I don't leave the house without em,
I should be at OCRC tomorrow, Wed. for racin.

EDIT NOTE:
I totally blew it on the tread change instructions!
What you are supposed to do is use a cutoff wheel on a Dremel and cut thru the U shaped knobs around the outside of the tires.
If the wheel was spinnin and you touched a marker to the outside knobs that would be where you cut.

BK, you got those tires handy? Wanna snap a shot? I'm not setup right now to shoot em.

What time and what should I look for

I've been using a new #11 blade and begun to sipe all of the square knobs on the rear tires of my SC10.

I should get there around 6pm and my pit space (yep, pay rent for it) is on the far corner next to where the water hose is.
Here's what my truck looks (looked) like and I could very well be the last longhair on the block.

If I don't make it, Robert Black has a couple of the first braces I made available, just ask him or Nick.
Thanks

Some ways to get traction out the stock tires is to
a. Break them in good.....bash em HARD
b. Try softer inserts
c. move the tops of shocks out? (haven't tried yet)
d. weight?? (not tested either)

My local(indoor) track is a high traction(mostly) track where SLASH tires have amazing traction. The 2 trucks are running together for now(track about to change to dirt oval in the summer), but we can use AE or Traxxas tires. I stripped out one of my stock wheels on the second battery, so I had to put on my Slash rears(still using stock fronts). This made the rear track quite a bit wider, but amazingly stable. I narrowed the rear for the next week and it began to pull wheelies! Now this week I have a new set of SLASH tires all the way around on BLACK SC10 wheels. I can't wait!!!!!!!!

If you can I'd run Slash tires.

I have begun my build of the SC10, so far on page 4 of the build, I'm a bit slow on building my kits, so hopefully I should be done with it in a couple of days so I can start and prep the body for the paint.

It's been a while since I built a 2wd, my last one was five years ago with the FT B4. I truly miss building these 2wd, they are so much more simpler then a 4wd, which can be pretty tedious...

AE doesn't disappoint. Their kits are still the same, high-quality kits. I truly enjoy building their stuff.

Anyone have any "gotchas" that I should watch out for while building this thing?

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for what source of powerplant to put in this thing? I'm thinking of bringing out my old Novak GTX and run some brushed motors. I have a 27T Monster stock motor (revenge/return of monster was it?) and I also have a 12T modified from my brushed 4-wheeling, which was replaced by brushless...

I was thinking of getting another 4600Kv Mamba Max system for it. Is it too much motor for this kind of truck? The 4600Kv in my DF-03 runs awesome, but maybe too much for a 2wd truck with a lot less traction (gonna stick with the stock rubber for now)...

But my initial reaction was, the body for these SC style trucks are HUGE! I can fit my B44 underneath it!


Side Note:

FN Cuda, what days are you at OCRC? I'm interested in getting one of your brace as a preventative measure. If a good driver like you can break the chassis, might be worth it to prevent a chassis breakage... How much do you sell the brace for

So I guess the rear toe hubs are hard to come by and all you can get is 1.0 and not 1.5. If anyone was fortunate enough to get some 1.0s or found some 1.5s please let me know what you think. I would hope that AE would come out with some factory parts to change the rear toe if others were having the same good results.

well i broke the dremal out and went to town on the tires today.i also added some weight around 3oz or so,took it outside ran it down the road and i could already tell a difference in it.i plan on doing some more testting at the track.and maybe i will try the slash tires,cuase my boys slash handles alot better then mine right now.im sure one of us will find that magic setup soon.i will post updates on my testing tomarrow.

I put the 28 on it last night to try it and the only truck that passed me on the straight was Murfdog motored so I guess I was over geared? Thanks for the tip guys.

post pics. of the tires on your SC10.

I used GT2 1.5 deg rear hub...it works fine just needed to get the outer bearing flanged or unflanged and some axle shims...

I threw the GT2's on mine last night and I'm not sure how you are going to get them shimmed enough to keep the dogbones in. The bearing sit's about 1/8 inch further out and I couldn't get enough play in the axle shaft.

I'm stopping by the LHS to see if I can find a solution this afternoon.

Please post if you find a solution.

I added 2 1/2 ounces up front steering, 3 ounces on top Lipo pushed foward to equal battery weight of Nimh, and 2 ounces on the back of battery compartment next to tranny...using 10.5 with goosebump tires and stealth ball diff tighten backed out 1/4 turn. total lead weight 7.5 ounces = matched against slash running 8.5 on buggy tires...alittle bit of advantage for me due to guy with slash can't drive...

I got this off the AE forums for 1.5 hubs....Hope it helps

"I was just out lookin' at the asc part list. The B44 1.5deg rear hubs are #7932. They will also need the 7933 crush tube and the larger bearing 7935 to make this work I believe. Just wanted to help by putting all the number together for you guys. Mine are on order, and will try it out soon."

These are the one's I tried (7932's, though they were labeled GT2 and not B44)- they move the hub out about 1/8" and your dogbones will fall out

I spent 30 minutes trying to find a workaround at the LHS and gave up. I'm going to build a custom front block for the pivot and see if I can get toe from there