porter

iTrader: (47)

Are you planning on running at Fastlane or Shawnee? Fastlane can handle a bit more motor due to traction and more open layouts (8.5 for 2wd, 7.5 for 4wd). Shawnee has much tighter layouts where a lot of motor is really not needed (10.5 for 2wd and 8.5 for 4wd). Jakes in Topeka would be pretty similar to Shawnee, a little more open but traction can get little sketchy at times

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

the Losi is hands down a better kit to build, instructions are better, parts are bagged in an organized fashion, etc...but to answer your question, the kit aluminum chassis is NOT +8. The RTR includes the +8 chassis and ball diff, but does not include any of the parts needed to make it MM (idler gear, bearings, etc) I have a RTR DESC210 and a kit DEX210 (and a kit Losi 22T)

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Wow. What a difference the front Holeshots made. Like an entirely new buggy that would actually steer on power. Loved it at practice tonight!!!

EvanAZ

iTrader: (99)

Can someone please tell me what the advantage of the lowered rear shock tower would have?

Thinking of giving it a try.

Thanks

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I am not sure other than adding to droop, should be similar to running longer shock shafts, no?

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

yeah, more droop, more steering and lower cg a bit

Dino_D

I have both cars. Most people are upgrading the pro kit chassis to the dimec +8 chassis. If you run on carpet a gear diff is preferred, on dirt use a ball diff. I had a losi 22 before, and I can tell you that the 210 has more steering than the 22, but the 22 is a stronger car. Also using the 4 gear transmission with the avid slipper will give you more grip and acceleration over the 22 on a loose track.

The difference between the 210 Pro Kit and the RTR is that the Pro Kit comes with a ball diff, extra idle gears for 4 gear transmission, rear aluminum sus. holder and the aluminum chassis. The RTR kits comes with a gear diff, and the newer +8 composite chassis. It would be easier to just buy the extra idle gear and the aluminum sus holder and ball diff (if necessary). Bonus is that the RTR comes with electronics already, but get rid of the stock servo saver on the RTR and use a direct servo horn.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

Not sure where this info came from. So, to correct the statements that are wrong here. The RTR includes a gear diff, not a ball diff and it includes everything that you need to change it to MM3/MM4/RM4 except maybe a couple bearings that go in the idler gears. It comes RM3. If you get the RTR you NEED to get some aluminum skid plates to protect the weak parts of the chassis. The Losi kit is a good vehicle, but that steering rack is atrocious.

P6

iTrader: (5)

Anyone wanna shoot me a offer I switched to dimec with skids so ill let my kit chassis with side pods go just pm me

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

It does not include everything you need to convert to 4 gear trans. You need the pins, idlers, shim kit, and bearings. The gear diff only has 2 spiders vs the 4 you'd want. That being said, I still went with the RTR as I wanted the +8 chassis and the cab forward body. I ordered the aluminum rack and ball diff, ripped the electronics out, and used mine.

As for the handling comments vs the 22, I didnt have the same results. Not sure how people seem to manage to get a 22 to not steer as it has plenty, typically being tougher to get a tight setup than most vehicles (apparently the 2.0 addresses that). Having driven it, the 210 (only +8), the B4.1 WC, and the Tamiya in the last 3 years, I have had the same results with all of them after some setup changes. The stock setup on the RTR is actually pretty good for a medium traction outdoor track on the appropriate tires. It tends to understeer but not horrible. I made a ton of changes to the front of the car and have it steering much better now along with a different shock setup (had Avid springs on hand so went with those). I've read a lot of posts about weak rear shock towers and that the chassis was weak as well but I've have no issues with either. Actually, havent had a single problem with the car yet and stuffed it on a couple big jumps twice that made me cringe.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

A ball diff doesn't have spider gears. The RTR has a 2 spider gear, gear diff. The kit has a ball diff and the alternate gear diff has 4 spider gears.

daveb

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the information. I should have bought the pro kit a couple of weeks ago when my shop had it for $139. So what chassis is everyone running? I understand Lutz is running a +8 alum. chassis but I only see (1) on the website and its the kit chassis which I understand isn't +8. If I could find one for as low as my shop out here was selling it for I'd buy it. Upgrade to a ball diff and tear it down for a new chassis so my son can understand how it goes together.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Correct. Lutz is running a prototype which isn't available.

A lot of people here either upgrade to the Dimec +8(better you get the type B) or aluminum.

A few machinists or RCTech made both +8 and +10 models. rcjunky1 and BMan's 3XNT come to mind. I have stuff from both of them. High quality stuff.

Tresrey(+10) and RDRP(+11) also make an aluminum chassis.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Here's a link to a list of option/aftermarket chassis http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...market#chassis

Sam Macmillan

Hey guys, I have a dex210 rtr and I love it, I wanted to get into a 4 wheel buggy and I think I would like to go with a durango. First question, should I get the r or the reguler, second question, should I buy a desc210 and race that instead of a four wheel drive, and is a thirteen five a good place to start for the four wheel? Please reply, thx