3LikesTekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread
05-26-2011, 11:51 AM
05-26-2011, 09:12 PM
05-27-2011, 02:19 PM
whelp: Randy Pike... LOL.... I ordered an extra speed control and a motor. just spent another 160.00 plus another 450.00 at A Main to make sure when I travel any amount of miles to a race, I am covered no mater what. I know stuff breaks, but when its new, you expect it to last more then 10 min after the build.. I really love the support that Tekin has and will continue to use there products. your right.,... My Bad,. I was wrong in the postage amount. it was 18.00 three times for UPS and a tracking number to go with it plus insurance in case they lost the thing.. Gee that never happens...Now... I feel so much better knowing I got a back up.. Now... I should get another car to go with the back ups... How would you suggest I clean and check the motor.. ? is there any type of spray you think I need to buy and would it hurt to take it apart and wash it down with cleaner. I don't want this happening again if I can do maintenance without warranty issues. Thanks
05-27-2011, 02:32 PM
Chucko I agree with most of what your saying. My point is that if you're racing at the level it sounds like you are by travelling abroad to big events you should be carrying spares. Many of us that travel to large events carry spare esc's, motors, servos, receivers,etc.
Heck my DX3r just bought the farm and I had to pull out my old M8 and run crystals last night. Things break.
Typical motor maintenance is all that's required for optimal performance. Here's a how to video:
Heck my DX3r just bought the farm and I had to pull out my old M8 and run crystals last night. Things break.
Typical motor maintenance is all that's required for optimal performance. Here's a how to video:
| + YouTube Video | |
05-28-2011, 04:10 PM
Trying to decide between putting bullets on my RX8 or attempt soldering to the posts again. I am ok at soldering, deans, traxxas plugs...etc I am ok at.
But for the life of me I am messing up the soldering on these posts. I followed the video got the wires crimped and soaked. Once I get solder in the posts I can't seem to get the solder to melt again. So I can never get the wire down into the post.
I am using 60/37 solder and a team checkpoint station. It seems even at 800 or so I still have to hold the iron on the solder so much longer than in the videos. Can I be over cooking the solder?
But for the life of me I am messing up the soldering on these posts. I followed the video got the wires crimped and soaked. Once I get solder in the posts I can't seem to get the solder to melt again. So I can never get the wire down into the post.
I am using 60/37 solder and a team checkpoint station. It seems even at 800 or so I still have to hold the iron on the solder so much longer than in the videos. Can I be over cooking the solder?
05-28-2011, 07:00 PM
Trying to decide between putting bullets on my RX8 or attempt soldering to the posts again. I am ok at soldering, deans, traxxas plugs...etc I am ok at.
But for the life of me I am messing up the soldering on these posts. I followed the video got the wires crimped and soaked. Once I get solder in the posts I can't seem to get the solder to melt again. So I can never get the wire down into the post.
I am using 60/37 solder and a team checkpoint station. It seems even at 800 or so I still have to hold the iron on the solder so much longer than in the videos. Can I be over cooking the solder?
But for the life of me I am messing up the soldering on these posts. I followed the video got the wires crimped and soaked. Once I get solder in the posts I can't seem to get the solder to melt again. So I can never get the wire down into the post.
I am using 60/37 solder and a team checkpoint station. It seems even at 800 or so I still have to hold the iron on the solder so much longer than in the videos. Can I be over cooking the solder?
I use the following technique to solder my RX-8s and it works perfectly:
Strip 1/8" insulation of the wire, twist it tightly and tin it. At this point it is too big to fit in the slot (assuming you are using 12 guage). Squeeze the tinned wire in a vise until it just fits in the slot (no play or free space).
Put some high quality paste flux in the slot, and on the end of the wire. Slide it in the slot. Make sure there is flux on the top of the wire where you will hit it with the iron.
Add a little bit of solder to the iron. about 1/8" of .063 or the equivalent. Touch that solder on the iron to the top of the wire in the slot. The flux on the wire cleans off the solder so you get good heat transfer.
That teensy bit of solder then flows onto the wire, heats up the solder post and tins it (remember: no space between the wire and the sides of the slot). It should take no more the 2-3 seconds to make the joint with a good iron.
