Electric 1/8th Buggy....why so heavy?
08-20-2009, 06:33 AM
#46
You guys should also keep in mind that weight and durability also go hand and hand. I don't agree with trying to make a 6 lb 1/8th brushless car but you also shouldn't carry around any un-necessary weight either. The more weight the more impact it will have on durability when you crash. Years ago I made one of the first Lite-Race T-Maxx's. I called it LRM1 (Lite Race Maxx 1). Basically I got rid of as much un-necessary weight while not sacrificing durability. I actually improved it where I could. I ended up with a 7 lb 4 oz T-Maxx that could be beaten to death and rarely break. It also had a lot more motor in it too. It started a LiteRace Maxx craze.....LOL 
Think of it like this. Take a 8 lb bowling ball and shoot it at a wall at 25mph. Now do the same thing with a 12 lb bowling bowl. What do you think will do more damage....hahaha
These electric conversions are based off their nitro counterparts. The suspension is designed to work with the car weighing what it would in nitro race ready form. You should really build your electric conversion to weigh about the same. If you go too light or too heavy it'll handle like crap. It would take a complete designed from the ground up car to have anything in that 6 lb range. None of the Mfg's will do that (at least not at this time).
If you want to build a light weight conversion then you need to start with a light weight nitro car (MBX6, XB808, MP9, etc). Build the car to weigh the same and the suspension will work. RBMike's E-MBX6 is a perfect example as it weighs the same. The MBX6 in nitro form with the installed available lightweight hopups from Mugen weighs around 7 lbs 2 oz's to 7 lbs 6 oz's (depends on tires, motor/pipe choice and body). Without the lightweight options it'll weigh another 4-6 oz's heavier. Mugen makes 6 different front springs, 8 different rear springs and 6 different F&R sway bars to set up the car. But none of them would work "well" if the car weighed under 7 lbs or if it weighed over 8-1/2 lbs.
Just my $0.02
Think of it like this. Take a 8 lb bowling ball and shoot it at a wall at 25mph. Now do the same thing with a 12 lb bowling bowl. What do you think will do more damage....hahaha
These electric conversions are based off their nitro counterparts. The suspension is designed to work with the car weighing what it would in nitro race ready form. You should really build your electric conversion to weigh about the same. If you go too light or too heavy it'll handle like crap. It would take a complete designed from the ground up car to have anything in that 6 lb range. None of the Mfg's will do that (at least not at this time).
If you want to build a light weight conversion then you need to start with a light weight nitro car (MBX6, XB808, MP9, etc). Build the car to weigh the same and the suspension will work. RBMike's E-MBX6 is a perfect example as it weighs the same. The MBX6 in nitro form with the installed available lightweight hopups from Mugen weighs around 7 lbs 2 oz's to 7 lbs 6 oz's (depends on tires, motor/pipe choice and body). Without the lightweight options it'll weigh another 4-6 oz's heavier. Mugen makes 6 different front springs, 8 different rear springs and 6 different F&R sway bars to set up the car. But none of them would work "well" if the car weighed under 7 lbs or if it weighed over 8-1/2 lbs.
Just my $0.02
08-20-2009, 01:29 PM
#48
You guys should also keep in mind that weight and durability also go hand and hand. I don't agree with trying to make a 6 lb 1/8th brushless car but you also shouldn't carry around any un-necessary weight either. The more weight the more impact it will have on durability when you crash. Years ago I made one of the first Lite-Race T-Maxx's. I called it LRM1 (Lite Race Maxx 1). Basically I got rid of as much un-necessary weight while not sacrificing durability. I actually improved it where I could. I ended up with a 7 lb 4 oz T-Maxx that could be beaten to death and rarely break. It also had a lot more motor in it too. It started a LiteRace Maxx craze.....LOL
Think of it like this. Take a 8 lb bowling ball and shoot it at a wall at 25mph. Now do the same thing with a 12 lb bowling bowl. What do you think will do more damage....hahaha
These electric conversions are based off their nitro counterparts. The suspension is designed to work with the car weighing what it would in nitro race ready form. You should really build your electric conversion to weigh about the same. If you go too light or too heavy it'll handle like crap. It would take a complete designed from the ground up car to have anything in that 6 lb range. None of the Mfg's will do that (at least not at this time).
