80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
04-23-2016, 08:52 PM
Are you using those brass colored shims? Maybe take them out?
04-24-2016, 02:11 AM
Tech Adept
04-24-2016, 05:50 AM
Tech Legend
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Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Has anyone talked with Travis Amezcua or JP Richards about the problem since those are their two main guys that I know of. Maybe they know something and maybe they could help with finding bodies as well. Not sure if you guys tried ordering right from Durango or not?
04-24-2016, 06:15 AM
04-24-2016, 06:36 AM
04-24-2016, 09:10 AM
Tell your buddy that as a die hard Mazda rotary fan, I love his paint job. Also tell him that he has the 1990 variation of it rather than the LeMans winning 1991 scheme!
04-24-2016, 05:13 PM
Tech Adept
04-24-2016, 06:44 PM
Hmm.. I might have to give the JC body another try, especially since its my only real option at this point. Is anyone using it in RM?
04-25-2016, 07:00 AM
I am, you only need to cut enough space for the motor plate/ gear cover. Which is a bit tricky since it isn't marked, I just cut bit by bit until it fit.
04-25-2016, 02:07 PM
Anti Squat
Having read this and the camber link thread, I think I have caught up with the draw backs of mm4 - Running on grass and have noticed a) I can't hold a tight line under power on a long apex corner and
b) quick confidence lift on the last corner before a long straight , nose dives, digs in and traction rolls.
When running mm4 indoors I tried 0' antisquat and it turned into a drift monster. I am thinking that with mm3 I can go lower and think 1.5' will be safer, but any feedback if I could get away with 0' for mm3 and what would the benefit be?
b) quick confidence lift on the last corner before a long straight , nose dives, digs in and traction rolls.
When running mm4 indoors I tried 0' antisquat and it turned into a drift monster. I am thinking that with mm3 I can go lower and think 1.5' will be safer, but any feedback if I could get away with 0' for mm3 and what would the benefit be?
Last edited by Pistol123; 04-26-2016 at 01:00 AM.
04-25-2016, 06:14 PM
04-26-2016, 01:22 PM
Has anyone heard anything on the lack of parts and the kits being backordered until fall?
04-27-2016, 12:53 AM
Tech Adept
I installed the Exotek alloy gear cover yesterday, it looks pretty nice if I do say so my self.
04-27-2016, 06:20 AM
Tech Legend
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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04-27-2016, 08:07 AM
Just to keep the thread going I thought I'd list what I've done to the car.
I currently have the Exotek gear cover, steering, and rear MM bulkhead. I use TLR ball studs and cups with Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles. I have the STRC carbon rear tower V1 with V1 rear shocks mounted in front of the arms and I run the tall DESC210 front tower with V2 rear shocks up front. I run bladders. I prefer to run MM3 but if more grip is required I'll switch to RM3. I will never again ever go back to MM4 under any circumstances. To eliminate bump steer I've had to use 6mm of spacers under the ball stud on the steering spindles. I am back to inline steering again and as such run bearing wheels. Fine tuning is done through caster, trail, and rear squat. I'm currently at 0° right now.
I am still playing around with some things. Although I don't consider this car to be a serious competitor, it is a good experimentation platform. An interesting thing that I'm playing with is an alternate battery/electronics layout that you unfortunately can't do easily with a stock chassis. I am laying things out using scales to get equal left and right balance. The battery (shorty) is going to be mounted lengthwise down the chassis like stock but offset with the electronics directly next to it, speed control behind the receiver. Their exact position will be determined based on balance. Obviously battery capacity and hence weight will also affect this so I'm looking to design a tray that slightly moves side to side to easily balance things. It wouldn't be ROAR legal since a saddle or stick would no longer fit but I don't attend ROAR races so that's irrelevant.
If the layout works and is narrow enough, it would be very easy to make the car an oval car as well by just running a stick pack offset so I've got double duty in mind.
I currently have the Exotek gear cover, steering, and rear MM bulkhead. I use TLR ball studs and cups with Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles. I have the STRC carbon rear tower V1 with V1 rear shocks mounted in front of the arms and I run the tall DESC210 front tower with V2 rear shocks up front. I run bladders. I prefer to run MM3 but if more grip is required I'll switch to RM3. I will never again ever go back to MM4 under any circumstances. To eliminate bump steer I've had to use 6mm of spacers under the ball stud on the steering spindles. I am back to inline steering again and as such run bearing wheels. Fine tuning is done through caster, trail, and rear squat. I'm currently at 0° right now.
I am still playing around with some things. Although I don't consider this car to be a serious competitor, it is a good experimentation platform. An interesting thing that I'm playing with is an alternate battery/electronics layout that you unfortunately can't do easily with a stock chassis. I am laying things out using scales to get equal left and right balance. The battery (shorty) is going to be mounted lengthwise down the chassis like stock but offset with the electronics directly next to it, speed control behind the receiver. Their exact position will be determined based on balance. Obviously battery capacity and hence weight will also affect this so I'm looking to design a tray that slightly moves side to side to easily balance things. It wouldn't be ROAR legal since a saddle or stick would no longer fit but I don't attend ROAR races so that's irrelevant.
If the layout works and is narrow enough, it would be very easy to make the car an oval car as well by just running a stick pack offset so I've got double duty in mind.