Yep, I took alot of your advise & put on my truck even your brace..lol
Now Im in the fine tuning stages with it...you know, always looking for more:sneaky:

Just build a Losi:sneaky::sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:
And not that POS they call a SCT.

I had that happen during a main a couple weeks ago. I was like wow this battery must have false peaked, but then it kept going like that for rest of the main. I have a spare stock motor that doesn't have the radio supressors zo I stole the screw out of it

Scuffed up the brush hoods and soldered the shunts on, won't happen again. Better connection that way anyway.

That's great.
Get it close with a basic setup that works at your track then fine tune to suit your driving style, aggressive or patient or both if that's what you do.

Can't forget how much your radio can help settle it down too.

Just like adding cheats on a video racing game, braking control, steering control, throttle control.

If it's loose, make sure you have the very best tires then tweek the setup then tweek the radio.

Same for steering, tires first.

Oh yeh, beef up that chassis so you can finish with your truck in one piece.:eek:

Yeah man...I justed started playing with the throttle curve on the 10.5...liking it alot
Thinking about dropping down to 7.5...you think the stock diff is going to hold up with the black grease? Or should I go liquid like a 3000 or 30 shock oil?
We run 10 min mains over here...& goosebumps are the ticket

I have yet to break a chassis or see a broken chassis arround here.

My truck has been great on the track and the only part i have replaced since buying the truck was a rear t-plate from jumping over a wall turn and trying to do a back flip. It is one of the funnest classes to run just due to the size of the cars and having to worry about wind over jumps. Im glad I have one. I do need to get new shock bodies as the insides are getting worn out on mine.

It's crazy the way the chassis are.

When they first came out, in just a couple days there were 3 broken chassis at our track, mine broke first day I had it so I made and bolted a brace onto it to put it back together. Still like that many months later.
They are still breakin, as per requests I've sent braces literally round the world thanks to rctech and ebay. (can see feedbacks)
I'm an average sportsman and yeh, I cartwheeled it cuz as you all well know, the handling on these out of the box or with fresh kit build specs is laughable at best.
The other couple were expert drivers, one parked it and went back to another vehicle altogether.
On the other hand, I've seen guys of all different talent levels race and crash over and over with nothing more than a broken arm.

You can also brace the T plate on these and the Losi trucks, same type of plate. I run one on mine and a couple others have em too.

Oh yeh, diggin the name of your town in La.

RR4E, once mine was dialed in and I shimmed up the diff and put fresh black grease in it, I was running an 8.5 and the same diff is in it to this day.
Keep an eye on the slipper, tight but not locked, definately not slippin either, just enough.
Has a 13.5 now since that is what the majority of the guys were running a while ago.
It looks like they are all running 10.5 now in the open class, I haven't been running mine tho, sidetracked with an F1 lately and blowin cobwebs off the 8ight E too.

Broken chassis? I keep waiting to see one. So far not a problem. I driven mine with a 6.5 brushless and no issues. :weird:

I just got a mx3fg and installed the receiver in the truck today. going to pegasus after dinner tonight to she how dialed i can get the settings for me. I drove it up and down the street and range is great.

Got an SC10 Kit on the way to me. Looking forward to building it. Is their anything i should look out for/ do differently when building it?

Cheers

Thanks Retloh, I wonder if they make a 1.5 degree? I spoke to a guy at OCRC last weekend that was running an HPI Blitz and he said he was running 1.5 I think and his rear was not fish tailing...


Thanks Pimpin. I wonder though, why aren't the rear hubs for the T4 used? I thought it was a direct bolt in, no?

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Biggest thing is make sure you have the proper shim kit for the differential. If your differential came with more then one shim per side, you have the latest kit.

Also, use a chassis brace like the one made by FN Cuda.

Last, but certainly one of the most important, the wheels and tires. Make sure you have the latest rear rims. The part where the rear rim meets the rear axle's drive pin should have a crescent moon shape between the "+" pattern.

Or you can use third party rims like JC's Rulux or Split Six from Proline.

Also, if you're planning on running on hard packed clay, I would save your rims for a proper set of tires like Bowties... The stock ones aren't really good for hard packed clay...

the bigger bearings last much longer. its an all around upgrade instead of just for the toe in. you also get an added hole for the ball stud placement. as you can see from my setup sheet i had to make a 4th hole location there. ;)

For those adding weight to the rear, Proline Split Six rims add 1.2oz per side.

Associated SC10 wheels/Proline Bow-Tie SC tires: 3.8oz. each
Proline Split Six wheels/Proline Bow-Tie SC tires: 5.0oz each

I can't glue the Bow-Tie tires to the Associated rims for the life of me, keep getting some severely unbalanced tires due to glue getting where I don't want it, so I switched to the Split Six rims. Haven't been to the track yet to see the difference the weight makes, but I haven't added any weight to my chassis yet either.