Originally Posted by jmonte23

Finally got to run my SC10 last night. Only one there against a field of slashes. The track I ran at allows 2.2 wheels and tires in the modified class which is what the slashes ran. I opted for the JConcepts goosebumps for the Sc10 and that was just the ticket. Won all three heats and the A main by a healthy margin. I ran the setup posted by PT Hill Top RC but did use the ball diff transmission. Powered it with a Tekin 13.5 and RS Pro speedo and SMC 5200 Lipos. Truck drove like it was on rails. Much easier to drive than my T4. Thanks to everyone in this forum for all the info needed to win the first time out..JoJo Monte

Originally Posted by mcdonaldsracing

I've had all sorts of problems with mine. I've had the truck for about 3 weeks and I've only been able to run it about 1 1/2 hrs b/c it's been broken the whole time. It started with a bum 5700kv motor from castle(don't even get me started on their products!), which for about 4 days I was thinking was a slipper clutch issue. Then once I replaced the motor with a 4800kv excelorin, I stripped the idler gear after about 30 min of runtime. Well, I had a buddy that gave me his out of his spare kit so I could run in our first points series race at CapeFear raceway in NC last weekend and I ended up breaking an arm on my second practice lap. After the race, I replaced all the arms with RPM's from the T4 and GT2, and then I had a sun gear strip in the diff within the first 20 min of getting it back in running condition. I've always been an AE fan, but this thing has given me nothing but problems from the minute I opened the box(I too had to break the dremel out to fix a steering bellcrank clearance issue after completing about the 3rd step in the instructions). I guess I should have waited to buy about the 2nd or 3rd edition of this truck so they could have time to work out all the bugs

Originally Posted by myrxseven

Not to sound mean or anyhting, but it sounds like you just threw the truck together skipping over some fine details.

Originally Posted by aeRayls

I you had to break out the dremel to fix the "steering issue" you built it wrong.
I always thought RTR's are just dumb and people need to build their kits, but after seeing how many problems people are having building what is a pretty simple kit, I now know why they are so popular.

Originally Posted by mcdonaldsracing

I have built many kits in the past, and I'm confident that the build went just as instructed. The only thing I did that deviated from the instructions was to go with different fluids in the shocks and diff. I don't think any of these changes could explain all the problems I have had with this truck. When the truck actually runs it's a blast to drive, the problem is it won't run long enough without something breaking. I'm not bashing this thing either. I haven't been able to run it long enough. Most of the time it has been run in the driveway just to test it out and check for overheating issues that I've been having with it. Currently it's set up with a MM esc, a 4800kv excelorin motor, 87/16 gearing, and powered by a common sense 2S 5200mah lipo.

Originally Posted by CaptainHowdyt13

Ok can anyone tell me if this is my diff doing this or something else?

Ran 2 heats, was grinding loudly when I take turns/have a lot of torque from a stop. I get to the mains and it's grinding REALLY bad. It got to the point where the truck was grinding ALL the time and very much losing power. I'm guessing the diff is either completely shot or it's something else. I havent taken it apart yet. If it's the diff, im tossing it in the trash and getting a T4 ball diff.

Originally Posted by mcdonaldsracing

I've had all sorts of problems with mine. I've had the truck for about 3 weeks and I've only been able to run it about 1 1/2 hrs b/c it's been broken the whole time. It started with a bum 5700kv motor from castle(don't even get me started on their products!), which for about 4 days I was thinking was a slipper clutch issue. Then once I replaced the motor with a 4800kv excelorin, I stripped the idler gear after about 30 min of runtime. Well, I had a buddy that gave me his out of his spare kit so I could run in our first points series race at CapeFear raceway in NC last weekend and I ended up breaking an arm on my second practice lap. After the race, I replaced all the arms with RPM's from the T4 and GT2, and then I had a sun gear strip in the diff within the first 20 min of getting it back in running condition. I've always been an AE fan, but this thing has given me nothing but problems from the minute I opened the box(I too had to break the dremel out to fix a steering bellcrank clearance issue after completing about the 3rd step in the instructions). I guess I should have waited to buy about the 2nd or 3rd edition of this truck so they could have time to work out all the bugs

Originally Posted by richardsonracin

Raced my SC10 last night for the first time. I ran against 7 Slash's. I ran 2nd in all 3 heats and ended up winning the main. As the sun went down and the moisture came up, it was hooked! Handled and JUMPED great. I'm new to off-road, last night was my 2nd time to run off-road in over ten years and even then it was a few times. That says something for the truck! The sc10 was the only Corr truck that could clear the tripple after a big double. But, The Slash guys were running the stock 12t and i had a ss5800 geared way down. It was a handfull early on when the track was dry. Seemed harder to drive down the straights than in the corners. But that's just the tires not hooking up. but i'll take that over pin tires anyday. keep the realism to the class. It was very fun racing.

You definitely need to add some weight to the nose. I tried gold springs on the front and went back to the stock silvers. getting the slipper adjusted just right is half the battle on hooking it up.