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I would call up some of the smaller online shops to see if any are in stock. Most likely there are quite a few on shelves or in the warehouse. The bigger guys, like Tower, are definitely out of them.
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Can some one post track set up's. I havent been able to find them on rc10.com or here.
Im looking for differnt / more common diff oil combos, as well as shock oil weights too. Just to get a rough idea for a better starting point. |
I converted my SC8 with some parts from my nitro RC8 to brushless
Its geared at 46/15 with the 2200 MMM combo. the motor is running hot, around 170F after 10-15mins. Should I gear down or get a heat sink? I run on a pretty long track, I have a 56T spur from my nitro RC8 but according to the speed calculator I don't think it would be fast enough for my track with the 56T. Anybody running a 56T spur? |
Originally Posted by funkhouser
(Post 7650700)
I converted my SC8 with some parts from my nitro RC8 to brushless
Its geared at 46/15 with the 2200 MMM combo. the motor is running hot, around 170F after 10-15mins. Should I gear down or get a heat sink? I run on a pretty long track, I have a 56T spur from my nitro RC8 but according to the speed calculator I don't think it would be fast enough for my track with the 56T. Anybody running a 56T spur? Stick with the 46 spur. |
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conversion
That's a really clean conversion.Nice.:nod:
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Getting a RC8TE this week. What is the best set up for this truck?
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Originally Posted by rcracenut
(Post 7697338)
Getting a RC8TE this week. What is the best set up for this truck?
I running the stock set up with just a few little changes. Front&rear shock oil = 35wt front diff=7,000 center diff=15,000 rear diff=5,000 rear camber set 0deg with camber link at the inner hole on the rear hub front camber -2deg toe is -2deg running FT steering knuckels,rear hubs, f/r threaded shocks,carbon fiber f/r shock towers,short wheel hubs This set for me is very good on smooth and semi rough tracks with a light loom on it . Hope this helps some. |
Thanks!
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yea, would agree with PB the stock set up is pretty good to start.....
the main thing it seems like to me with the AE cars now is the "Tires" so check what most of your "Locals" at your track are running, this will help allot :) and like PB said, you might have to do little changes in your set up for example on both of mine i have a RC8TCE for nitro and one for "Electric" i run box stock on both and on one i run full rebound on the shocks and the other i run 1/2 rebound thats it? now one of the cool parts about the trucks for the AE ones is the little changes will make big differences, so be sure to "Try" stock set up first! then if there is a "Need" just do one small change at a time, Associated really did there "HomeWork" on this line of cars, oddly enough you come to find is that you wont find too many set up sheets?? because there is not really too many you'll need? the truck is pretty "Neutral" and good to go out of the box :) the only downside? probally be the drooling you'll be doing while driving! cause you'll be having a grip of fun ;) |
Originally Posted by OG RC 10T
(Post 7650278)
Can some one post track set up's. I havent been able to find them on rc10.com or here.
Im looking for differnt / more common diff oil combos, as well as shock oil weights too. Just to get a rough idea for a better starting point. for the RC8T :) if so the stock set up is pretty good, usually seems "Tires" are the biggest change factor. but on average the 7,7,7 is a good place to start for diffs if the set up is pretty good but there is just a tiny bit more steering your looking for say for example just give it a hair more toe out or if the set up is great but need just a hair more rear traction then lower the rear cambe link "One" hole at a time shock oils, well there is a tough one? will depend allot on the track? is there allot of smaller bumps or mogols etc.? is it hard packed,but little bit of loose dirt on top,but basicaly "Smooth" with more open throttle sweepers? and "Flowing Jumps" or is the track rutty (or more like Holes in ground) with sharp ends in the ruts? now the cool part you already have 2 kinds of shocks on the cars already! run the stock oil as recommended,but first try the Non-Rebound set up where you bleed out the shock for no "Air" fill shock then push up the piston almost to top then slowly screw on cap this is non-rebound run car, then remove shocks, slightly refill them, but do not push up the piston,fill the cap "Almost" to top then put cap on and "Slowly" twist on cap allowing the air to escape this is "Full Rebound" and the car/truck will have a compleat different feel, but more common seems for a good majority of tracks "On Average" will be the 1.1 x 10 pistons on 30 wt. or the 1.3 x 6 on 35 wt. :) |
anybody running 18/54?
over geared? |
I finally found a gently used RC8Te for sale! Im so siked! It just has a bent front dogbone and some chassis scratches. Anyone have a place they shop for parts that is usually in stock? Tower Hobbies is your 'backorder' source...
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Originally Posted by DaveW
(Post 7755543)
I finally found a gently used RC8Te for sale! Im so siked! It just has a bent front dogbone and some chassis scratches. Anyone have a place they shop for parts that is usually in stock? Tower Hobbies is your 'backorder' source...
Originally Posted by funkhouser
(Post 7703270)
anybody running 18/54?
over geared? |
Losi Parts Warehouse seems to stock quite a bit as well. I just placed an order with them. I got sticker shock when i looked at tire prices for this thing. :eek:
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