HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
#5791
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would go to Ebay and start bidding, you can get some great deals.
Spare parts that I like have in stock:
get some front drive shafts, you can use them on the rear also
spare center shafts
front and rear suspension arms
HBS 67404 universal shaft rebuild kit
inner and out suspension pins front and rear
front hub & spindle set
rear hub set
aluminum sevo horn
should get some spare pinions like 16, 17 or a 18. If it's hot where you're going stick with the stock 15 or maybe a 16.
spare wheel nuts (sound dumb until your day ends because you lost one)
full set of spare bearings, I would go to Avid bearing and stock up, $1.00 each.
I like single 4s packs, I buy mine at hobbypartz.com. My favorite is the Gen Ace 40c 5000mah hardcase packs for $66, the Blue 4s aren't bad for $50
For a good bashing tire that lasts try Pro-line Knuckles. They're a good all terrain tire.
Fluids: depends on what you use, I use 5k & 3k oil.
get a good set of allens like http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-15-20-25-30mm
I probably missed something, easy way to make up a list is go to amainhobbies.com and type in vorza, most of the parts for it will pop up, about 5 pages worth. Hope this helps a little, if I missed something I'm sure someone with chime in. If you have any more questions fire away! One more thing I would get a spare servo, I found a great deal at hobbyking.com for $23, it works really good and man can't beat the price. I'll find the part#. If you want you could get a nice Savox or Hitec, both make great products.
Here's that servo I was telling you about, it works great!!!http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12451
Spare parts that I like have in stock:
get some front drive shafts, you can use them on the rear also
spare center shafts
front and rear suspension arms
HBS 67404 universal shaft rebuild kit
inner and out suspension pins front and rear
front hub & spindle set
rear hub set
aluminum sevo horn
should get some spare pinions like 16, 17 or a 18. If it's hot where you're going stick with the stock 15 or maybe a 16.
spare wheel nuts (sound dumb until your day ends because you lost one)
full set of spare bearings, I would go to Avid bearing and stock up, $1.00 each.
I like single 4s packs, I buy mine at hobbypartz.com. My favorite is the Gen Ace 40c 5000mah hardcase packs for $66, the Blue 4s aren't bad for $50
For a good bashing tire that lasts try Pro-line Knuckles. They're a good all terrain tire.
Fluids: depends on what you use, I use 5k & 3k oil.
get a good set of allens like http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-15-20-25-30mm
I probably missed something, easy way to make up a list is go to amainhobbies.com and type in vorza, most of the parts for it will pop up, about 5 pages worth. Hope this helps a little, if I missed something I'm sure someone with chime in. If you have any more questions fire away! One more thing I would get a spare servo, I found a great deal at hobbyking.com for $23, it works really good and man can't beat the price. I'll find the part#. If you want you could get a nice Savox or Hitec, both make great products.
Here's that servo I was telling you about, it works great!!!http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12451
Still need to figure out what I'm going to do with my tie rod ends that are broke!!!
#5792
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
#5795
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would go to Ebay and start bidding, you can get some great deals.
Spare parts that I like have in stock:
get some front drive shafts, you can use them on the rear also
spare center shafts
front and rear suspension arms
HBS 67404 universal shaft rebuild kit
inner and out suspension pins front and rear
front hub & spindle set
rear hub set
aluminum sevo horn
should get some spare pinions like 16, 17 or a 18. If it's hot where you're going stick with the stock 15 or maybe a 16.
spare wheel nuts (sound dumb until your day ends because you lost one)
full set of spare bearings, I would go to Avid bearing and stock up, $1.00 each.
I like single 4s packs, I buy mine at hobbypartz.com. My favorite is the Gen Ace 40c 5000mah hardcase packs for $66, the Blue 4s aren't bad for $50
For a good bashing tire that lasts try Pro-line Knuckles. They're a good all terrain tire.
