WallyRC

Looking good Alan but if you are running three gear your transmission is built wrong. Your motor is pointing in the direction of MM4. It should be pointing the other way w/ MM3?!?! I know it's confusing.. ugh. Defeating the whole purpose of motor and tire spin direction. You need to switch your motor plate to the other side and switch the top shaft and bearing around. Just want you to enjoy the drive.

I tried the 3x1.6 rear as well. Handles bumps well but didn't pack up quick enough on big jumps.
I hope she handles better for you this time around!! Woohoo!!

psl

I purchased the Exotek MM chassis recently. The first three weeks I struggled with a set up. The last two weeks I have started dialing the chassis in. I used the low traction set up with the 3 gear MM set up. I moved the rear shocks in one hole and I used the 3 hole pistons. I am going to try the 2 hole pistons this week. We race on an indoor dirt track. Electrons are the tire of choice that works best for our track. Keep the ideas coming in.

WallyRC

Psl, we must run on similar track. I am going to purchase the exotek chassis next month for my sons birthday. I modified for sideways shorty a while ago. I just went with 3x1.4 up front and 2x1.6 in the rear. It worked well. Settles car down on landings. I believe 30 up front and 27.5 rear. (2x1.6f/ 2x1.7r works well) thought of trying 2x1.6 all around. Battery is about 5-7 mm from rear post. Have 20 gram exotek under servo. Rear Kyosho white springs and front are yokomo pink.
MM3 works the best for me. MM4 had too much weight transfer
front <--> back.
Hope this helps some.
What body did you go with on the new chassis??

Alan_r

Are you kidding me? LMFAO....at least I'll be well practiced when I start messing with my DESC and DEST. I built the DESC but haven't run it yet. Now I need to go check it to make sure I got it right there too.

Alan_r

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...onfigurations/

Man I guess I should have researched this more. I've learned something here, Team Durango vehicles require you to reference both the manual and their website to fully understand them. The manual is not at all specific about motor configuration regarding MM3......back apart it comes. Lol

WallyRC

The website is definitely more clear. We have all done it before.
Better now than at the track. LOL

Alan_r

Right! I was heading out tomorrow morning and I would have set it on the pit ramp, climbed up to the drivers stand, got positioned and relaxed. Applied throttle and it would have careened off in reverse!.........smh. Thank you, glad I posted a picture.

I've never had a convertible car before. AE all the way...wow.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

if durango would go back to the old durango, I can only imagine what we could see come out of the dex210 style platform. The got some killer stuff in 1/10 4wd and that carpet specific 210F.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

If setup properly, front shocks should always have less piston hole area and a lower weight oil. Shock pack is volume and velocity dependant and this is the only way to balance it out. Every single setup that uses either the same pistons, larger hole area in the front and/or the same weight oil all around or thicker oil in front is an improper setup. Sadly even most of the world's best drivers don't understand this. Get this wrong and then you are tuning everything else weird to compensate for its shortcomings.

blankenj99

You should download the manual for the original DEX210. It has all that info in it as well...

blankenj99

Kinda surprised you would do that too. AE cars with the 3 gear tranny are also motor plate on the vehicle's right side...

Alan_r

This is true, but I'm not going off memory or habit here. I've got the DEX210V2 manual out. And it shows for RM motor plate on the passenger side, MM (non specific) with the plate on the drivers side.....in every single picture. As of an hour ago, I didn't know I needed to reference their website in addition to the owners manual. Now I know...lol

Alan_r

Let's try this again. Setup as a MM3.


Fred: that's interesting. As far back as I can remember, as a rule of thumb when in doubt as to what oil you should start out with in a 2wd buggy, it was always a safe bet to go 35 front and 30 rear. Now I'm really curious about how this car will perform tomorrow.

psl

I used the J Concepts body for the Losi 22,3.0. There is the fit from the top and bottem.

WallyRC

Psl, body looks good car. Car looks great. I see you are running MM4. If you can't seem to get it dialed the way you want you should really try MM3. It drives better in my opinion.
Thanks so much for posting pics


Fred, I hear you. I have read everything you have written. I have tried many set ups. And so far the 3x1.4 in front and 2x1.6 rear has been the smoothest. My rational is the front pistons are moving slower than the rear. So theory says more holes and smaller pack quicker than less holes and larger. Maybe the 3x1.4 pack similar to the 2x1.6 in rear. I balance my springs first, then work my way up in oils to get dampening equal. Mine is close 30wt front and 27.5 rear. If I went 2x1.7 rear then it would probably be 30 weight and equal to front. But I like the pack off big jumps with the 2x1.6 rear better. Car settles and doesn't get so squirrelly. I had 2x1.5 front with lighter oil but the 3x1.4 have been better.
Just my observation.