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Old 01-31-2012 | 06:49 PM
  #9511  
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honestly back in the day you would get a car that had carbon parts and other upgrades.

I have to say I was pretty surprised that the FTs DON'T come with that stuff and have a bigger cost.
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Old 01-31-2012 | 06:53 PM
  #9512  
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
Anyone running hazard wheels..how do you keep them from grabbing the body in front? I just know forsure but my friends said it looked like they were grabbing my body and spinning me out. I was struggling so much I didn't know what was what.
I would say drive you vehicle and watch how it leans in the turns.

You may need to trim your body or raise it up a bit. what body are you using exactly?
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Old 01-31-2012 | 06:57 PM
  #9513  
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So, should I try 40 front and 35 rear? I see that most people have red springs up front and silver in the rear. Also, wondering if moving the shocks to outside on front tower would help.
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Old 01-31-2012 | 07:03 PM
  #9514  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
Are there that big of difference between the too? I just bought a RS and my buddy has the FT beside the lighter parts and blue anodized stuff, what's the biggest difference? I am going to put a rear cvds on instead of dog bones
I just think that if they offered an all out kit without the crappy electronics they wud sell like hotcakes...and yhea throw in the blue stuff im gonna buy it anyway...but just think...all the trick must have electronics with maifields settings and assembled by the ft in cali...id buy one!!!!
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Old 01-31-2012 | 07:05 PM
  #9515  
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Originally Posted by jmc5313
Obviously im new to the game but......why cant I buy a factory team rtr?...even as a novice I wud def have bought a ft vs. a rs...im gonna end up spending as much to upgrade the one I own as it wud to buy a kit and put those parts on my truck!!!!.....missed oppurtunity associated!!!...but not really huh?
IMO, I believe that it is good that the FT version is only made as a kit. I personally own a FT SC10 and look at it this way.... most people that buy an RS, buy it and run it with the brushless motor and mostly stock parts (a $300 truck), and aren't usually as interested in knowing how every single part on the truck is put together. Then, most of the people that buy a FT want it with very specific parts like the ESC, Motor, receiver, servo, tires, etc. and want to put it together themselves so that they can insure everything was installed just right... things like the shocks, ball diff, wheels/tires, etc... things that take some time to get jussttt the way you want them. So, the FT trucks typically ends up costing over $550+ when its said and done.

Like I said, this is just my opinion and don't want anyone to get mad at me if I didn't explain it correctly... everyone looks at things differently

And to answer your question about upgrading your RS version, it is true you could upgrade your truck to match the specs of a FT. But, it may cost you more in the long run. I mean the threaded V2 shocks that are on the FT would cost you $84 alone. It may be a better bet to sell your RS used and then take the money and buy a FT kit. If I were you I would just research what all the parts cost and see which route would be more beneficial for you and your situation. Either way, I hope you figure it all out... the FT is a SWEEETTT truck
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Old 01-31-2012 | 07:07 PM
  #9516  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I would say drive you vehicle and watch how it leans in the turns.

You may need to trim your body or raise it up a bit. what body are you using exactly?
Proline pro2 chevy
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Old 01-31-2012 | 07:12 PM
  #9517  
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
Proline pro2 chevy
Ohh, maybe that's the difference? I am just running the stock AE body that comes with the FT kit.
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Old 01-31-2012 | 07:27 PM
  #9518  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
Ohh, maybe that's the difference? I am just running the stock AE body that comes with the FT kit.
thats what i am wondering.

some bodys have different cut lines and shape changes that can cause issues on tires.
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Old 01-31-2012 | 07:29 PM
  #9519  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
IMO, I believe that it is good that the FT version is only made as a kit. I personally own a FT SC10 and look at it this way.... most people that buy an RS, buy it and run it with the brushless motor and mostly stock parts (a $300 truck), and aren't usually as interested in knowing how every single part on the truck is put together. Then, most of the people that buy a FT want it with very specific parts like the ESC, Motor, receiver, servo, tires, etc. and want to put it together themselves so that they can insure everything was installed just right... things like the shocks, ball diff, wheels/tires, etc... things that take some time to get jussttt the way you want them. So, the FT trucks typically ends up costing over $550+ when its said and done.

Like I said, this is just my opinion and don't want anyone to get mad at me if I didn't explain it correctly... everyone looks at things differently

And to answer your question about upgrading your RS version, it is true you could upgrade your truck to match the specs of a FT. But, it may cost you more in the long run. I mean the threaded V2 shocks that are on the FT would cost you $84 alone. It may be a better bet to sell your RS used and then take the money and buy a FT kit. If I were you I would just research what all the parts cost and see which route would be more beneficial for you and your situation. Either way, I hope you figure it all out... the FT is a SWEEETTT truck
Im gonna upgrade bcuz I already have it...just sayin if id had the choice I wudda bought a ft rtr...without the throwaway servo...and radio....and tires......and shocks...and batt strap....etc...i guess im just mad cuz as soon as I had my rs I knew they offered better
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Old 01-31-2012 | 08:03 PM
  #9520  
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I don't think anyone in this thread can do anything about it lol
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Old 01-31-2012 | 08:16 PM
  #9521  
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
I don't think anyone in this thread can do anything about it lol
Yea. I dont think a FT RTR would sell anyway. Most people who even know what a Factory Team truck is, is into racing so they would rather buy the kit and build it thereself like Lake said.
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Old 01-31-2012 | 09:00 PM
  #9522  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
Ohh, maybe that's the difference? I am just running the stock AE body that comes with the FT kit.
I'm running the Hazards and Proline Chevy. I run it low on a smooth clay track and had to cut the wells bigger to keep it from grabbing. Looks better, too, I think...
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Old 01-31-2012 | 09:26 PM
  #9523  
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I have what is almost certainly a newb question...


When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ???


It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away.

It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other.
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Old 01-31-2012 | 09:33 PM
  #9524  
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Originally Posted by M1Combat
I have what is almost certainly a newb question...


When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ???


It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away.

It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other.


take your tranny out and check the internals. most likely it's the idler gear. if you land on-power and the slipper doesn't slip all of that power-momentum has to go somewhere and ends up in the tranny where the most stress will be at. check it out and let us know what you find


D
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Old 01-31-2012 | 09:53 PM
  #9525  
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Originally Posted by M1Combat
I have what is almost certainly a newb question...


When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ???


It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away.

It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other.
My vote is gear diff needs to be rebuilt.
If your RS is under 60 or 90 days old. Send them a email and they should send you new rebuild shims in the mail.

Mine did it day one out of the box.
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