Fluids: depends on what you use, I use 5k & 3k oil.
get a good set of allens like
I probably missed something, easy way to make up a list is go to amainhobbies.com and type in vorza, most of the parts for it will pop up, about 5 pages worth. Hope this helps a little, if I missed something I'm sure someone with chime in. If you have any more questions fire away! One more thing I would get a spare servo, I found a great deal at hobbyking.com for $23, it works really good and man can't beat the price. I'll find the part#. If you want you could get a nice Savox or Hitec, both make great products.
Spare parts that I like have in stock:
get some front drive shafts, you can use them on the rear also
spare center shafts
front and rear suspension arms
HBS 67404 universal shaft rebuild kit
inner and out suspension pins front and rear
front hub & spindle set
rear hub set
aluminum sevo horn
should get some spare pinions like 16, 17 or a 18. If it's hot where you're going stick with the stock 15 or maybe a 16.
spare wheel nuts (sound dumb until your day ends because you lost one)
full set of spare bearings, I would go to Avid bearing and stock up, $1.00 each.
I like single 4s packs, I buy mine at hobbypartz.com. My favorite is the Gen Ace 40c 5000mah hardcase packs for $66, the Blue 4s aren't bad for $50
For a good bashing tire that lasts try Pro-line Knuckles. They're a good all terrain tire.
Fluids: depends on what you use, I use 5k & 3k oil.
get a good set of allens like
I probably missed something, easy way to make up a list is go to amainhobbies.com and type in vorza, most of the parts for it will pop up, about 5 pages worth. Hope this helps a little, if I missed something I'm sure someone with chime in. If you have any more questions fire away! One more thing I would get a spare servo, I found a great deal at hobbyking.com for $23, it works really good and man can't beat the price. I'll find the part#. If you want you could get a nice Savox or Hitec, both make great products.
#5798
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I used to go out to Battlefront ( good atmosphere ) every once in a while. Only to practice, but never raced. I'm usually only in town for weeks or a couple months at a time though. I was gonna go check out Proving Grounds, but never made it out there. Where do you go?
#5800
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will have to do some extrapolating since it is not exactly apples to apples.
Prior to the conversion I was able to get the car to pretty much handle how I wanted it to, but it involved trade-offs. I had to choose a gearing that was not what I wanted simply because of the overheating caused by gearing in a lower range. A heavier car means more moving mass and higher stresses/temperatures associated with keeping it under control at higher speeds.
Being so much heavier, you can't "dance" it around the track and have to be much more aggressive with the throttle/brakes. But as long as you drive it as such this is not necessarily a problem from a pure handling standpoint. You will likely break more things and require more powerful supporting systems (motor, servos etc), but if they are sized and set up properly it should not be an issue.
Notably, the COG is lower and more centralized. I never had the previous chassis on the same tires, but even on the new gripper rubber, areas of the track that were prone to traction rolling (the right turn at the end of the front straight headed around to the sweeper) were not a problem even at higher speeds. Plus it flies a bit more level over jumps.
There is quite a bit of chassis flex in the rear end of the kit, but it didn't appear to cause any issues with excessive movement affecting the gear mesh as far as I can tell. I will be keeping an eye out though just in case.![Cool](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/cool.gif)
The mechanical braking allowed by the chassis was excellent. Had all the brake I wanted without any of the motor overheating issues. Being able to set front / rear brake bias is really cool. I can dial up the overall brake while dialing back the front brake so the front end never locks up removing steering. I found it useful for the steeper off camber turns that require heavy braking leading into them.![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Overall the kit just feels good. It is not a night and day difference as the character of the original still shines through...and that makes it feel comfortable since that is what I am used to, but it is enough of an upgrade to certainly justify the price...especially if you have already invested in an entire pit box full of spare vorza parts.
I give it an A+.![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
Prior to the conversion I was able to get the car to pretty much handle how I wanted it to, but it involved trade-offs. I had to choose a gearing that was not what I wanted simply because of the overheating caused by gearing in a lower range. A heavier car means more moving mass and higher stresses/temperatures associated with keeping it under control at higher speeds.
