Well I finally received mine today. Started my build after dinner and everything went extremely smooth, no steering issue on mine. I had not done any racing since the mid 90s, so this is my first Associated B4/T4-SC10 build. I have been crawling for the last several years and just in the last year w/ the release of the Slash that I started doing some racing again.

Found out that I am a certifiable R/C crack head though.:lol: I went to look for one of my old car stands and found a FT T4 that I had made a trade for over a year ago. We recently moved and it was packed away in a box, I had totally forgot about it.:blush:

So as I built my SC10, I removed parts off the T4 and installed them on my SC10. The Titanium links, the aluminum hing pin brace, the hard coated shocks (I'll rebuild them before I run them), and some assorted stainless hardware. Finished up the entire front portion of the truck and decided to call it quits for the night. I'm not in a huge hurry to finish as I still waiting on my ESC and motor.

I'll finish up the rear of the truck tomorrow and start figuring out a paint job.

Their having trouble getting parts to the states from what I hear but the wheels should be coming in to the hobby shops in the next couple of weeks.

Exactly, and the kit tires are designed to limit traction keeping the racing close and big motors useless... also keeping the cost down. If you start adding the traction back you might as well run a T4.

The more I think about it, the more I lean towards better treads. Im already getting board with the stock tires. Getting better tires will add some drivability, but cause of the size and shape of the tire no matter what tread you have it will be useless for big motors. You will still have to drive it like now but it will be a touch eayser to put where you want. Racing is very close right now and dont want to see that go away but if this class is to survive we need rubber that can hook up. Most of us are racers, racers want a few things. A little bit of speed for fun. Enough hp to make the jump and enough traction to drive it comfortably. If we cant get into a rythm on the track cause we have to tip toe everywhere then its just no fun and the class will die.

As long as we keep the size and shape of the tire but just play with tread everything should work out just fine. Now Im not saying open the gates to fuzzies and tapers but, theres a lot of 1/8 treads that look the part and would hook up pretty good.

DK

VERY WELL SAID SWEN!!! i bought one of thease cause i dont and cant afford to shell out big money on the who's got the most/best tire of the day game. keep this class of racing afordable and you will see bigger numbers at youre track. NO PIN TIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!:flaming::flaming::flaming::cry: :lol:

Hey,
I finished my SC10 tonight, so I just need to finish the final adjustments.
Questions:

• Can one of you measure how long your rear tie rods are?
• The black grease that comes with the truck, should I put some of that in the diff?
• Can I put some 30wt shock oil in the front with a little 50wt shock oil?
• What gearing should I use, right now I've got a VXL 3s system in there with 23/87 gearing, is that about right?
• What servo horn should I use with Traxxas's waterproof, digital, high torque servo?
• The holes in the chassis where the screws hold the servo in aren't in the right place for my servo(listed above). I put some electrical tape around there to hold the servo in place, is that good, or should the screws fit?
  That question sounds like crap, how about this: the servo mounts don't go directly above the holes in the chassis where the servo is held in place. Why?

^crap. thats alot of questions.:lol:

Use the black grease in the diff. That's what seems to be working for everyone. I would imagine that's why the truck did not come with diff oil.

First let me say thanks to everyone for all the help and advice. I just wanted to post a few pics and say a few things.

I don't race and lots of people told me that associated was not for bashers. Obviously there are different levels of "bashing". The truck may not be able to fly full speed into a curb, but it has proven to be very durable with all stock parts in my opinion. I could not be happier. Just cause you're bashing, doesn't mean you don't deserve precise handling and great control. Have your cake and eat it too.

For whomever was asking along with myself about Sidewinder 4600 gearing. I think I've found it. 24/75 gives me impressive acceleration and plenty of top speed and what I was really after.......cools temps for all components. (comparable to my VXL).

The kit tires work fantastic and can handle a 7.5 with no problems...


Finally fun seeing a SCT clearing all the jumps and getting big air compared to Slash bashing I`v seen.....


Close racing happens with or with a slow or fast motor , tires will make no difference either...

The drivers make it close, not equipment...:nod:

Anyone try pushing the battery up against the rear shock tower for more reAr traction? I guess I'll have to trim the stops on the battery hold down

I've seen the question asked already but with no definitive answer. How much of the supplied black grease should go in the dif., ie 1/2, 3/4, all of it. I understand it's a matter of opinion, but what do you guys think.

Get plenty in there, but doesn't have to be super packed...

Just coat the gears and your done. Any more and you will have a rear end that likes to pass the front end.

Using the black grease you won't tell as big of a difference if you add a little more unlike using silicone diff fluid. Make sure you use enough back grease to keep it smoothe.

I just put a light coating on mine and it seems to be OK