Dave, it depends on which diff you ordered. There are now 2 diffs, the OG b4/t4 and now the sc10/t4.1/b4.1 diff that takes the 10x16mm bearings. If you got the old diff you"ll need the older tranny case and rear chassis plate too. Actuall the old tranny probly fits the new rear brace but not 100% on that, I do know you cant put the new case in the old plate.

Adam I ordered the MIP SC10 diff kit which is prolly newer style.

i have the mip and you need the diff case and the thicker bearings

10X16 bearings?

If you ordered the sc10 diff, you dont need anything else. just drop it in.

I am sure it is in this thread somewhere already but 300 plus pages is too much to read.

Is it possible to convert to the 12mm hex hubs? if so What is needed?

My son and i both run SC but his is a scrt10 and mine a sc10 so we have to keep double the amount of wheels instead of just sharing.

I installed the Losi 1 degree rear hubs on my SC10 this week. I just wanted to pass along a tip. You do not need to use E clips on the hinge pin if you:

A. Measure the stock hinge pin
B. Drill the arm out to the depth of the stock pin with a 1/8th drill.
C. Cut the Losi pin to the same length as the stock pin.

I drilled mine with a drill press, but you could use a collar or even tape on a hand held drill. I cut the pins on my lathe, but I could have done it close enough with a Dremel and cut off wheel. They don't have to be exact, just short enough that the screw can hold them in place.


Chris

Will be doing that mod in the future, thanks.

Nobody has converted to 12mm hex hubs on an SC10? Wow guess I will have to figure it out on my own.

A couple people have, but stock SC10 wheels are only $7/pr

Use blitz parts to convert to the hex. Needs the whole front caster assembly. And the rear iforget what is needed. All blitz parts though. Seen a few people do it. Myself I just run the wheels it's built for.

My son and I run bead locks so 7 bucks is not even in our neighborhood. The pins on the sc10 strip too easey for my taste. 7+7+7+7..........adds up.

Will try the blitz conversion, thanks for the replies.

Keep your wheels tight, man. Running nothing but stock SC10 wheels here, and bashing the snot out of it...WOT landings on jumps and all that crap.

Keep a fresh supply of 6-32 nuts because the nylon wears out.

You realize 12mm hexes are pin drive too right?

Hexes are completely unnecessary.

Keep fresh nuts and check them after each and every run and you will never have a problem again.

Once the nut shows signs of even the slightest looseness when you check then replace that nut.

Serrated nuts also work very well as they do not have nylon holding them on that eventually wears out. The serrations on the nut hold it to the wheel so it doesn't spin itself loose.

I always tighten my rear wheel nuts EVERY time I make ONE run. I have never ruined a wheel yet on mine. I replace the wheel nuts about every month or 5 race nights. I learned to keep them tight after every run from my 1/8th scale late model. No fun losing a wheel during a race or main.

So i just completed my ftsc10 build.. and i have 3 set screws sitting in front of me.. what did i miss?