davew- did you try any brand spring on truggy yet ? let me know aobut it

Who bashes with this here?

I had an E-Revo with dual VXL motors. The C- Diff is locked (there is no diff, only slipper) and I had 50K front and rear. I ran 3S to each motor and speeds were 48 MPH and I had no issues at all. Except one minor crack in a bulkhead but I have jumped on MX tracks, overshot the landing and landed upside down and also landed one tire and cartwheeled it.

If I went 50/100/50 or 50/50/50 in the diffs to mirror what I was used to and for the terrain I'd be in, is the diffs going to like it? I run in open gravel and abandoned lots. No tracks.
I bought the 8T cause the E-Revo Brushless w MMM has issues. Motor mount is weak, bulkheads crack and are a PITA to replace, and if the diff does go its and all day affair. Not a fan of a plastic chassis that everything bolts to and strips out easily.

Are there any comparisons of electric conversion kits - RC Monster vs Tekno vs AE?

Thanks..

i keep blowing shock caps off i upgraded to the metal with bleeder hole didnt help are you guys just ditching these shocks and upgrading shocks?

If youre using the plastic shock bodies, the aluminum caps will still blow off. The FT threaded shock bodies and the aluminum caps together will solve your problem...

anyone try a gray tape inside truggy tries ? what size of gray tape ?

Has anybody tryed out the outside hole on the plastic rear hubs (Longer camber link) with the stock tower hole setting ?

Taztal: No that was just a Monster truck tire thing because they dint have a center diff. With E-Truggys ive never heard of anybody doing it if the front tires are ballooning to much than try heavyer center diff or turn off the punch control.

Outside hole feels pretty lazy and loose... unpredictable through ruts/whoops on power.

Oh ok thanks im guessing i should stick with the inside hole on the hub than .
I dint think it would make it lazy though the manuel said that it will give you more grip and will not be as responsive .

I do have my rear shocks layed down and the shock position in the inside hole the stock setting on the RC8TCE. I tried to mount the stocks in the inside hole on the arms but when it broke traction it would get really loose !

Alright i need some help here im having a pushing out of the turn problems im i only does it on some corners at the track i race with . Im using Soft I-Beams on the front and Soft City blocks on the rear. Im thinking that the I-Beams on the front are causing my Tekno V4 RC8T. To push out the corners i had to really use my brakes to get it to stop and rotate.


Im running 1/2 deg of toe out on the front end and 1/2 degree negative camber on the front end and 1 degree of negative camber on the rear end. And 14 degree caster .

Ride height on the front 40mm and the rear end 43mm . Even at lower ride height on the front end like around 36mm it did help a little bit not completly. The front shocks have 40w and the rear have 35 w maybe 37 1/2 on the rear could help maybe or more droop on the front end.


Than again maybe i should use Soft City blocks on the front end also that could really help.

The dirt is smooth with clay gets dry and moist at times .

The 14 deg caster may be your problem. It takes away from your on power steering. Try more caster. Have you messed with the rear toe or camber links?

Oh i see now i was thinking about that one ! The rear toe is stock and the camber links are in the stock position on the tower.
I did try out the upper hinge pin hole on the plastic rear hubs it did help a little bit.

I just bought a Tekin 2000kv. I have an RX8. What gearing should I start at?

48 - 18
work good for me
using 4 cell bateries

Im wondering if its the Soft I-beams/ soft city blocks causing it also ?