If you want to build a light weight conversion then you need to start with a light weight nitro car (MBX6, XB808, MP9, etc). Build the car to weigh the same and the suspension will work. RBMike's E-MBX6 is a perfect example as it weighs the same. The MBX6 in nitro form with the installed available lightweight hopups from Mugen weighs around 7 lbs 2 oz's to 7 lbs 6 oz's (depends on tires, motor/pipe choice and body). Without the lightweight options it'll weigh another 4-6 oz's heavier. Mugen makes 6 different front springs, 8 different rear springs and 6 different F&R sway bars to set up the car. But none of them would work "well" if the car weighed under 7 lbs or if it weighed over 8-1/2 lbs.
Just my $0.02
Think of it like this. Take a 8 lb bowling ball and shoot it at a wall at 25mph. Now do the same thing with a 12 lb bowling bowl. What do you think will do more damage....hahaha
These electric conversions are based off their nitro counterparts. The suspension is designed to work with the car weighing what it would in nitro race ready form. You should really build your electric conversion to weigh about the same. If you go too light or too heavy it'll handle like crap. It would take a complete designed from the ground up car to have anything in that 6 lb range. None of the Mfg's will do that (at least not at this time).
If you want to build a light weight conversion then you need to start with a light weight nitro car (MBX6, XB808, MP9, etc). Build the car to weigh the same and the suspension will work. RBMike's E-MBX6 is a perfect example as it weighs the same. The MBX6 in nitro form with the installed available lightweight hopups from Mugen weighs around 7 lbs 2 oz's to 7 lbs 6 oz's (depends on tires, motor/pipe choice and body). Without the lightweight options it'll weigh another 4-6 oz's heavier. Mugen makes 6 different front springs, 8 different rear springs and 6 different F&R sway bars to set up the car. But none of them would work "well" if the car weighed under 7 lbs or if it weighed over 8-1/2 lbs.
Just my $0.02
08-20-2009, 01:57 PM
#49
[QUOTE=TonysScrews;6231311]
If you go too light or too heavy it'll handle like crap.
If you want to build a light weight conversion then you need to start with a light weight nitro car (MBX6, XB808, MP9, etc). Build the car to weigh the same and the suspension will work. [QUOTE]
I agree with this, but I disagree with your bowling ball analogy.
What breaks on your car in a crash? A-arms, hinge plates, steering knuckle etc. All things that normally are not altered to lower the weight. When an 8.5Lb car catches a front wheel on a pipe end or wall board, it is far more likely to break an A-arm than when the same car at the same speed lightened to say 7.2Lbs hits the same object. Purely a matter of mass in physics. The Bowling ball analogy is actually correct if your talking about breaking the target but not the ball. I would rather be hit by a 1/10 scale than an 1/8th.
If you go too light or too heavy it'll handle like crap.
If you want to build a light weight conversion then you need to start with a light weight nitro car (MBX6, XB808, MP9, etc). Build the car to weigh the same and the suspension will work. [QUOTE]
I agree with this, but I disagree with your bowling ball analogy.
What breaks on your car in a crash? A-arms, hinge plates, steering knuckle etc. All things that normally are not altered to lower the weight. When an 8.5Lb car catches a front wheel on a pipe end or wall board, it is far more likely to break an A-arm than when the same car at the same speed lightened to say 7.2Lbs hits the same object. Purely a matter of mass in physics. The Bowling ball analogy is actually correct if your talking about breaking the target but not the ball. I would rather be hit by a 1/10 scale than an 1/8th.
08-20-2009, 02:03 PM
#50
I think Jammin' missed the mark when they made the CRT.5, They should have made a 1/10th scale truggy using stadum truck tires instead.
I still can't figure out why a 4wd stadium truck was never made by one of the big manufacturers. I think with brushless and a 2s Lipo they would be the fastest thing on the track and easier to drive than 4wd buggy... more newb friendly. And back to the subject of this thread they would be right around the 5lb mark.
