*****YOKOMO BMAX 4*****
#1666
Is it possible to buy a kit?
Thanks in advance
Sylvain
Thanks in advance
Sylvain
Here is my new shorty lipo conversion chassis in carbon fibre.
Allows the motor/slipper pod to be rotated 180 degrees and moved forward. Front and rear propshafts are swapped. Shorty lipo tray allows forward and rearward positions in a similar manner to the saddle lipo trays.
More photos when fitted.
Allows the motor/slipper pod to be rotated 180 degrees and moved forward. Front and rear propshafts are swapped. Shorty lipo tray allows forward and rearward positions in a similar manner to the saddle lipo trays.
More photos when fitted.
#1667
Damages on my 4-3 at a club race yesterday. front axle cup broke in half. another race had his almost chipping away.
after which, front arm broke off too. not sure if the injuries are all tied to each other.
3 qualifying rounds, 3 finals. Had to retire 4 times due to the following.
1. ESC/ Motor thermal after fan blade broke off during practice.
2. rear ball end broke, front rim warped and it can bind onto the steering block ball cup when turning.
3. axle broke
4. front arm broke.
even my backup Bmax 4-2 gave me gearbox issue before race starts.
overall, still very happy with the car response and handling. hope to do better next round.
back to the topic of the front wheel auto pop off from the first batch of users. I've been wondering if it is due to the CVD shaft rubbing onto the C hub hole where the CVD goes thru to the steering block.
cause i realise that my C hub seems to have some abrasion marks caused by the CVD shafts.
#1669
froggie - I imagine if you use a CF chassis, you could lose a few additional grams there too. (I remember when I changed to CF chassis on my old Durango 4wd, it was quite a decent weight loss).
Also .. shorty packs 4200 is more than enough for stock racing and, more importantly, is light.
viktozz - was it a big hit to break the drive cups?
Also .. shorty packs 4200 is more than enough for stock racing and, more importantly, is light.
viktozz - was it a big hit to break the drive cups?
#1670
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
froggie - I imagine if you use a CF chassis, you could lose a few additional grams there too. (I remember when I changed to CF chassis on my old Durango 4wd, it was quite a decent weight loss).
Also .. shorty packs 4200 is more than enough for stock racing and, more importantly, is light.
viktozz - was it a big hit to break the drive cups?
Also .. shorty packs 4200 is more than enough for stock racing and, more importantly, is light.
viktozz - was it a big hit to break the drive cups?
Currently using the nano-tech 4200mah which are great, but will also be trying the protek 3200mah (only 155g!).
Should be able to get close to the legal limit..
#1671
froggie - I imagine if you use a CF chassis, you could lose a few additional grams there too. (I remember when I changed to CF chassis on my old Durango 4wd, it was quite a decent weight loss).
Also .. shorty packs 4200 is more than enough for stock racing and, more importantly, is light.
viktozz - was it a big hit to break the drive cups?
Also .. shorty packs 4200 is more than enough for stock racing and, more importantly, is light.
viktozz - was it a big hit to break the drive cups?
#1672
I've shattered both kit front CVD axle cups (I think they were over hardened) and I've shattered a kit CVD front shaft ball end when I rolled and blew a front shock tower mount.
I've since bought a pack of #B4-010F - Front Universal Drive Shaft and noticed that the design of the CVD axle is different from the kit (and BMAX4-ii). I think they have made a running change to a stronger piece.
I've done five maybe six front shock tower mounts. One simple roll on high grip astro kills the gearbox top. Saying that I've now made a shocktower cover from an old used rear wing, which is holding up well. Not killed one since I've been running it, which is good.
I've since bought a pack of #B4-010F - Front Universal Drive Shaft and noticed that the design of the CVD axle is different from the kit (and BMAX4-ii). I think they have made a running change to a stronger piece.
I've done five maybe six front shock tower mounts. One simple roll on high grip astro kills the gearbox top. Saying that I've now made a shocktower cover from an old used rear wing, which is holding up well. Not killed one since I've been running it, which is good.
#1673
Did you just drill your kit chassis?
#1674
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME FIND THE SET UP SHEET FOR BMAX4 iii FOR THE PRO DRIVER FOR CLAY HIGH BITE !!!!????????
#1675
#1676
There is a 17T plastic gear for the ball diff: B4-504B - guess that also takes away a few gramms... and I guess it helps to have the ball diff lasts longer than with the 17T metal gear?
#1678
#1679
froggie - did you manage to corner weight your car before and after making the changes to go shorty?
#1680
I've shattered both kit front CVD axle cups (I think they were over hardened) and I've shattered a kit CVD front shaft ball end when I rolled and blew a front shock tower mount.
I've since bought a pack of #B4-010F - Front Universal Drive Shaft and noticed that the design of the CVD axle is different from the kit (and BMAX4-ii). I think they have made a running change to a stronger piece.
I've since bought a pack of #B4-010F - Front Universal Drive Shaft and noticed that the design of the CVD axle is different from the kit (and BMAX4-ii). I think they have made a running change to a stronger piece.
i'm getting our local LHS to put in some parts for us. Would it be possible for you show us the diff between the new B4-010F vs the stock?
Thanks