I'm curious as well.

This pretty much says it all. The only real advantage the FT SC10 has over the RTR is that the shocks are much better quality. I'm not certain they perform any better when fresh, but the FT shocks don't need built nearly as often as the RTR shocks do.

Sweet yeah I come from 12th scale on road did a bunch of series racing nitro I think I can run it the way it is mayb run the stock esp tell it burns up car counts are so low where I live its tough to invest to much

So I just got an SC10 rtr on sunday and Im curious what are some of the 1st mods you did. Besides the servo, speedo and motor. I already put in a spektrum servo in but plan on keeping the motor and speedo for now. Shocks? big bore or FT? Any advantages to switching to hex hubs? Also for indoor clay whats a good oil weight and spring? Sorry figure it would be easier than sifting thru 550 pages of posts.

I'm still at a little bit of a loss on this diff oil conversation. What does change the weight of the oil or grease have to with handling?

Chris

Changing the fluid in the differential tightens up or loosens up the action of the differential, just the same as tightening or loosening a ball differential. The thicker the fluid, the tighter the differential, the more forward bite you have but the less differential action you have.

The Factory team shocks are a definate upgrade but not needed right away. You can tune your stock shocks to preform. Spring rates will def depend on your track. I suggest spending the $20 for both front and rear spring kits and see what works for you. I run the Proline Hexes all the way around, I know you can get the SC10RS hexes from ebay or other sites but I had purchased mine before the RS came out. one big advantage form me is I can run my front tires on the rear and rear tires on the front. They are the same offset. So if you are on a budget like most of us are it allows you to rotate your tires to wear the same. I think that a Ball Diff is a pretty important upgrade, but that is just my opinion. I know some guys swear by there gear diff and that is fine, but i have nothing but good luck with my ball diff. Honestly I would get the spring kit, learn to drive the thing and when you are out driving your truck than start upgrading. Sorry for typing a novel but I hope it helps.

Tim

Is the shock shaft different from a FT V2 shock and the V2 shocks in the RS RTR ? Or is just the body different, FT being threading RS not?

I have the FT shocks on my RS truck and If the shafts are the same., you can save a lot of money by just buying the threaded bodies, instead of the whole shock kit. But having spare shocks is nice :)

the first thing I needed were RPM ball cups, they are cheap and work great. then maybe different pinion and spurs

Did anyone mention tires? You'll probably want some better tires than the RTRs, especially in the rear. See what the fast guys are running at your track. Also, check to see if backing off the tranny assembly screws doesn't free up the tranny a bit. I think its a pretty common problem. I run mine so that they are not really even tight at all. Thread lock is even more important at that point.

The FT rear arm mounts (so you can adjust rear toe in and anti-squat) are helpful if you are having problems with rear traction, as well.

means everything in 8th scale buggy diffs

Has anyone had any issues with cogging with the AE 3300KV BL motor and ESC? I mentioned to some of the people at the track that I occasionally lose power when I'm going slow. I installed a glitch buster but that didn't help. Someone suggested that the motor may be cogging which is causing it to lose power for a second. Has this happened to anyone else? Any other ideas as to what may be causing the problem?

After seeing pics of Kinwald's SC10, I went ahead and centered my ESC. The ESC a Losi Xcelorin sensored. My truck is a FT but, I installed the receiver box from the RS. I used to run weights inside my RX box to offset the ESC. I have now took them out and trying to run a lighter setup. Here are some pics after some testing:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8...252520ESC3.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...252520ESC2.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...252520ESC4.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...252520ESC5.jpg

Believe I have experienced the same problem. Recently, my capacitor failed. I probably shorted it out with a bare wire. Left the capacitor out and it seems like majority of cogging has ceased but need further testing to be sure.

sc10 cleannnn...
 

:)