main (second broken tower of the season). The CF tower I ordered that night just showed up yesterday and looks pretty trick on my dex
Of course I didn't think of everything, because a few weeks ago I broke my steering rack during signups and didn't have a car to race that day I bought a nice aluminum one to replace it.
Two weeks ago I broke a rear tower during a main (second broken tower of the season). The CF tower I ordered that night just showed up yesterday and looks pretty trick on my dex
Tech Apprentice
I even swapped back to my stock ball studs and cups from my Lunsford set in hopes I'd just pop a cup if there was too much force, but no luck. This particular parts tree seems like a weaker type of plastic and doesn't look like it would benefit from boiling the parts. Does anyone boil these parts and notice a difference?
I have 2 sets coming from Hobbico (warranty claim), 5 on back order at Tower, and will be getting the Aluminum RDRP ones ASAP.
Neil
Tech Champion
iTrader: (79)
c hubs
hey guys i am looking for just the left c hub on the front? i keep breaking the left!!
i have two rights if there is anyone who would want to swap? sell?
thanks
Rob
i have two rights if there is anyone who would want to swap? sell?
thanks
Rob
I can't believe it either! I'm in the same boat as you; I consider myself very lucky if I leave the track without breaking at least one C-Hub Like you, I am not the best driver out there, but I am certainly not close to the bottom of the pack. They usually break off little bumps into the pipe or land a little sideways, it is the only part I have broken in a very long time. There are probably 6-8 other guys with DEX210's and they say they've never (or very rarely) break them
I even swapped back to my stock ball studs and cups from my Lunsford set in hopes I'd just pop a cup if there was too much force, but no luck. This particular parts tree seems like a weaker type of plastic and doesn't look like it would benefit from boiling the parts. Does anyone boil these parts and notice a difference?
I have 2 sets coming from Hobbico (warranty claim), 5 on back order at Tower, and will be getting the Aluminum RDRP ones ASAP.
Neil
I even swapped back to my stock ball studs and cups from my Lunsford set in hopes I'd just pop a cup if there was too much force, but no luck. This particular parts tree seems like a weaker type of plastic and doesn't look like it would benefit from boiling the parts. Does anyone boil these parts and notice a difference?
I have 2 sets coming from Hobbico (warranty claim), 5 on back order at Tower, and will be getting the Aluminum RDRP ones ASAP.
Neil
Sean
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
if I never ran at my home track where it's very tacky and sometimes bumpy and having high speed areas and jumps, I would agree with you. At the pace the top guys are carrying here, your car can randomly flip and tumble at anytime. Or you could land slightly wrong off a high speed jump into a very tacky and bumpy area and it can snap parts like its nothing.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
[QUOTE=Raul Garcia;11789821]FINALLY.....
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...0mmChassis.jpg[/QUOTE
raul chk this out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-675.html
tresrey will be around 140-160$ i will be selling them around 70$ canadian dollars
chk my picture of the P68+10
pete68
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...0mmChassis.jpg[/QUOTE
raul chk this out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-675.html
tresrey will be around 140-160$ i will be selling them around 70$ canadian dollars
chk my picture of the P68+10
pete68
Last edited by pete68; 02-08-2013 at 07:38 AM. Reason: missing info
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Which body does everyone recommend running? Just picked up a 210 and need to get one sprayed with my color scheme. Thanks
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)