Being so much heavier, you can't "dance" it around the track and have to be much more aggressive with the throttle/brakes. But as long as you drive it as such this is not necessarily a problem from a pure handling standpoint. You will likely break more things and require more powerful supporting systems (motor, servos etc), but if they are sized and set up properly it should not be an issue.
Notably, the COG is lower and more centralized. I never had the previous chassis on the same tires, but even on the new gripper rubber, areas of the track that were prone to traction rolling (the right turn at the end of the front straight headed around to the sweeper) were not a problem even at higher speeds. Plus it flies a bit more level over jumps.
There is quite a bit of chassis flex in the rear end of the kit, but it didn't appear to cause any issues with excessive movement affecting the gear mesh as far as I can tell. I will be keeping an eye out though just in case.
![Cool](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/cool.gif)
The mechanical braking allowed by the chassis was excellent. Had all the brake I wanted without any of the motor overheating issues. Being able to set front / rear brake bias is really cool. I can dial up the overall brake while dialing back the front brake so the front end never locks up removing steering. I found it useful for the steeper off camber turns that require heavy braking leading into them.
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Overall the kit just feels good. It is not a night and day difference as the character of the original still shines through...and that makes it feel comfortable since that is what I am used to, but it is enough of an upgrade to certainly justify the price...especially if you have already invested in an entire pit box full of spare vorza parts.
I give it an A+.
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
#5801
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Did you find that on Ebay?
I actually got mine at the local RC place. It's worth going to your local RC place because they have the tracks. Plus my guy is very reasonable on prices and makes sure everything you buy works and hooks its up for you!!! Can't get that from the inernet guys.....
I used to go out to Battlefront ( good atmosphere ) every once in a while. Only to practice, but never raced. I'm usually only in town for weeks or a couple months at a time though. I was gonna go check out Proving Grounds, but never made it out there. Where do you go?
I actually got mine at the local RC place. It's worth going to your local RC place because they have the tracks. Plus my guy is very reasonable on prices and makes sure everything you buy works and hooks its up for you!!! Can't get that from the inernet guys.....
I used to go out to Battlefront ( good atmosphere ) every once in a while. Only to practice, but never raced. I'm usually only in town for weeks or a couple months at a time though. I was gonna go check out Proving Grounds, but never made it out there. Where do you go?
#5802
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts! A+ I love hearing that. Tekno says it jumps better without the rear brace. You said it had quite a bit of chassis flex in the rear, have you thought about putting a rear brace on or do you feel it's fine the way it is? Man I'm really excited about racing my T buggy next weekend, now I know for sure it's a very capable racer. Now if I can just get the dummy (me) holding the tx to do a good job! LOL
#5803
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Did you find that on Ebay?
I used to go out to Battlefront ( good atmosphere ) every once in a while. Only to practice, but never raced. I'm usually only in town for weeks or a couple months at a time though. I was gonna go check out Proving Grounds, but never made it out there. Where do you go?
I used to go out to Battlefront ( good atmosphere ) every once in a while. Only to practice, but never raced. I'm usually only in town for weeks or a couple months at a time though. I was gonna go check out Proving Grounds, but never made it out there. Where do you go?
#5804
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts! A+ I love hearing that. Tekno says it jumps better without the rear brace. You said it had quite a bit of chassis flex in the rear, have you thought about putting a rear brace on or do you feel it's fine the way it is? Man I'm really excited about racing my T buggy next weekend, now I know for sure it's a very capable racer. Now if I can just get the dummy (me) holding the tx to do a good job! LOL
#5805
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have experimented with bracing off the rear/center diff as well as bracing off the rear diff to the rear wire guide hole. Neither added much reinforcing as the angle is either too flat or too steep. You really need an angle in the 30 - 45 deg range to brace it off properly...just too much stuff in the way to get that angle. I am sure the flex contributes to its' handling in some way, but I am not sure I can tell if it makes things better or worse. It very well could be a reason why it flies better now. I am more concerned about how the gear mesh moves around as a result. So far the gears are doing fine...keeping an eye on it though.