I know i use the Tekno v4 motor mount on my but i might be looking at the 8.2e motor mount if it works on the Tekno chassis. It could take some weight off for sure.

But the Tekno v4 motor mount has its advantages.

The best thing to do if you want to lighten the truck is the 8.2 light weight outdrives and the Carbon shock towers/plastic spur gear. But lighter rims will make a big diffrence in weight for sure !

So the light out drives fit yeah I know it might have buy light towers top carbon fiber brace too to reduce the weight

Have you thought bce chassis used conversion kit then

Now you dont want to make the truck to light but i know the 8.2 lightweight outdrives they sell them as a front/center/rear there diffrent somehow in size.

They make a carbon fiber brace who ?

I never tried the BCE chassis but its not a electric chassis so the balance could be quite off.

Yea I just trying to get same weight as mbx6t Eco

Narrow hubs totally changed the truck. I cant believe loslng 20mm total width made that huge of a difference. :eek:

Black springs front, in on arm and out on tower feels GREAT with silver springs rear, out on arm and out on tower. Can you say stable? Went back to silver bar front and gold bar rear.

I think im gonna drill one hole out on the front tower for the black springs for the race tomorrow.

The track was really rutty during practice from all the rain we had... and traction was mixed... but as long as i avoided the deep ruts comin on the straight (read: drainage gutter lol) it was great everywhere else.

This coming week im gonna cut the back corners of the chassis like the 8.2 buggy... and see how that helps/hurts consistency.

[email protected]

I took pix of a diff housing off my buggy (bought it used) that needed replacement. Where the crosspins drop in... there was a lot of slop. We can compare pix that way to see how yours looks.

Im also gonna share something ive been doing that seems to work well. When i build a diff, just before i add diff fluid... i add a drop of GM Synchromesh gear oil (used in superchargers and transmissions) on each crosspin at the gear. None of my truck diffs exhibit the wear on the crosspins that my buggy diffs had when i rebuilt them.

If you dont wanna source/spend the $ on the GM product... your local auto parts store will likely carry a close equivalent in a yellow bottle made by Pennzoil. Its called Synchromesh as well... but doesnt have the friction modifier native to the GM product. Its also half the cost per quart. ;)

I've been looking at that as a viable option as well. I Def. would like to see some reviews, but its a contender for sure.


SO!

Smoked a servo (Hitec ) and I can't figure out what went wrong. I have 2 2s 6200 20c lipo taped together and wired into my Hobbywing Brushless ESC EZRUN-80A. (sorta seen here (stock photo) http://www.redcatracing.com/eq8e18.jpg

So its set up with dual plugs going into the ESC. I don't think it will be the problem since many people are running 2 batteries instead of a single 4s.

My Hitec clearly got very hot and the 965MG servo melted and stopped working. Tonight, I was digging thru my box of spare electronics trying to find a good servo and came across a Hitec 645MG servo. Plugged it in, had the truck propped up and carefully started to test it. after less than 5 min the case on my 645MG started to heat up as well.

WTF!!!!! I see some people are talking about the BEC and I wonder if this will fix my issue? The HW setup is temporary until I can spring for a NICE BL system. (Leaning toward LRP or maybe the Orion one). I may swap it all out to my 8BE once I finish making it a 8.2, but this servo thing is frustrating. I tried looking for a max voltage input thinking maybe this was an older servo and it couldn't take the lipo, but that seems unlikely.


MOmo

Ya'll think there is any chance of a RC8T.2E anytime soon? I really want to buy a truggy that's already electric out of the box instead of buying a CE and doing a conversion.

daveW - picture sent let me know you got the picture of diff house ?

Doubtful.....

i am still wait for dave W repone about diff house that all

My antivirus suggested i shouldnt open your email... said it could have malicious content. :(

Try posting it to the site... or use a third party site like Photobucket. ;)

My truggy was great the first qualifier (TQ'd). So I decided to eff with the gearing and play with my RX8 settings. I swapped from my 50 spur to a 46.

I found out my 16 pinion was too small and let the motor hit the rear center brace endcup... and i couldnt get it close enough for proper mesh. I didnt have a 17 pinion on hand, so i asked around and borrowed an 18 pinion. Knowing i was already on the warm side of things with my 50/16, i pulled 4 on timing and went for a few laps. Holy schnikies...

I cant imagine what a 2600kv would feel like on 4s. I ran the second qually like that and speedo got to 200d after 6 minutes... and motor was only 140d. I had waaay too much power... but the powerband felt great.

So for the main i went back to the 50 spur and left the 18 pinion... dropped the current limiter to 80 and pulled 2 more on timing.

Come to find out i really liked this ESC/motor setup... but the track changed and my truggy was so loose i couldnt add power anywhere. I tagged the brakes once and did a complete 360! So my main went from consistent no mistake laps to spending some time on the pipe and on my lid... and finished 2nd in the main.

God i feel like an idiot. Took a perfectly good thing and effed with it, and forgot to pay attention to track conditions! :flaming:

Cant win em all i guess...

The way they differ in size is the fronts are a lot longer than the centers or rears.