Given that you already have solder in the slots, get some solder wick and remove it. (Solder wick is copper braid that, when properly fuxed and heated with the iron will soak up melted solder in an instant).
Solder wick: http://www.google.com/products/catal...5144633652029#
I keep banging on the idea of proper use of flux and I've posted the above technique a number of times. It is slightly different from the one the Tekin recommends but works very well.
While not an RX-8, this is the kind of joints one can get from proper use of flux:
05-28-2011, 07:03 PM
It is hard to imagine you having those kind of problems unless you are not using sufficient flux.
I use the following technique to solder my RX-8s and it works perfectly:
Strip 1/8" insulation of the wire, twist it tightly and tin it. At this point it is too big to fit in the slot (assuming you are using 12 guage). Squeeze the tinned wire in a vise until it just fits in the slot (no play or free space).
Put some high quality paste flux in the slot, and on the end of the wire. Slide it in the slot. Make sure there is flux on the top of the wire where you will hit it with the iron.
Add a little bit of solder to the iron. about 1/8" of .063 or the equivalent. Touch that solder on the iron to the top of the wire in the slot. The flux on the wire cleans off the solder so you get good heat transfer.
That teensy bit of solder then flows onto the wire, heats up the solder post and tins it (remember: no space between the wire and the sides of the slot). It should take no more the 2-3 seconds to make the joint with a good iron.
Given that you already have solder in the slots, get some solder wick and remove it. (Solder wick is copper braid that, when properly fuxed and heated with the iron will soak up melted solder in an instant).
Solder wick: http://www.google.com/products/catal...5144633652029#
I keep banging on the idea of proper use of flux and I've posted the above technique a number of times. It is slightly different from the one the Tekin recommends but works very well.
While not an RX-8, this is the kind of joints one can get from proper use of flux:
I use the following technique to solder my RX-8s and it works perfectly:
Strip 1/8" insulation of the wire, twist it tightly and tin it. At this point it is too big to fit in the slot (assuming you are using 12 guage). Squeeze the tinned wire in a vise until it just fits in the slot (no play or free space).
Put some high quality paste flux in the slot, and on the end of the wire. Slide it in the slot. Make sure there is flux on the top of the wire where you will hit it with the iron.
Add a little bit of solder to the iron. about 1/8" of .063 or the equivalent. Touch that solder on the iron to the top of the wire in the slot. The flux on the wire cleans off the solder so you get good heat transfer.
That teensy bit of solder then flows onto the wire, heats up the solder post and tins it (remember: no space between the wire and the sides of the slot). It should take no more the 2-3 seconds to make the joint with a good iron.
Given that you already have solder in the slots, get some solder wick and remove it. (Solder wick is copper braid that, when properly fuxed and heated with the iron will soak up melted solder in an instant).
Solder wick: http://www.google.com/products/catal...5144633652029#
I keep banging on the idea of proper use of flux and I've posted the above technique a number of times. It is slightly different from the one the Tekin recommends but works very well.
While not an RX-8, this is the kind of joints one can get from proper use of flux:
05-28-2011, 07:41 PM
It is hard to imagine you having those kind of problems unless you are not using sufficient flux.
I use the following technique to solder my RX-8s and it works perfectly:
Strip 1/8" insulation of the wire, twist it tightly and tin it. At this point it is too big to fit in the slot (assuming you are using 12 guage). Squeeze the tinned wire in a vise until it just fits in the slot (no play or free space).
Put some high quality paste flux in the slot, and on the end of the wire. Slide it in the slot. Make sure there is flux on the top of the wire where you will hit it with the iron.
Add a little bit of solder to the iron. about 1/8" of .063 or the equivalent. Touch that solder on the iron to the top of the wire in the slot. The flux on the wire cleans off the solder so you get good heat transfer.
That teensy bit of solder then flows onto the wire, heats up the solder post and tins it (remember: no space between the wire and the sides of the slot). It should take no more the 2-3 seconds to make the joint with a good iron.
Given that you already have solder in the slots, get some solder wick and remove it. (Solder wick is copper braid that, when properly fuxed and heated with the iron will soak up melted solder in an instant).