I still can't figure out why a 4wd stadium truck was never made by one of the big manufacturers. I think with brushless and a 2s Lipo they would be the fastest thing on the track and easier to drive than 4wd buggy... more newb friendly. And back to the subject of this thread they would be right around the 5lb mark.
I would buy a 1/10th scale 4wd stadium truck... if someone made one! 2 or 3S and a 540 size motor. I think 3S with a 3000 rpm/v motor would be perfect.
08-20-2009, 02:27 PM
#51
Only downside is most hobby shops aren't likely to carry the parts on the wall, so you have to mail order everything. At least its so far as strong as my Slash.
08-20-2009, 02:42 PM
#52
Reading through this it looks like many are missing the fact that a 25% increase in size is naturally going to be almost twices as heavy just because volume is proportional to the cube.
A typical 4wd 1/10 buggy that is 3.5-4.0lb would weigh between 6.8 and 7.8lb if everything was scaled up 25%. That is just about what current 1/8 buggies already weigh.
My 8ight is no heavier than 7.3lb rtr with a 5000 mah 4s pack. Soft case lipos, the right tire/rim selection, plastic spur, titanium upgrades, and every little thing that doesn't affect the performance or durability of the car have been considered.
A typical 4wd 1/10 buggy that is 3.5-4.0lb would weigh between 6.8 and 7.8lb if everything was scaled up 25%. That is just about what current 1/8 buggies already weigh.
My 8ight is no heavier than 7.3lb rtr with a 5000 mah 4s pack. Soft case lipos, the right tire/rim selection, plastic spur, titanium upgrades, and every little thing that doesn't affect the performance or durability of the car have been considered.
08-21-2009, 01:02 PM
#53
missing the point
Ya after reading this thread it seems most ppl have missed the topic.
Although its nice to hear that there are far lighter 1/8ths out there I am alos very disapointed to know Associated isnt 1 of them.
My RC8 FT Limited started out at 8 lbs 7 oz with a MMM 2200/4S setup
I spent wayyy to much $$ getting it down to 7 lbs 14 oz
And now after switcing up a bit its at 7 lb 11 oz with tekin 1900 buggy motor and 5S Lipo's.
My reason's for goin through the effort I did was, when I first started the 1/8 E adventure I /we ( my buddy Jube) were breaking shit left and right.
It also handled like a dump truck with a load of bricks in it. It would go plenty fast after about half the straight but you couldnt stop it with all 4 wheels locked up.
Since the "diet" its much easier to drive and reacts so much better to driver input its actually fun to drive.
As for comparison, i can run the same exact lap times with both my B44 and RC8 on a really tight backyard track.
Although its nice to hear that there are far lighter 1/8ths out there I am alos very disapointed to know Associated isnt 1 of them.
My RC8 FT Limited started out at 8 lbs 7 oz with a MMM 2200/4S setup
I spent wayyy to much $$ getting it down to 7 lbs 14 oz
And now after switcing up a bit its at 7 lb 11 oz with tekin 1900 buggy motor and 5S Lipo's.
My reason's for goin through the effort I did was, when I first started the 1/8 E adventure I /we ( my buddy Jube) were breaking shit left and right.
It also handled like a dump truck with a load of bricks in it. It would go plenty fast after about half the straight but you couldnt stop it with all 4 wheels locked up.
Since the "diet" its much easier to drive and reacts so much better to driver input its actually fun to drive.
As for comparison, i can run the same exact lap times with both my B44 and RC8 on a really tight backyard track.
08-21-2009, 01:23 PM
#54
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...awk-xb-xt.html
Only downside is most hobby shops aren't likely to carry the parts on the wall, so you have to mail order everything. At least its so far as strong as my Slash.
Only downside is most hobby shops aren't likely to carry the parts on the wall, so you have to mail order everything. At least its so far as strong as my Slash.
08-21-2009, 02:06 PM
#55
Ya after reading this thread it seems most ppl have missed the topic.
Although its nice to hear that there are far lighter 1/8ths out there I am alos very disapointed to know Associated isnt 1 of them.
