SC10 Thread
#5461
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
This is a 540's, according to HK website. Just that it is longer, I guess it will produce more torque. Just wondering if can wheelie with just 2S with this motor. 
What's the next best brushless system to replace stock? I just feel that the stock doesn't have enough power for wheelie...

What's the next best brushless system to replace stock? I just feel that the stock doesn't have enough power for wheelie...
You're geared wrong.
Try a 24t pinion and 81t spur.
#5462
any one running 17mm hex's ..... just looking on ebay and theres alot more option on brands for the convertions .. im running stRC ones got them back when they first came out and im FAR from happy with them ... any one running the dynamite , LW-hotracing or aka ones ????? what ya think of em ..
#5464
Hi,
Today found my SC10 rear left tyre wobbling when at full speed (no load - lift up the truck from ground). Any tips what to check and what to do?
Today found my SC10 rear left tyre wobbling when at full speed (no load - lift up the truck from ground). Any tips what to check and what to do?
#5465
I drove my truck for the first time on Saturday. TQ'd and won against all the 2 and 4wd SCT's. I had a blast driving the truck.
How do you know when you need to back off or tighten up on the diff and the same thing on the slipper?
How do you know when you need to back off or tighten up on the diff and the same thing on the slipper?
#5466
Remove the tire from the vehicle. Grab the shaft and wiggle it. If you get alot of play inside to outside and up and down chances are you have burned up a bearing the rear hub. Very common with the sc10. If you are running a bigger motor. Or are very fast with a stock 17.5 motor you can go thru bearings on this very quickly. The best thing i have found so far is to switch to the .5 or 1 degree b44 rear hubs. They cost about $25 bucks for decent aluminum ones but save you that in bearings in the long run. I was changing bearins every 2-3 race days in the rear. Now i do about 1 out of 6 instead.
#5467
got a race tomm, hoping to do well.
got a question for the guys with the FT SC10's, are you running the red/grey springs in loamy clay. I've noticed that was too hard so I run silver/green springs with 35 wt oil.
Is it better to run a lower weight oil (like 30 wt)with a stiffer spring? Just curious.
Why do some guys run a higher wt oil in the front vs the rear?
got a question for the guys with the FT SC10's, are you running the red/grey springs in loamy clay. I've noticed that was too hard so I run silver/green springs with 35 wt oil.
Is it better to run a lower weight oil (like 30 wt)with a stiffer spring? Just curious.
Why do some guys run a higher wt oil in the front vs the rear?
#5468
Remove the tire from the vehicle. Grab the shaft and wiggle it. If you get alot of play inside to outside and up and down chances are you have burned up a bearing the rear hub. Very common with the sc10. If you are running a bigger motor. Or are very fast with a stock 17.5 motor you can go thru bearings on this very quickly. The best thing i have found so far is to switch to the .5 or 1 degree b44 rear hubs. They cost about $25 bucks for decent aluminum ones but save you that in bearings in the long run. I was changing bearins every 2-3 race days in the rear. Now i do about 1 out of 6 instead.
I have the 1.5 degree blue aluminum rear hubs on my truck. Should I go down to the .5 or the 1 degree? They are different amounts of toe in on the rear correct?
Thanks
#5469
Remove the tire from the vehicle. Grab the shaft and wiggle it. If you get alot of play inside to outside and up and down chances are you have burned up a bearing the rear hub. Very common with the sc10. If you are running a bigger motor. Or are very fast with a stock 17.5 motor you can go thru bearings on this very quickly. The best thing i have found so far is to switch to the .5 or 1 degree b44 rear hubs. They cost about $25 bucks for decent aluminum ones but save you that in bearings in the long run. I was changing bearins every 2-3 race days in the rear. Now i do about 1 out of 6 instead.
Could it be because I pack the differential with black grease? I mean really pack it.
I only see this after I pack it with black grease.
#5470
I check both side and it seems to have little play up and down and inside to outside but the strange part is that only left tyre vibrates (wobbles). The right one is as steady as brand new.
Could it be because I pack the differential with black grease? I mean really pack it.
I only see this after I pack it with black grease.
Could it be because I pack the differential with black grease? I mean really pack it.
I only see this after I pack it with black grease.
Possible. But i would tear it apart and inspect the bearings, make sure everything is ok.
Also shine a flash light on the diff on the side that wobbles while its under power to see if its wobbleing there, you may have one outdrive that that is bent a little or where the dogbone rides is wore out.
#5471
I check both side and it seems to have little play up and down and inside to outside but the strange part is that only left tyre vibrates (wobbles). The right one is as steady as brand new.
Could it be because I pack the differential with black grease? I mean really pack it.
I only see this after I pack it with black grease.
Could it be because I pack the differential with black grease? I mean really pack it.
I only see this after I pack it with black grease.
#5474
How do you know when you need to back off or tighten up on the diff?
When I built the truck I built it according to the FT manual. I noticed last night that it called for a 3.5 degree rear toe block. I also installed 1.5 degree FT blue aluminum hubs so i had 5 degrees of toe. Maybe that is why my truck was kind of twichy down the straight away and also why it wanted to come around on my so easy.
What do you guys think?
Last night I put the 2.5 degree rear toe block on with my 1.5 hubs.
What about cutting vent holes in the body. Will that help keep the front down over bigger jumps?
Thanks
When I built the truck I built it according to the FT manual. I noticed last night that it called for a 3.5 degree rear toe block. I also installed 1.5 degree FT blue aluminum hubs so i had 5 degrees of toe. Maybe that is why my truck was kind of twichy down the straight away and also why it wanted to come around on my so easy.
What do you guys think?
Last night I put the 2.5 degree rear toe block on with my 1.5 hubs.
What about cutting vent holes in the body. Will that help keep the front down over bigger jumps?
Thanks
#5475
How do you know when you need to back off or tighten up on the diff?
When I built the truck I built it according to the FT manual. I noticed last night that it called for a 3.5 degree rear toe block. I also installed 1.5 degree FT blue aluminum hubs so i had 5 degrees of toe. Maybe that is why my truck was kind of twichy down the straight away and also why it wanted to come around on my so easy.
What do you guys think?
Last night I put the 2.5 degree rear toe block on with my 1.5 hubs.
What about cutting vent holes in the body. Will that help keep the front down over bigger jumps?
Thanks
When I built the truck I built it according to the FT manual. I noticed last night that it called for a 3.5 degree rear toe block. I also installed 1.5 degree FT blue aluminum hubs so i had 5 degrees of toe. Maybe that is why my truck was kind of twichy down the straight away and also why it wanted to come around on my so easy.
What do you guys think?
Last night I put the 2.5 degree rear toe block on with my 1.5 hubs.
What about cutting vent holes in the body. Will that help keep the front down over bigger jumps?
Thanks
I run the 3.5 degree toe block and 1 deg hubs without any problems. My SC10 is stable on the straights. Anything from 3.5 to 4.5 degress is good for medium to low traction surfaces. You will want to reduce the toe on higher traction surfaces.
In terms of control over jumps it is really about throttle on the launch ramp. If you over throttle the front will fly up. You have to learn to come off the throttle as you hit the face of the jump to keep the nose down. If you watch some of the Pros they can control the pitch of the truck well without holes.