Solder wick: http://www.google.com/products/catal...5144633652029#
I keep banging on the idea of proper use of flux and I've posted the above technique a number of times. It is slightly different from the one the Tekin recommends but works very well.
While not an RX-8, this is the kind of joints one can get from proper use of flux:
I use the following technique to solder my RX-8s and it works perfectly:
Strip 1/8" insulation of the wire, twist it tightly and tin it. At this point it is too big to fit in the slot (assuming you are using 12 guage). Squeeze the tinned wire in a vise until it just fits in the slot (no play or free space).
Put some high quality paste flux in the slot, and on the end of the wire. Slide it in the slot. Make sure there is flux on the top of the wire where you will hit it with the iron.
Add a little bit of solder to the iron. about 1/8" of .063 or the equivalent. Touch that solder on the iron to the top of the wire in the slot. The flux on the wire cleans off the solder so you get good heat transfer.
That teensy bit of solder then flows onto the wire, heats up the solder post and tins it (remember: no space between the wire and the sides of the slot). It should take no more the 2-3 seconds to make the joint with a good iron.
Given that you already have solder in the slots, get some solder wick and remove it. (Solder wick is copper braid that, when properly fuxed and heated with the iron will soak up melted solder in an instant).
Solder wick: http://www.google.com/products/catal...5144633652029#
I keep banging on the idea of proper use of flux and I've posted the above technique a number of times. It is slightly different from the one the Tekin recommends but works very well.
While not an RX-8, this is the kind of joints one can get from proper use of flux:
I am still pretty new to the whole soldering thing and one think I forget still is actually tinning the iron a bit, which might explain why I can not seem to get heat transfer to solder I got into the posts.
I also think i might need a new tip. Any easy way to tell if its shot or not. I think I read somewhere that I you can get replacement tips which will fit the hakko at habor freight. Anyone know if thats true???
Thanks again for all the info....
05-28-2011, 08:50 PM
Thanks!! Lots of good info here. I have not been using flux, its on of those frustrating things. Some people in the forums say use flux while others say the solder already has flux in it and is not needed. I think I wil try it with these posts like you suggest since I am having no lot right now.
I am still pretty new to the whole soldering thing and one think I forget still is actually tinning the iron a bit, which might explain why I can not seem to get heat transfer to solder I got into the posts.
I also think i might need a new tip. Any easy way to tell if its shot or not. I think I read somewhere that I you can get replacement tips which will fit the hakko at habor freight. Anyone know if thats true???
Thanks again for all the info....
I am still pretty new to the whole soldering thing and one think I forget still is actually tinning the iron a bit, which might explain why I can not seem to get heat transfer to solder I got into the posts.
I also think i might need a new tip. Any easy way to tell if its shot or not. I think I read somewhere that I you can get replacement tips which will fit the hakko at habor freight. Anyone know if thats true???
Thanks again for all the info....
The best flux I have found in recent years is Rubyfluid paste flux. You can get it here: http://www.doitbest.com/Solders+and+...sku-333892.dib and you can have it shipped to a local store for pickup at no charge.
Lots of guys will tell you not to use plumbing type flux on electronics. If you were soldering ICs and transistors I would agree. But for motor/ESC wires it is not a problem.
Tinning the iron is of utmost importance. If you can't get it shiny with solder you will get poor heat transfer.
I don't know anything about Hakko tips to tell you if it is good or not. I use a weller 4033S soldering iron.
05-29-2011, 12:52 PM
Thank You for that video Randy Pike.. great information.
I will be doing that as races go.
Just got my extra parts. hope every one had a great memorial weekend.
I will be doing that as races go.
Just got my extra parts. hope every one had a great memorial weekend.
05-29-2011, 01:21 PM
Yes, most solder we use has flux in it, but the flux can't get out to do its job unless the solder is melted. And there is no way it will work its way in between the solder post and the wire unless you use too much solder for the job.
The best flux I have found in recent years is Rubyfluid paste flux. You can get it here: http://www.doitbest.com/Solders+and+...sku-333892.dib and you can have it shipped to a local store for pickup at no charge.
Lots of guys will tell you not to use plumbing type flux on electronics. If you were soldering ICs and transistors I would agree. But for motor/ESC wires it is not a problem.
