16LikesHPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
12-14-2011, 11:51 AM
#6991
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Hinge-Pins-2
I'm 95% sure this is what you're talking about, but just wanted to check.
12-14-2011, 12:00 PM
#6992
Could be this one ?
http://m2cracing.com/product.sc;jses...&categoryId=-1
http://m2cracing.com/product.sc;jses...&categoryId=-1
Is this correct?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Hinge-Pins-2
I'm 95% sure this is what you're talking about, but just wanted to check.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Hinge-Pins-2
I'm 95% sure this is what you're talking about, but just wanted to check.
12-14-2011, 12:02 PM
#6993
Those are the inner pins, which you could get but not really necessary.
These are for outer, m2c racing Mugen. I don't have any experience with the m2c ones since I use the Mugen ones. By the way reason you get these, which you probably already know, is because all that's stoping the pins from falling out on the vorza are 2 tiny m3 screws.
These are for outer, m2c racing Mugen. I don't have any experience with the m2c ones since I use the Mugen ones. By the way reason you get these, which you probably already know, is because all that's stoping the pins from falling out on the vorza are 2 tiny m3 screws.
12-14-2011, 12:15 PM
#6994
Here's another question for ya fella's (sorry for so many out the gate) --
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-17T
Will this pinion fit alright?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-17T
Will this pinion fit alright?
12-14-2011, 12:19 PM
#6995
Those are the inner pins, which you could get but not really necessary.
These are for outer, m2c racing Mugen. I don't have any experience with the m2c ones since I use the Mugen ones. By the way reason you get these, which you probably already know, is because all that's stoping the pins from falling out on the vorza are 2 tiny m3 screws.
These are for outer, m2c racing Mugen. I don't have any experience with the m2c ones since I use the Mugen ones. By the way reason you get these, which you probably already know, is because all that's stoping the pins from falling out on the vorza are 2 tiny m3 screws.
12-14-2011, 12:21 PM
#6996
I probably should have looked over my vorza in much more greater detail and took a close look at the manual before jumping on and asking all kinds of questions. I apologize for that guys. I'm just terribly bored at work and piecing together an "order now" upgrade list. The people in the RCT community are pretty friggin helpful and I've never seen one member steer another wrong, so I figured I'd toss all kinds of stupid questions out there.
I appreciate you guys taking the time to post links and to discuss.
I appreciate you guys taking the time to post links and to discuss.
12-14-2011, 01:28 PM
#6998
Well even at retail I'm at $129.00 for the following:
RC screwz kit for D8
Mugen R Lower Suspension Shaft S w/Nuts X6/X6T/MSpec(2)
Hot Bodies HB Aluminum Steering Servo Horn #25
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Rear 112mm Shocks Wing Mnt)
Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm Pinion 17T
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Front 7075 Aluminum)
Mud guards
Front & rear Skids
That's the stuff I've pieced together so far.
I'm kind of thinking I'll hold out on the drive shafts unless the stock ones are literally brittle and suceptible to easily breaking & the lundsfords until I wreck the stock turnbuckles.
If you guys have any further suggestions: Love to hear em. Otherwise I'll check out the D8 thread you recommended to me Cain.
RC screwz kit for D8
Mugen R Lower Suspension Shaft S w/Nuts X6/X6T/MSpec(2)
Hot Bodies HB Aluminum Steering Servo Horn #25
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Rear 112mm Shocks Wing Mnt)
Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm Pinion 17T
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Front 7075 Aluminum)
Mud guards
Front & rear Skids
That's the stuff I've pieced together so far.
I'm kind of thinking I'll hold out on the drive shafts unless the stock ones are literally brittle and suceptible to easily breaking & the lundsfords until I wreck the stock turnbuckles.
If you guys have any further suggestions: Love to hear em. Otherwise I'll check out the D8 thread you recommended to me Cain.
12-14-2011, 01:53 PM
#6999
Hi guys,
I asked a few questions a couple of weeks ago when I was deciding to, or not to buy the Vorza.
I bought it
.
Former RC8be owner here frustrated with their diff leakage issues, weak wing mounts, and poorly designed castor bushings that kept coming out along with weak center braces.
I'm sure I'll get to know the querks of this car soon enough, but I'm not a RTR guy. I build my cars for the ground up. I know all is tight, right, and good to go that way. I have taken the Vorza out of the box, but I'm somewhat worried about running it. What needs loctite? What would you guys consider to be high failure items? How are the diffs? Anything I need to know??
I've done some reading in the thread and I'm confused easily in the HPI brands. I see talk about the D8, and the Ve8, and parts for this and that. I'm no noob to RC, but I'm surely a noob to HPI
.
Can you guys give me a good, acurate breakdown of what I need to do right out of the box, what I should have for spares, and what you would suggest I upgrade on weak points?
My application with this car will mainly be track run competitively. I'm not concerned about weight, I want durability.
