Hi Guys,

Getting into the RC car hobby, been flying planes and helis for 10 years and really wanna get into the Short Course scene, I've decided to skip the RTR kits, mainly because I want to race and have been told that I will end up replacing allot of parts on the RTR kits for racing.

So I'm budgeting and sorting out my first racing short Course Truck, YAY

This is the buying list so far:

Supplier (Supreme Hobbies):
Kit: 1 x Team Associated SC10 Factory Team Kit

Supplier (Hobbypartz):
Radio: 1 x FlySky FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 2.4ghz TX & RX LCD Transmitter & Receiver
Batteries: 2 x Gens ace LIPO 5000mAh 40C 7.4V lipo battery pack ROAR approved
Servo: 1 x EXI Digital Coreless Servo-D226F w/ Metal Gear (0.15s / 13kg/cm / 180.5oz/in)

I need some advise for motor and esc, going to be running club 13.5T races. seen a few options but just starting out in the RC car scene i'm not sure what is worth the $ and what is junk

Appreciate any advise that could be passed my way

The reason I have separated them by supplier is really for me, I live in NZ so I'm trying to consolidate the parts I need as much as possible to reduce my overall shipping costs If you know a good esc and motor combo or set from the current chosen suppliers that would make a huge difference in my overall costs.

Thanks guys.
Regards
Jack

I had a look at them but from what i saw they didn't appear to be the beadlock system.

The proline beadlock system wheel for sc10 to me appears to be for the rtr version which doesnt have 12mm hex.

I have the race spec sc10 which comes with 12mm hexes front and rear std. so would i have to order the proline beadlock wheels for the slash because i am pretty sure they come with 12mm hex or are they the wrong offset?

Thanks for helping me

Castle sct 3800 is very popular at our track in san diego. Do not think it will qualify for 13.5 though.

+1 the castle system rocks in this truck. I would call the track owner and ask it deff is worth looking into .

wrong offset. slash wheels would stick out about a 1/4- 1/2 inch outside the body. I havn't seen any beadlocks for the sc10 yet (would be the same for the 4x4 too). maybe do some more searching or just use stock rims and glue.
beadlocks are nice but i have had bad experiances using them on sct's.

I just use the JC Rulux 12mm wheels in the rear (along with their 12mm hex conversion). Let me know if those fit the front RS hex wheels. I'm planning on converting to those when AE releases the parts to the market.

I agree. They are nice. But I have had my bad experiences with them also. They just always came apart and the screw holes would always striip out so they never worked, I would love to have a set for my sc10 allso but id have to get a good set

They should fit it is a 12mm hex

Just wanna make sure it's the correct offset

Heard JConcepts is releasing a new rim for the Sc-10 that will make the Sc-10 a bit wider, like the Kyosho ....

I'm trying to set my sc10 steering linkage. If I make them equal the one wheel has so much toe out ... is the manual wrong on the basic set up lengths? I purchased the truck used and want to take it back to box set up and work from there.

kit turnbuckle dimensions


Ft camber link =84.2mm use stud on shock tower inside, use inside stud on caster block.


steering link = 89.4mm


rear camber link =91.4mm use the inside hole on chassis ,outside hole on rear hub

All you links should be equal length compared to the other side of the vehicle. A lot of folks have trouble setting up the steering correctly. Biggest mistake is not having the servo centered properly. I'm not sure where your car is going wrong, but you might check the centering, and make sure the same hole is being used on both sides of the car both on the steering rack and on the spindle (at the wheel).

Ok guys, I have been researching the Proline Flo-Tek body. I'm looking for a new body that will provide good downforce and decrease the parachute effect. URC website did a comparison which showed that the body did best when they cut out even more areas than designed for. Is there any other bodies out there that would be better?

i use the j concepts svt raptor and i don't cut the slots out and don't have the parachute effect