Tinning the iron is of utmost importance. If you can't get it shiny with solder you will get poor heat transfer.
I don't know anything about Hakko tips to tell you if it is good or not. I use a weller 4033S soldering iron.
The best flux I have found in recent years is Rubyfluid paste flux. You can get it here: http://www.doitbest.com/Solders+and+...sku-333892.dib and you can have it shipped to a local store for pickup at no charge.
Lots of guys will tell you not to use plumbing type flux on electronics. If you were soldering ICs and transistors I would agree. But for motor/ESC wires it is not a problem.
Tinning the iron is of utmost importance. If you can't get it shiny with solder you will get poor heat transfer.
I don't know anything about Hakko tips to tell you if it is good or not. I use a weller 4033S soldering iron.
I had the posts packed solid with solder and I just could not get the solder out using the wick. It sucked up a little, but nowhere near enough to make it possible for the wire go into the post slots. I thought about using bullets but can fit bullets on all five posts without touching. Anyway, after all the work trying to get the solder out and resorting to bad solutions out of frustration the posts are pretty much shot.This is a hobby for me, something that is tons of fun and a way to de-stress from normal everyday life and these posts where driving me crazy. So, I have to use another option, no choice now really. I have a MMM/2200 combo or the MMM/1900 T8 combo as my only choices now. I am leaning towards using the 1900 still, even though it will not be censored. Good Idea??
I want to make it clear this has nothing to do with Tekin products!!! This is all on me and my lack of superior soldering skills. I have dual Tekin setup in my XR10 and a Tekin setup in my Honcho as well and love the stuff.
Just wanted to make that clear and say thanks again for all your help. Maybe I will give it another shot later on after more soldering practice. Hopefully on less expensive stuff…
05-29-2011, 02:17 PM
You are not out of options yet! You should try a de-soldering bulb too. Think turkey baster for solder. Also, solder is pretty soft, don't be afraid to file out the excess with a jewler's file.
A friend I spoke with today gave me an idea for conectors that might be applicable for this too, he strips his 12g wire using the 14g setting on his stripper/plier to remove some wire volume, allowing him to fit heavier wire into a smaller socket.
A friend I spoke with today gave me an idea for conectors that might be applicable for this too, he strips his 12g wire using the 14g setting on his stripper/plier to remove some wire volume, allowing him to fit heavier wire into a smaller socket.
05-29-2011, 02:21 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (72)
Rx8 no lights
I recently installed a Rx8 in my sc. I tried it out and decided to connect it with my hotwire. After I did the changes and hit apply, I had no lights.
I connected it to the hot wire again and still no lights. Any tips? I also tried to re-set it holding down the 2 buttons for 3 secs... no luck. Any tips? I have ran 4 packs through the esc. Thanks in advance.
I connected it to the hot wire again and still no lights. Any tips? I also tried to re-set it holding down the 2 buttons for 3 secs... no luck. Any tips? I have ran 4 packs through the esc. Thanks in advance.
05-30-2011, 10:51 AM
Desoldering the posts is easy. Simply heat up the posts while the esc is upside down then once the solder flows give it a light tap on the table. All the solder will come out.
Tinning is CRITICAL when soldering anything. Even though your iron setting is 800f a bad tip will not get this hot. Tips do go bad.
It should be as easy as it is in the video if your iron is up to temp and you're using good 60/40 solder. I never have found the need to add flux to my soldering jobs.
Tinning is CRITICAL when soldering anything. Even though your iron setting is 800f a bad tip will not get this hot. Tips do go bad.
It should be as easy as it is in the video if your iron is up to temp and you're using good 60/40 solder. I never have found the need to add flux to my soldering jobs.
05-30-2011, 10:53 AM
I recently installed a Rx8 in my sc. I tried it out and decided to connect it with my hotwire. After I did the changes and hit apply, I had no lights.
I connected it to the hot wire again and still no lights. Any tips? I also tried to re-set it holding down the 2 buttons for 3 secs... no luck. Any tips? I have ran 4 packs through the esc. Thanks in advance.
I connected it to the hot wire again and still no lights. Any tips? I also tried to re-set it holding down the 2 buttons for 3 secs... no luck. Any tips? I have ran 4 packs through the esc. Thanks in advance.