Oh, furthermore --------
Pinions. What is the correct size pinion to run? I believe the stock is 15/50 (if I'm right without looking at the manual) --- I know the RC8be was a short shank 5mm Mod 1. This doesn't look to be the same size to me, what size is it?
Also, I'm used to running 5k,5k,3k on my diffs. What are you guys running in the vorza?
So far I have on order:
T-bone front pro bumper
T-bone rear skid plate
DE Racing mud guards
I had the mud guards on my RC8be & they were awesome.
I asked a few questions a couple of weeks ago when I was deciding to, or not to buy the Vorza.
I bought it
.Former RC8be owner here frustrated with their diff leakage issues, weak wing mounts, and poorly designed castor bushings that kept coming out along with weak center braces.
I'm sure I'll get to know the querks of this car soon enough, but I'm not a RTR guy. I build my cars for the ground up. I know all is tight, right, and good to go that way. I have taken the Vorza out of the box, but I'm somewhat worried about running it. What needs loctite? What would you guys consider to be high failure items? How are the diffs? Anything I need to know??
I've done some reading in the thread and I'm confused easily in the HPI brands. I see talk about the D8, and the Ve8, and parts for this and that. I'm no noob to RC, but I'm surely a noob to HPI
.Can you guys give me a good, acurate breakdown of what I need to do right out of the box, what I should have for spares, and what you would suggest I upgrade on weak points?
My application with this car will mainly be track run competitively. I'm not concerned about weight, I want durability.
Oh, furthermore --------
Pinions. What is the correct size pinion to run? I believe the stock is 15/50 (if I'm right without looking at the manual) --- I know the RC8be was a short shank 5mm Mod 1. This doesn't look to be the same size to me, what size is it?
Also, I'm used to running 5k,5k,3k on my diffs. What are you guys running in the vorza?
So far I have on order:
T-bone front pro bumper
T-bone rear skid plate
DE Racing mud guards
I had the mud guards on my RC8be & they were awesome.
12-14-2011, 03:00 PM
#7000
Well even at retail I'm at $129.00 for the following:
RC screwz kit for D8
Mugen R Lower Suspension Shaft S w/Nuts X6/X6T/MSpec(2)
Hot Bodies HB Aluminum Steering Servo Horn #25
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Rear 112mm Shocks Wing Mnt)
Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm Pinion 17T
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Front 7075 Aluminum)
Mud guards
Front & rear Skids
That's the stuff I've pieced together so far.
I'm kind of thinking I'll hold out on the drive shafts unless the stock ones are literally brittle and suceptible to easily breaking & the lundsfords until I wreck the stock turnbuckles.
If you guys have any further suggestions: Love to hear em. Otherwise I'll check out the D8 thread you recommended to me Cain.
RC screwz kit for D8
Mugen R Lower Suspension Shaft S w/Nuts X6/X6T/MSpec(2)
Hot Bodies HB Aluminum Steering Servo Horn #25
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Rear 112mm Shocks Wing Mnt)
Robinson Racing Xtra Hard 5mm Pinion 17T
Tekno R/C Shock Tower (D8B Front 7075 Aluminum)
Mud guards
Front & rear Skids
That's the stuff I've pieced together so far.
I'm kind of thinking I'll hold out on the drive shafts unless the stock ones are literally brittle and suceptible to easily breaking & the lundsfords until I wreck the stock turnbuckles.
If you guys have any further suggestions: Love to hear em. Otherwise I'll check out the D8 thread you recommended to me Cain.
I highly recommend you look on ebay for your parts, especially the Mugen pins. Look for people parting out an MBX6, I got a full set of those hingepins for like $15, which if I recall correctly are like $30+ on amain for not even the full set.
same thing goes with pinions. You will want a 3 pinion range I would say, especially if you were wanting more speed on your RC8BE at 19T/46T, that calculator I posted will come in handy.
As a screw kit, I personally would say go with TonyScrewz. Tony Screwz are excellent.
By the way, your sig says you have a 4PL, I just got one of those, excellent radio, prefer it so far to my previous spektrum units.
12-14-2011, 03:21 PM
#7001
I don't understand this, and neither did a tech from a-main and a tech from HPI wasn't sure what you guys mean by that statement.
On a funny side, the guy from A-main (if he could have seen me) would have looked at me like I had two heads when I mentioned racing the Vorza. He's like, "wow, nobody runs HPI around here". LMAO! I know this is a RTR vehicle and some changes need to be made, but maybe they should get out more LOL.
I know personally I'm a bit of a pioneer racing the Vorza next year around my parts in NY. Everyone pretty much runs Losi or Associated (with the exception of an Ofna here and there).
So..... what do you mean by the this?
