fredswain

iTrader: (1)

At the time I didn't have 4 bladders. I was really just trying to get the shocks together to check the lengths anyways. Had I have continued and gotten it setup and tuned, they'd have all gotten bladders.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

It all works for me Though I did notice the two bladder shocks had more consistent rebound at the end. Might have just been how I filled the shocks. I had only let them sit for a few minutes before closing them all up.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I will personally never run emulsion ever again.

jon.lindgren

Why? I feel elulsion shoks are more constant to run, less bounsing.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

An emulsion shock is less consistent under any circumstance. You never want air and oil mixed together. It is the controlled passage of oil through the holes in the piston that control dampening. Any air will affect that and you can't guarantee the same amount consistently. A bladder allows this to remain constant but a bladder shock should only be run closed and not vented. The worst possible setup you can run is an open vent bladder. Next worst is emulsion. My response to the people that claim those setups are better is that they don't fundamentally know how to tune a shock. Even some of the best drivers in the world have the worst understanding of tuning.

Alan_r

Project time....

Here's the plan.

Started off with a new Exotek chassis. On sale so I couldn't resist.

Now I'm going to build a "DEX210V3.5" using the LEAST amount of Team Durango parts that I can. If the aftermarket makes an upgrade or replacement, it will be on this buggy. Power will be by ORCA using their butter smooth VRITRA VX3 ESC and a matching 6.5T.

Not sure what direction I'm going to go, most likely V3 front arms mated to Associated kashima shocks. This should be fun. I'll post things as it comes along.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Call me crazy, but I prefer Durango's shocks over AE's. Aside from the Kashima coating, they just seem dated to me.

Would be cool to see a car loaded with aftermarket parts from Exotek, etc. though. I'm slowly getting there with my DESC210.

I tried the vented slipper tonight and was a bit surprised when little pieces of the pad few out. Those little holes are really hard on the pad. I have a feeling that I'll be replacing them more often than in the past.

micholix

As for the vented slipper, you could slightly counter sink the holes at the inside, that the edges of the holes are not that sharp anymore, may worth to try!?
If you dont have a counter sink in this little size, just use a 3 or 4 mm drill bit, instead and twist it with your fingers.

Alan_r

Yeah I'm excited to see how it all works when done. The Kashimas are just an idea because I have some. Admittedly, the Durango Big Bores are pretty damn smooth, especially when built with green slime and purple o rings. I'll make a final decision once I'm at the point of doing measurements.

Update on the spinning front axles when trying to loosen the front wheel screws; The 210V3 comes with aluminum front axles. I ordered a few sets of steel ones. Maybe that will help, we'll see.

Airlmeier4422

iTrader: (10)

Price cut on dex210 stuff.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tire-sale.html

Fearo

Alright guys, I am fairly new to setting up a car, and even newer to the DEX210 but I'm hoping some of you can help me out. I'm running a bone stock V3 with a gear diff (4K oil) and 1,5° anti-squat (I broke the 0° part) and I'm mainly running on medium grip astroturf. Ride height and suspension setup is the same (or close) as what others are running at the track, though nobody else runs a Durango. Tyres are Schumacher Mini Darts (rear) and cut staggers (front), which is again what everybody else runs.

Basically the car has incredibly little rear traction and way too much steering. Medium to high speed on-power steering is 'ok' but off-throttle steering is way too twitchy and there is no grip accelerating out of corners. The car always OVERturns. Could this be what people refer to as "diffing out"? (it's my first gear diff car).

I know self experimentation is best, but my time at the track is limited, so I'm hoping some of you who know the ins and outs of this car can help me out a little.

Before this post turns into a novel I'll make a brief summary of the problem and things I'm thinking of doing:

-Stock DEX210 (3 gear MM) with gear diff (4K) and 1,5° anti-squat
-Too much (twitchy) steering, no rear grip, car overturns in every corner
-Potential solutions? Heavier diff oil? More toe-in? Raising rear links?
-What's the slipper clutch' role in all of this? Right now I have 2mm thread exposed.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Pistol123

When I first went to 3gear mm from 4 gear I had issues with lifting an inside rear wheel under acceleration out of corners. I found that lengthening the rear top links sorted the problem.

Other things you can check/try is the position of the front hubs - all the way forward gives the most steering so check and move back. Other things to try would stiffening the front, move bottom of the front shocks out, take out any washers in the front inner top links and try left camber.

Fearo

Thanks, I will definitely try those to lessen the steering.
As for the traction issue, I never lift the front wheel accelerating, the car just always spins out, it wants to do a 180 in every corner. The weird thing is there is also not nearly enough rear grip when driving in a straight line. You would swear I'm either running the wrong tyres or way too much weight in the front, but neither of those is true.

Pistol123

Just clarify I was lifting the inside rear tyre coming out of the corner, causing it to spin.

Might also be worth checking your rear toe and droop screws if you are having problems on the straight.

How many gears do you have in your diff? I found 3k with 4 gears was good and 7k with 2 gears. 7k with 4 gears have me loads of understeer.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

How is your battery positioned? Try something simple like moving it back some.