Jammin SCRT10 Thread
11-29-2010, 03:40 AM
#8041
11-29-2010, 03:47 AM
#8042
I'm running a standard SCRT10 with the MM Pro ESC and Castle Shortcourse motor geared with a 15t pinion, what pinion should I use for a 17.5 motor? Wanting to race and the local fun police won't let any 4wd CORR's run over a 17.5 as the 2wd CORR guys have some sheep station racers who cry about anything and everything 
11-29-2010, 04:28 AM
#8043
Although the Novak Havoc Pro SC w/ Ballistic 4.5 550 is $200 shipped on tower w/ the coupon if your part of the super saver club. Thats a really good deal...
11-29-2010, 05:26 AM
#8044
I'm running a standard SCRT10 with the MM Pro ESC and Castle Shortcourse motor geared with a 15t pinion, what pinion should I use for a 17.5 motor? Wanting to race and the local fun police won't let any 4wd CORR's run over a 17.5 as the 2wd CORR guys have some sheep station racers who cry about anything and everything
With a KV of 2200 a 17.5 motor would have to run a 29t pinion to match the speeds of a 8.5 540 or the 4.5 550 motor. If we assume that your Castle Shortcourse motor is a 3800 Kv then to match your 15t pinion you would need 25t to get the same speeds with a 17.5. You would need a high torque rotor to help with temperature management.
How are your temps on the Castle SCT system? Are you runnning 2s Lipos?
11-29-2010, 06:42 AM
#8045
Here are some pictures of my updated SCRT10 
Also I figured out a little bumper setup for my truck... It's not as big as the stock setup, but I like the look of it. I was running just the little bumper from the CRT.5 with no problems, but was wrenching yesterday an came up with this
OFNA# 40842 and 40921
Also I figured out a little bumper setup for my truck... It's not as big as the stock setup, but I like the look of it. I was running just the little bumper from the CRT.5 with no problems, but was wrenching yesterday an came up with this
OFNA# 40842 and 40921
11-29-2010, 07:14 AM
#8046
It was on CC's website. There was 20% off until Sunday night, then type in military30 to receive an addt'l 30% off.... It took the MMP down to $75+ shipping.
Although the Novak Havoc Pro SC w/ Ballistic 4.5 550 is $200 shipped on tower w/ the coupon if your part of the super saver club. Thats a really good deal...
Although the Novak Havoc Pro SC w/ Ballistic 4.5 550 is $200 shipped on tower w/ the coupon if your part of the super saver club. Thats a really good deal...
11-29-2010, 07:25 AM
#8047
Here are some pictures of my updated SCRT10
Also I figured out a little bumper setup for my truck... It's not as big as the stock setup, but I like the look of it. I was running just the little bumper from the CRT.5 with no problems, but was wrenching yesterday an came up with this
OFNA# 40842 and 40921
Also I figured out a little bumper setup for my truck... It's not as big as the stock setup, but I like the look of it. I was running just the little bumper from the CRT.5 with no problems, but was wrenching yesterday an came up with this
OFNA# 40842 and 40921
WOW, thanks for the pictures of the new RC-Monster chassis. I've been holding off and wanted to wait to see one built on it before I make the purchase. I am putting in an order today now for sure. How does it drive over the stock one?
11-29-2010, 09:59 AM
#8049
Thanks for the help.
11-29-2010, 10:27 AM
#8050
These early BL systems were designed to operate with NiMh packs. In addition, your motor may have a bonded, rather than sintered, rotor which is definitely not advised for racing.
These items are simply not usable in heavy 4x4 racing vehicles. The new 550 system will solve these problems.
These items are simply not usable in heavy 4x4 racing vehicles. The new 550 system will solve these problems.
The motor isn't glitching, it is actually thermaling (Not sure if thats a word) as the blue indicator light is on when the truck shuts off and Novak's website states that is the thermal light.
It has been shutting off right around the 4 min mark and will not run for 1-2 min.
The thing that is throwing me for a loop is the motor temps at 100-120* and the ESC temps at 100* which seems low. I'm running the stock 13t pinion and stock spur w/ an 8.5 motor. I'm wondering if I need to gear up or use a 6.5 motor w/ the 13T pinion. The way I see it, with the motor/pinion I'm running now is like running a car in 1st gear at 50mph... Am I looking at it the correct way?
Thanks again for all the help guys. And I do have a 550 system on the way which is probably the fix.... I'm just at the curious point and would like to figure out what the problem is for future reference.
It has been shutting off right around the 4 min mark and will not run for 1-2 min.
The thing that is throwing me for a loop is the motor temps at 100-120* and the ESC temps at 100* which seems low. I'm running the stock 13t pinion and stock spur w/ an 8.5 motor. I'm wondering if I need to gear up or use a 6.5 motor w/ the 13T pinion. The way I see it, with the motor/pinion I'm running now is like running a car in 1st gear at 50mph... Am I looking at it the correct way?
Thanks again for all the help guys. And I do have a 550 system on the way which is probably the fix.... I'm just at the curious point and would like to figure out what the problem is for future reference.
11-29-2010, 10:33 AM
#8051
Can someone post the proper part number for the pro-line wheels. Im a bit confused with which part number is for the Slash Fronts.....seems the same as the rear. Im so new at this that its retarded. Just dont want to make the wrong purchase. I actually am wanting the rims with Bow Tie SC tires so if someone can post a tower hobbies link I will be in debt to you!
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Here are the ones on Tower Hobbies:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYPL6&P=7
11-29-2010, 10:54 AM
#8052
I'm selling my Jammin setup if anyone is interested:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ghlight=jammin
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ghlight=jammin
11-29-2010, 12:22 PM
#8053
It's more narrow, but the same lenght as the stocker. Just as a heads up.. you will need to mount the both chassis braces on the left side of the chassis. For the front you just flip the top plate, but for the rear you will need part #OFN40834 (servo saver set) to be able to move the rear brace.
11-29-2010, 12:39 PM
#8054
Ok. Thanks for the info.
If it doesn't add some length to get 'er closer to the max roar length I don't see myself sinking that much dough into that new chassis.
Unless someone comes out with it soon, I plan on making a chassis that is .5 inches longer, puts the motor in the front left, and uses saddle packs.
If it doesn't add some length to get 'er closer to the max roar length I don't see myself sinking that much dough into that new chassis.
Unless someone comes out with it soon, I plan on making a chassis that is .5 inches longer, puts the motor in the front left, and uses saddle packs.
11-29-2010, 01:24 PM
#8055
Ok. Thanks for the info.
If it doesn't add some length to get 'er closer to the max roar length I don't see myself sinking that much dough into that new chassis.
Unless someone comes out with it soon, I plan on making a chassis that is .5 inches longer, puts the motor in the front left, and uses saddle packs.
If it doesn't add some length to get 'er closer to the max roar length I don't see myself sinking that much dough into that new chassis.
Unless someone comes out with it soon, I plan on making a chassis that is .5 inches longer, puts the motor in the front left, and uses saddle packs.