shorten the wheelbase. Add some more rear toe and also a couple deg of antisquat to the rear as well.

shorten the wheelbase. Add some more rear toe and also a couple deg of antisquat to the rear as well.

I love that battery strap! looking to do something like as well. How did you graft them together?

I started by making the 2 sides ( the same height as your body clips) and bending them to flow with the body. You cut out little notches that fit around the side bumpers. Then you put one big piece of plastic on the top and notch and bend down tabs to meet the side panels and put little screws to hold them together. Put little pieces of Velcro on the bottom in the back to hold it to your chassis to help keep dirt out. I also made a on and off switch extension so I don't have to take the inter body off to turn the power on & off. I used .020 Lexan to make this. Hope this helps
Attachment 461094

Attachment 461095

Attachment 461096

Attachment 461097

Attachment 461098

I also made a on and off switch extension so I don't have to take the inter body off to turn the power on & off. Attachment 461099

Battery brace
 

This is made out of hollow square brass tubing soldered together. There is brass wire inside hollow tubing for the swivel in the rear and the wire goes in (cut in half servo mounts). I used shock shaft limiters for spacers to get the right height. I cut the head off the screws and cut a slot in them with a dremel cut off wheel so I could screw them in with a screw driver. Works real good. You can use regular thumb screws caps in front, I used red wing mounts for thumbs caps ( longer and easer to grab). Hope this helps. If you want a shiny look you can polish the brass
Attachment 461106

Attachment 461107

speeddaddy......thanks for the pics and instructions.

i like the stiffeners for the nerf bars too, old sway bars and hardware, nice !!
intuition is the mother of invention

I havent received it yet. Still waiting on it. Here is a thread by the guy that made them to begin with:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...at-blocks.html

I have one on my SC10 and using the stock tires with NO siping, cutting, or other tread work I finished 2nd against others running the jconcepts Goose Bumps.

How do you add a couple degrees of antisquat? Do you put washers underneath the rear toe-in block. If so, what is the conversion from millimeters in washers to degrees of antisquat?

Cant you run the shims underneath the rear arm block like in the B4's??? I havent tried it yet but i have some shims for my B4 i should try them.

The sc10 block comes built in with 2 degrees of anti-squat whereas the b4/t4 blocks do not.

Unless your trying to free the rear end up from the extra toe in.

Less not more...anti-squat gives more rear traction while accellerating on a slippery or dusty track.
It also gives more side-bite.
Less anti-squat will make the car accellerate better and faster through bumpy sections.
Very little anti-squat (0° or 1°) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.

So if I'm running on a very dusty/slippery track add anti-squat? If so how much?

No run less antisquat. Check this site out. Print out the Quick Reference Guide
and take it to the track.
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/