The rims cut into the turnbuckles and the stock ones are strong so they snap or something? I'd wonder why the rims would be rubbing agains them if that is the case.... I would imagine the end point adjustment is too far if that's the case, although, I'm not sure if the stock transmitter is able to adjust for that or not yet.
12-14-2011, 03:29 PM
#7002
You will want to get the longer rear shocks for the longer tower, or maybe you can go with longer ends?
I highly recommend you look on ebay for your parts, especially the Mugen pins. Look for people parting out an MBX6, I got a full set of those hingepins for like $15, which if I recall correctly are like $30+ on amain for not even the full set.
same thing goes with pinions. You will want a 3 pinion range I would say, especially if you were wanting more speed on your RC8BE at 19T/46T, that calculator I posted will come in handy.
As a screw kit, I personally would say go with TonyScrewz. Tony Screwz are excellent.
By the way, your sig says you have a 4PL, I just got one of those, excellent radio, prefer it so far to my previous spektrum units.
I highly recommend you look on ebay for your parts, especially the Mugen pins. Look for people parting out an MBX6, I got a full set of those hingepins for like $15, which if I recall correctly are like $30+ on amain for not even the full set.
same thing goes with pinions. You will want a 3 pinion range I would say, especially if you were wanting more speed on your RC8BE at 19T/46T, that calculator I posted will come in handy.
As a screw kit, I personally would say go with TonyScrewz. Tony Screwz are excellent.
By the way, your sig says you have a 4PL, I just got one of those, excellent radio, prefer it so far to my previous spektrum units.
. Im going to take a look at that calculator to see what I'm facing with 17/48 on 2200kv / 4s.
I've heard good things about the Tony Screws kit. I'll have to look into that.
Seems that Ebay is the way to go on suggestions. I'm surprised because it seemed e-bay was retail bay when I was last on there (long time ago). I'll take a look tonight.
12-14-2011, 03:30 PM
#7003
I don't understand this, and neither did a tech from a-main and a tech from HPI wasn't sure what you guys mean by that statement.
So..... what do you mean by the this? The rims cut into the turnbuckles and the stock ones are strong so they snap or something? I'd wonder why the rims would be rubbing agains them if that is the case.... I would imagine the end point adjustment is too far if that's the case, although, I'm not sure if the stock transmitter is able to adjust for that or not yet.
So..... what do you mean by the this?
The rims cut into the turnbuckles and the stock ones are strong so they snap or something? I'd wonder why the rims would be rubbing agains them if that is the case.... I would imagine the end point adjustment is too far if that's the case, although, I'm not sure if the stock transmitter is able to adjust for that or not yet.
12-14-2011, 04:41 PM
#7004
The plastic tie rod ends that attach to the steering knuckles get cut into and notched by the wheels when turned at full lock...they will eventually fail. There are some tie rod ends that have a "bend" in them to allow full steering throw without the wheel interference. Shortening your radio's steering EPAs is an option for some, but it's not really a fix since it limits your steering throw. These are hard to find. I had to order some from the UK...but I think you can get some from Mugen or Xray that will work just the same. Very inexpensive part...it is a must do mod IMO.
12-14-2011, 04:46 PM
#7005
Associated RC8 rod ends have this bend in them from what I am seeing here:
and here:
Funny, I actually popped a set of these as I didn't relize at the time I put them on in the wrong direction.
I am not sure what length we need though, may want to ask an AE guy for length and compare. Report back what you find. I do have a pit box full of ends, I'll take a look later tonight to see if I have any and will compare if I do.
I did find the mugen ones too, but you only get two curved ones from what I could see in a pack and the AE ones you get 4 and are cheaper.
So you have a 2200Kv motor, why was I thinking you were going to use a 1900Kv Tekin lol. your gearing should work out then or be very close since it is a lot more powerful than the Tekin. Just keep in mind if later on you want to do a Tekno conversion, you will need a motor without those fins I believe the vorza comes with, or at least, not as wild.
The big sell on ebay is that you can find people parting out vehicles and buy the stuff you need a lot cheaper in a way than just getting it in a retail bag, and it will be new too.
and here:
Funny, I actually popped a set of these as I didn't relize at the time I put them on in the wrong direction.
I am not sure what length we need though, may want to ask an AE guy for length and compare. Report back what you find. I do have a pit box full of ends, I'll take a look later tonight to see if I have any and will compare if I do.
I did find the mugen ones too, but you only get two curved ones from what I could see in a pack and the AE ones you get 4 and are cheaper.
So you have a 2200Kv motor, why was I thinking you were going to use a 1900Kv Tekin lol. your gearing should work out then or be very close since it is a lot more powerful than the Tekin. Just keep in mind if later on you want to do a Tekno conversion, you will need a motor without those fins I believe the vorza comes with, or at least, not as wild.
The big sell on ebay is that you can find people parting out vehicles and buy the stuff you need a lot cheaper in a way than just getting it in a retail bag, and it will be new too.