Ok so this may help with those of you who chimed in on the jumping issue.. Traction is great I can basically go around any corner and not roll over. Jumping just endos nose first..

Front red springs no spacers shocks on bottom holes on top and out side on bottom. Stock rtr fluid

Rear red springs no spacers shocks outside holes on top and inside on bottom. Stock fluid

It's so planted on the track I don't want to change anything. I just will lose my time on the jumps. And it bottoms out so easy.

Running on high bite carpet.

I have the Reedy RTR motor and ESC in my SC10. You can get 15-20 minutes of run time out of a 3600 pack. I have mine geared at 22/87, but you could probably go to 20/87 if your track is tight. I've found that the Reedy motor is pretty quick when geared up. The stock gearing is really too low.

I've had my RTR SC10 for a year and have yet to experience a shock leak.

Don't put anything in the diff. I can't tell you whether the ball diff is better as I haven't tried one yet.

Get a chassis brace or make you own. Look up Looney Racing or Cuda here for more info.

I'd try the Factory Team setup to start with. Run 40wt oil in the front shocks.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca..._edit_2010.pdf


Good luck,


Chris

OK, stupid RPM rear arms. It's taking forever to get the binding out of the inner hingepins. Outers have no binding and they're good to go

7/64 bit isn't doing it. Is there a 1/8 Losi hingepin that's the right length?

Also with the stock brushless motor what would you guys suggest to gear it at on a fairly tight carpet track?

just came by ups today...thanks

Start at 20/87. Check your temps from there. I've found that the motor seems to have more low end AND top end with 22/87 vs 20/87 or 18/87.

Ok and you don't want to exceed how hot in how many minutes?

150F is good. Check it after every 5 minutes until you're satisfied that it will go the distance without going over 160F.

180F is the never excede temp.

Cool I'll give that a try next time I'm at the track

I ran 25/87 today with 17.5, worked out pretty well

Hey I hope this is okay in this thread. I posted this in the Rookie Zone but thought I'd try it here too.

I just got an SC10 and when I opened the box was surprised to see the antenna sticking way out of the body. The antenna wire itself (with the tube removed) is 11 inches long.

Are there solutions to that? Can the antenna wire be trimmed with no ill effects? Can the wire just be left inside the truck? It is a 2.4 radio system and I thought that with the 2.4 you didn't have a long antenna on the truck or on the radio remote.

Thanks.

Pete

Some radio systems are different than others...i would think you should be able to coil some of it inside the truck before running it in the tube but i would never cut it to a shorter length. Radios are tuned for a specific length antenna and if you were to cut if only slightly would degrade reception significantly.

running low like your doing means the rear bottom of the chassis slaps the jump and this bucks the rear up with the car ending up with a ft end en do .

you can try a smaller piston size or thicker oil in the rear...

also

try approaching the jump a bit slower and right before the jump, blip over with the throttle....

and one of these gearing will make this faster correct?

Thanks Chris, looks like all I need is a some shock springs to do that setup. So I will get those and some bigger pinion gears and I should be good to go.