3LikesTekin RX8 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC Thread
05-30-2009, 08:11 PM
#2116
It connects between the load and the source, so in our case, between the battery and the ESC. Mine came with deans plugs because I ordered it that way but it also comes with just bare wires which I now wish I had gotten(would have made install easier).
The RPM sensor is just a wire that connects to one phase of the motor. The temperature sensor is just a little thermocouple. I have it screwed in on the T8 motor similar in fashion to the sensor wire holder.
I'm on vacation now and Ill post up a pic of the whole setup when I get back, but to give you a general idea, I have the data logger ziptied over the center diff in my 8ight 2.0. The battery and esc both connect to this.
If you are running 4s I would recommend the 200 amp version though. I have seen spikes on mine up to 105 amps, but luckily they are not sustained.
The RPM sensor is just a wire that connects to one phase of the motor. The temperature sensor is just a little thermocouple. I have it screwed in on the T8 motor similar in fashion to the sensor wire holder.
I'm on vacation now and Ill post up a pic of the whole setup when I get back, but to give you a general idea, I have the data logger ziptied over the center diff in my 8ight 2.0. The battery and esc both connect to this.
If you are running 4s I would recommend the 200 amp version though. I have seen spikes on mine up to 105 amps, but luckily they are not sustained.
05-30-2009, 08:25 PM
#2117
To see what version you're running click "show version" . This will show what is in the esc and what is available on your computer.
To get the latest version you can go here:
www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html
If you have 198 on your computer(and you should if you have an RX8) you would see the 1s check box.
NW is the dead band setting in the esc. Going too low can cause no drag brakes, delayed arming, and an over sensitive throttle.
I do not like to see anyone lower than 10. Most good radios "can" go to MIN but you run the risk of not allowing proper function. We can see a much narrower window that most radios can give us.
When you change this setting also make sure to re calibrate your esc, just to be sure it's seeing your current nuetral.
To get the latest version you can go here:
www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html
If you have 198 on your computer(and you should if you have an RX8) you would see the 1s check box.
NW is the dead band setting in the esc. Going too low can cause no drag brakes, delayed arming, and an over sensitive throttle.
I do not like to see anyone lower than 10. Most good radios "can" go to MIN but you run the risk of not allowing proper function. We can see a much narrower window that most radios can give us.
When you change this setting also make sure to re calibrate your esc, just to be sure it's seeing your current nuetral.
05-30-2009, 08:54 PM
#2119
I saw a different type of failure at practice today. Instead of the shaft falling out of the rotor block, the magnets fell off the rotor block. Has anyone else seen this type of failure. It happened after about 2 laps and the motor was no more than 90 degrees if that. It just appears that the magnets were not glued onto the rotor piece. 
05-30-2009, 08:54 PM
#2120
Tech Rookie
Well I got to race my new D8 with RX8 2050 buggy combo today for the first time. The power is crazy and super smooth. My motor was 140-145 after the 5min heats and 165 after the 20 min main. For the main I turned the epa down to 90% on my radio. The esc came off after every race with the fan running and with 2 or 3 lights, I have it geared at 48/18 but I'm not sure if this is really the correct gearing or not. I got the hotwire but have not hooked it up yet. If there are any ideas of where I can go with my gearing or what to adjust once I hook the hotwire up.
Today we only had 2 electric 1/8 buggies there so we ran with the nitros. Durning the heats (with the epa up) I could beat the nitros but once the main came and turned the epa down I couldn't hang with them anymore, half due to me drivings slower to make sure my battery made the entire 20 main. I finished 4th out of 7 in the A main missing 3rd by 33 secs which is a little under what it takes to run one lap. I put on a great show for the RX8 that was for sure. Again if there is any help on my setup that would be great.
Thanks
Today we only had 2 electric 1/8 buggies there so we ran with the nitros. Durning the heats (with the epa up) I could beat the nitros but once the main came and turned the epa down I couldn't hang with them anymore, half due to me drivings slower to make sure my battery made the entire 20 main. I finished 4th out of 7 in the A main missing 3rd by 33 secs which is a little under what it takes to run one lap. I put on a great show for the RX8 that was for sure. Again if there is any help on my setup that would be great.
Thanks
Last edited by tazman592; 05-30-2009 at 09:07 PM.
05-30-2009, 09:19 PM
#2121
NW is the dead band setting in the esc. Going too low can cause no drag brakes, delayed arming, and an over sensitive throttle.
I do not like to see anyone lower than 10. Most good radios "can" go to MIN but you run the risk of not allowing proper function. We can see a much narrower window that most radios can give us.
I do not like to see anyone lower than 10. Most good radios "can" go to MIN but you run the risk of not allowing proper function. We can see a much narrower window that most radios can give us.
05-30-2009, 10:00 PM
#2122
I saw a different type of failure at practice today. Instead of the shaft falling out of the rotor block, the magnets fell off the rotor block. Has anyone else seen this type of failure. It happened after about 2 laps and the motor was no more than 90 degrees if that. It just appears that the magnets were not glued onto the rotor piece.
05-30-2009, 10:08 PM
#2124
Yes as needed.......btw, go to Revelation tomorrow I will be there with my Tekin setup and 8ight!
05-31-2009, 06:38 AM
#2127
kufman, really seems to be a problem with the gluing process at their factory overseas then. Again, quality control seems to be the issue. I'm hoping Tekin Prez, Randy, TY, or anyone who represents Tekin can answer my original question one page back as to why SINTERED ROTORS were not included with these high powered motors? Will it be a future upgrade and alternative option part that Tekin plans to sell? I recently asked some guys who own the MMM system and according to them their Mamba motors have SINTERED ROTORS. This doesn't mean they never have any failures... but I'll bet their percentage is much lower than Bonded Rotors especially for this particular application and the loads they are under. I hope someone from Tekin can chime in directly on this as well as letting us know if there is any indication on their packaging that points to updated and upgraded T8 Motors which apparently have: "hydraulic press fit and should be a lot stronger." Having that on the packaging will at least give customers who eventually buy them extra peace of mind. So far at least, Tekin's transparency and customer service speaks volumes of the overall character of the company which has been very reassuring.
NEUs use the same bondad rotor... I wouldn't be supriesd if they accualy fit in the tekin motors.
05-31-2009, 07:41 AM
#2128
I saw a different type of failure at practice today. Instead of the shaft falling out of the rotor block, the magnets fell off the rotor block. Has anyone else seen this type of failure. It happened after about 2 laps and the motor was no more than 90 degrees if that. It just appears that the magnets were not glued onto the rotor piece.
Exactly what happened to mine....
05-31-2009, 10:46 AM
#2129
stupid @$$ fan...
it thermaled on me today it was even an itty bitty novak 4.5 HV...
whats the recomended fan??
it thermaled on me today it was even an itty bitty novak 4.5 HV...whats the recomended fan??
05-31-2009, 11:36 AM
#2130
I bought a Spektrum Telemetry unit a few years back and never used it. Now I'm thinking it might be a good idea to run it for a Temperature warning. It vibrates when it hits your preset temperature threshold. I'm trying to decide if I should run it on the motor or the ESC. I'm thinking the ESC right now in case the fan goes out and the ESC starts to thermal. I typically gear for correct heat on the motor, so I'm a little less worried about that.
If I decide to run it on the ESC, what would be an optimal setting so that I have plenty of warning to pull over but, not so low that I'm constantly pulling over for non-emergencies?
Any ideas?
If I decide to run it on the ESC, what would be an optimal setting so that I have plenty of warning to pull over but, not so low that I'm constantly pulling over for non-emergencies?
Any ideas?