SC10 Thread
12-27-2010 | 01:48 PM
#5313
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,301
From: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Actually he was using custom tires he made himself. He glues 2 or 3 different tires together to get the sidewall he likes with inside tread he likes and outside tread he likes. They are pretty cool, are usually a little wider than what the normal width is, but bery pricy cutting up 3 pairs of tires to make one good pair.
That would make a set of short course tires about 130 bucks 
Anyhoo, speakin of tires. I just built my FT SC10. What's a good choice of tire for an indoor track. Packed, unswept clay. Any info will help.
12-27-2010 | 05:21 PM
#5316
Tech Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,027
From: Columbus, OH
He Guys
I just bought a SC10 RTR brushless. I took it to a small track today and it handled pretty good; turned good, jumped pretty good and accelerated pretty
quickly. The only problem was getting on the gas hard out of turns. The rear-end seemed the want to break-loose; easing on the gas kinda fixed it. I might replace the grease with 7,000 wt diff fluid. One more thing. I weighed the RTR brushless Pro-Comp body and it weighed a whopping 245grams my nitro 1/8 buggy's body only weighs 55grams. Does anyone know who makes a lighter body?
I just bought a SC10 RTR brushless. I took it to a small track today and it handled pretty good; turned good, jumped pretty good and accelerated pretty
quickly. The only problem was getting on the gas hard out of turns. The rear-end seemed the want to break-loose; easing on the gas kinda fixed it. I might replace the grease with 7,000 wt diff fluid. One more thing. I weighed the RTR brushless Pro-Comp body and it weighed a whopping 245grams my nitro 1/8 buggy's body only weighs 55grams. Does anyone know who makes a lighter body?
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a..._edit_2010.pdf
Try that. I use 2 degrees of rear camber instead of factory.
Don't put fluid in your gear diff. Get the ball diff instead.
Also upgrade to the V2 slipper pads and slipper spring, then run the FT kit setting or a little less slipper. I had no luck with the old white slipper pads.
You can't get on a Sc10 very hard. If your smooth it'll reward you.
12-27-2010 | 10:23 PM
#5317
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 367
The Factory Team setup is quite dialed and easy to drive, I don't use it, but it is the best place to start:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a..._edit_2010.pdf
Try that. I use 2 degrees of rear camber instead of factory.
Don't put fluid in your gear diff. Get the ball diff instead.
Also upgrade to the V2 slipper pads and slipper spring, then run the FT kit setting or a little less slipper. I had no luck with the old white slipper pads.
You can't get on a Sc10 very hard. If your smooth it'll reward you.
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a..._edit_2010.pdf
Try that. I use 2 degrees of rear camber instead of factory.
Don't put fluid in your gear diff. Get the ball diff instead.
Also upgrade to the V2 slipper pads and slipper spring, then run the FT kit setting or a little less slipper. I had no luck with the old white slipper pads.
You can't get on a Sc10 very hard. If your smooth it'll reward you.
Thanks
I got this thing to help improve my racing lines, plus everyone and their grandmother has one. Next weekend we are having a big race, (if the weather
holds out) and it will be my first race with it. I'll be racing it box stock to get
a feel of what I think needs to be changed. I'm almost sure I'll be adding some
negative camber to the rear and probably loosen the slipper clutch. I will buy
the ball diff, but will try to work with the gear diff; I raced ten years+ 1/10th
scale nitro stadium truck(losi XXX-NT) which had ball diffs a real p.i.t.a., but
will put the ball diff in if I can't get the gear diff to work right. I'm still reading
this thread I started from page one and I am at page 200 now still aways to
go so I'm still learning.
