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Old 10-09-2012, 02:36 PM
  #5011  
mkl
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http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/06/traxxa...version-build/

Good review of the three popular chassis for the Slash 4x4.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:00 PM
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When I disconnect the servo and move the steering back and forth on the Slash it takes a lot of effort vs the mugen. The mugen feels like it flows while the slash feels like you need to work it. Tried 2 STRC steering sets and disliked them both. Notice the part with STRC, theres is a screw that fits through each hole which is too small for the hole. That left imo a lot of play in the steering, for some reason right side had more play then left. Like I said I tried 2 sets and didn't like them but maybe I did something wrong. Ended up using Hot Racing's set. It is also annoying to connect the servo to the horn. Not really ranting since I am very happy with the LCG but little things bug me.



Originally Posted by SSCLCG.com
Cool rundown Toast cause that's the 1st Mugen 1:8 buggy to SC 4x4 conversion I've seen. So what is the LCG-issue with steering? I see you have the STRC bellcrank and RCE Protrac-dimensioned a-arms which both add more response/steering. Also see you have the battery at the front of the rear slot-set.

High-end 1:8ebuggies are definitely a different class with much larger components (just the scale of the steering bellcrank setup is something else). Definitely an interesting approach to switching things up in SC4x4 and that's what I love most about the class (how vastly different each option available or converted is). It'll be interesting to see which 1:8ebuggy companies step into SC4x4 and what approach they'll take. As an Engineer the SC10 4x4 may be considered 'over-engineered' but I commend AE for starting from a blank slate. It sure will be tough to beat the touring-car style performance the efficient Traxxas Slash 4x4 drivetrain offers (for acceleration & braking). Even when weighed down to match say a Losi or even your Mugen, it'll still feel lighter.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:42 PM
  #5013  
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Toast - this isn't the 1st time I heard about the steering bind with shoulder bolt/steering link interfaces and haven't experienced with mine (no resistance). The HR looks like a nice piece but I'm wondering it the non-spring side has another joint built into it (w/2-anodizing colors).... Can you let us know?

I agree it's tough to access the servo horn and other side of the steering link. When designing/developing it proved to be a set-it-and-leave-it area that I didn't want to added more bottom edges to catch soil while panning out (w/open holes). The 4-top screws are all it takes to cock the servo to the side and access the servo horn with a driver from the diagonal edge/angle.... It's quirky but faster w/less bottom friction points...
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:44 AM
  #5014  
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Sounds like you get what you pay for. Thanks for the link.



Originally Posted by mkl
http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/06/traxxa...version-build/

Good review of the three popular chassis for the Slash 4x4.
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:32 AM
  #5015  
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Originally Posted by ta_man
Does this mean they are REAL? Finally after years of waiting?
hahahaha....yes sir
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:27 AM
  #5016  
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Originally Posted by toast.
When I disconnect the servo and move the steering back and forth on the Slash it takes a lot of effort vs the mugen. The mugen feels like it flows while the slash feels like you need to work it. Tried 2 STRC steering sets and disliked them both. Notice the part with STRC, theres is a screw that fits through each hole which is too small for the hole. That left imo a lot of play in the steering, for some reason right side had more play then left. Like I said I tried 2 sets and didn't like them but maybe I did something wrong. Ended up using Hot Racing's set. It is also annoying to connect the servo to the horn. Not really ranting since I am very happy with the LCG but little things bug me.

If you have problems with the STRC rack call Steve at STRC and maybe he can help you with your problem or maybe he knows what needs changed. My new steering rack works great and I think Mark at SSC is running that steering rack but maybe Mark will pop in and confirm if I'm correct on that.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:05 AM
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http://www.rcplanet.com/ProductDetai...ctCode=TRA3967

Toast - if I'm following you... I think you need these screws. They make everything snug.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:07 AM
  #5018  
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Yup, looks like those screws would have made the difference.
The STRC kits should come with those screws.


Originally Posted by wicker9
http://www.rcplanet.com/ProductDetai...ctCode=TRA3967

Toast - if I'm following you... I think you need these screws. They make everything snug.
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:33 AM
  #5019  
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wyd - yeap, I made the upgrade after fighting left-right steering issues everytime the plastic bellcrank was worn (January this year). The STRC unit has been good to me every since (same one showing minimal wear).

wicker9 & Toast - great catch/call on the shoulder bolts (didn't even think to ask). The shoulder bolts do come with the stock bellcrank for the conversion to the STRC bellcrank. Enjoy having dependable steering now.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:42 AM
  #5020  
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hello all,

I just bought a savox servo for my new 1/8th ebuggy, I only have the servo and the roller so I cant try it out. I was wondering if i can but it my slash 4x4 to try it out, I dont need to drive it i just want to see if it works.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:01 AM
  #5021  
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just plug it into your receiver on the slash
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:09 AM
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Default Overheating

Hi,

I'm new to the hobby and bought a used traxxas slash 4wd vxl on ebay, including some lipos (3s) and some spare parts. Now I already repaired one back axle and got a new pinion gear (13t) and got it running now.
Unfortunately it heats up (motor) quite fast and I wonder what the reason might be. Maybe I should disassemble the engine and diffs and apply some oil here and there...
Any advise is highly appreciated.

Or should I tooth down even further with 3s?

Also what is the best way to properly cover the differentials from sand getting in there? The existing cover ends right where the motor begins
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:23 AM
  #5023  
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what temps are you getting? the traxxas vxl motor doesn't like 3cells,it goes fast but gets very hot and ruins the motor. 160/165 is it on the temps. 13th is lower than i run. try a 2s lipo,your motor and truck will last longer...
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:50 AM
  #5024  
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Well how can I tell the temp?
Well it automatically shuts off so I guess it's around 160ish.

I got 5 3s lips so any cheaper solution than buying 2s would be highly appreciated. I saw some reviews on youtube running on 3s and they seemed to have figured a way....

Nothing else that can be done?
Maintenance or 10 t not likely to help?
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:53 AM
  #5025  
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Originally Posted by nemmer475
Well how can I tell the temp?
Well it automatically shuts off so I guess it's around 160ish.

I got 5 3s lips so any cheaper solution than buying 2s would be highly appreciated. I saw some reviews on youtube running on 3s and they seemed to have figured a way....

Nothing else that can be done?
Maintenance or 10 t not likely to help?
check the mesh on your pinion/spur. If it is two tight it'll cause the motor to overheat, and premature front bearing failure.

Also lift the truck in the air and make sure the tires spin freely, that there is no binding in the driveshaft
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