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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-15-2010, 07:41 AM
  #3436  
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Originally Posted by pmes
Actual pics are up instead of CAD drawings:
http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/desc410r/

The industry needs to come out with beefier saddle packs, those 550s guzzle the juice.
I have mine pre-ordered at my hobby shop ! Can`t wait !
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by R-E-A-P-E-R-
Inferno is that an RS or a RS Pro
Sorry, I was away for a couple days. My friend and I have RS Pro's in em. I took mine out for test runs Saturday and it was fine, no heat issues for the entire battery in a tight indoor track. The fan is a bit close and was rubbing the motor leads on the esc so i unplugged it and ran again with similar results of no overheating issues.
I have remounted the fan further from esc and on an angle pointing away from center of car. Once I get onto a larger track I will be trying gearing options. The tight indoor place I went with a 21 tooth pinion to stock spur and it was perfect so i am thinking 22 or 23 should be great on a more open track.
Randy, I am not yet sure why his car is overheating but I am thinking due to the extreme amount of traction on the blue groove track he ran on and gearing he was probably stressing it on bottom end and top end. The cars driveline rolls silky smooth and there isn't any binding so chances are its just a lot of amp draw. He said the motor wasn't too hot but esc was.
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by INFERN0
Once I get onto a larger track I will be trying gearing options. The tight indoor place I went with a 21 tooth pinion to stock spur and it was perfect so i am thinking 22 or 23 should be great on a more open track.
Randy, I am not yet sure why his car is overheating but I am thinking due to the extreme amount of traction on the blue groove track he ran on and gearing he was probably stressing it on bottom end and top end. The cars driveline rolls silky smooth and there isn't any binding so chances are its just a lot of amp draw. He said the motor wasn't too hot but esc was.
Anytime I see high esc temps vs. low motor temps I look at wheel spin. Also you're theory that he's bogging down the motor is also possible. Again I'd like to know what esc settings he's using. Motor timing is also a factor so where's the motor timed?
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:48 AM
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I will have to find out where he is set at. I will also see what his endbell timing is or was at. I am running similar settings to your 208 online Vegas 4mod set up so I'll compare with his and get back to ya.
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:09 PM
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Who makes an aluminum servo arm for an AE servo? Stripped out another plastic one at Sunday practice
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Konich
Who makes an aluminum servo arm for an AE servo? Stripped out another plastic one at Sunday practice
Racer's Edge, I believe, and AE has their own FT blue one correct?

BTW, Tresrey already shipped the aluminum bits all the way from Japan. Scary fast shipping!!!
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:55 PM
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^^True, I'll have to dig through my old gas stuff tonight.
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:14 PM
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eh danger did you get your parts on tresrey.com? if so did u email them just to be sure they'll ship over us?! thx dude!
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mccoy
eh danger did you get your parts on tresrey.com? if so did u email them just to be sure they'll ship over us?! thx dude!
Here is what I did . . .

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8196313-post3336.html
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:16 PM
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thx for your help danger!
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:24 PM
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Finally completed my build this weekend and look forward to racing it wed! Just have to change over to a Micro Rx so it will fit better and clean up the long wiring from components. So looking forward to this car, what a build!
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:29 PM
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Had the car for one week of racing so far and wondering what is the best way of adjusting all the tierods on the car. It was a pain because everytime i try to adjust they pop off. Has anyone tried different ends or do i need to replace the ends and the rods.
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by coryip
Had the car for one week of racing so far and wondering what is the best way of adjusting all the tierods on the car. It was a pain because everytime i try to adjust they pop off. Has anyone tried different ends or do i need to replace the ends and the rods.
Most local Durango racers in, Kansas City, area replaced tie rods, ball cups and ball studs with any of the better brands. Just built my car this weekend and forgot to order these parts...waiting for them to arrive this week. I agree, getting them adjusted was a pain.
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by coryip
Had the car for one week of racing so far and wondering what is the best way of adjusting all the tierods on the car. It was a pain because everytime i try to adjust they pop off. Has anyone tried different ends or do i need to replace the ends and the rods.
Take them apart and put some grease on the threads and put back together , makes it much easier to adjust and don`t pop off .
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by coryip
Had the car for one week of racing so far and wondering what is the best way of adjusting all the tierods on the car. It was a pain because everytime i try to adjust they pop off. Has anyone tried different ends or do i need to replace the ends and the rods.
Seems like plenty, if not all, of the guys at our local track are happy with the stockers. I hear greasing the ends before threading them into the plastic helps a lot when adjusting later.
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