My RC8 FT Limited started out at 8 lbs 7 oz with a MMM 2200/4S setup
I spent wayyy to much $$ getting it down to 7 lbs 14 oz
And now after switcing up a bit its at 7 lb 11 oz with tekin 1900 buggy motor and 5S Lipo's.
My reason's for goin through the effort I did was, when I first started the 1/8 E adventure I /we ( my buddy Jube) were breaking shit left and right.
It also handled like a dump truck with a load of bricks in it. It would go plenty fast after about half the straight but you couldnt stop it with all 4 wheels locked up.
Since the "diet" its much easier to drive and reacts so much better to driver input its actually fun to drive.
As for comparison, i can run the same exact lap times with both my B44 and RC8 on a really tight backyard track.
Although its nice to hear that there are far lighter 1/8ths out there I am alos very disapointed to know Associated isnt 1 of them.
My RC8 FT Limited started out at 8 lbs 7 oz with a MMM 2200/4S setup
I spent wayyy to much $$ getting it down to 7 lbs 14 oz
And now after switcing up a bit its at 7 lb 11 oz with tekin 1900 buggy motor and 5S Lipo's.
My reason's for goin through the effort I did was, when I first started the 1/8 E adventure I /we ( my buddy Jube) were breaking shit left and right.
It also handled like a dump truck with a load of bricks in it. It would go plenty fast after about half the straight but you couldnt stop it with all 4 wheels locked up.
Since the "diet" its much easier to drive and reacts so much better to driver input its actually fun to drive.
As for comparison, i can run the same exact lap times with both my B44 and RC8 on a really tight backyard track.
The worst part was when I put my completely stock 2.0 together and it was only 20g heavier than my RC8. That pissed me off! LOL
08-21-2009, 03:16 PM
#56
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...awk-xb-xt.html
Only downside is most hobby shops aren't likely to carry the parts on the wall, so you have to mail order everything. At least its so far as strong as my Slash.
Only downside is most hobby shops aren't likely to carry the parts on the wall, so you have to mail order everything. At least its so far as strong as my Slash.
08-21-2009, 06:03 PM
#57
The body is actually not bad, but the printed paint scheme and the Cadillac grille make it pretty damn ugly.
I'm hoping to get a clear version or mount some sort of Jconcepts body on it. Got a more truggy'ish molded wing coming in too. I had it out on the track a few days ago and it was doing the same jumps my 1/8th buggy was doing without breaking anything. But its a bit too light on its feet, my buggy felt way more stable and planted.
08-21-2009, 08:13 PM
#58
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/catalog/i...rrowhawkxt.jpg
The body is actually not bad, but the printed paint scheme and the Cadillac grille make it pretty damn ugly. I'm hoping to get a clear version or mount some sort of Jconcepts body on it. Got a more truggy'ish molded wing coming in too. I had it out on the track a few days ago and it was doing the same jumps my 1/8th buggy was doing without breaking anything. But its a bit too light on its feet, my buggy felt way more stable and planted.
The body is actually not bad, but the printed paint scheme and the Cadillac grille make it pretty damn ugly.
I'm hoping to get a clear version or mount some sort of Jconcepts body on it. Got a more truggy'ish molded wing coming in too. I had it out on the track a few days ago and it was doing the same jumps my 1/8th buggy was doing without breaking anything. But its a bit too light on its feet, my buggy felt way more stable and planted.
08-22-2009, 07:08 AM
#59
When an 8.5Lb car catches a front wheel on a pipe end or wall board, it is far more likely to break an A-arm than when the same car at the same speed lightened to say 7.2Lbs hits the same object. Purely a matter of mass in physics. The Bowling ball analogy is actually correct if your talking about breaking the target but not the ball. I would rather be hit by a 1/10 scale than an 1/8th.
(I'm just glad it wasn't my leg ...LOL )Basically what you said about the heavier car breaking stuff easier than the lighter car is what I meant with the bowling ball thing (even though you're correct about the ball damaging the target not itself...LOL). It's basically what we learned with the T-Maxx's. All the aluiminum arms, towers, etc did was just make the truck heavier and burn a hole in your wallet. Lighten it up to the lower 7 lb range and the stock plastic arms were nearly unbreakable.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
