Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread
05-10-2012, 09:12 PM
#7412
I have an older Hakko 926 iron. Very similar to the hobby versions sold with skins and all that on A-Main and your LHS.
05-11-2012, 10:24 AM
#7413
Ok, so I bought a used losi buggy. I was told it was a 2.0 rtr nitro that was converted to electric. The buggy has the blue aluminum shock towers, single hole rear chassis brace mount....the chassis was a brushed aluminum, guy said it was originally blue but he stripped it to paint a different color.
So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.
So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.
So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
05-11-2012, 10:50 AM
#7414
I just bought a new iron - Hakko 888, which I think is a great replacement for the discontinued 926. I'd highly recommend this. Past iron was an Ungar solder station which was fine, but just getting old (15 or so years old).
05-11-2012, 10:52 AM
#7415
Ok, so I bought a used losi buggy. I was told it was a 2.0 rtr nitro that was converted to electric. The buggy has the blue aluminum shock towers, single hole rear chassis brace mount....the chassis was a brushed aluminum, guy said it was originally blue but he stripped it to paint a different color.
So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.
So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.
So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
So it very well could have been a 2.0 nitro originally.
(It's Friday; trying to be positive today!)
05-11-2012, 11:57 AM
#7416
Hakko 926's are nice. I'm pretty sure those TrakPowers that so many have are just rebadged Hakkos 926s, or similar.
I just bought a new iron - Hakko 888, which I think is a great replacement for the discontinued 926. I'd highly recommend this. Past iron was an Ungar solder station which was fine, but just getting old (15 or so years old).
I just bought a new iron - Hakko 888, which I think is a great replacement for the discontinued 926. I'd highly recommend this. Past iron was an Ungar solder station which was fine, but just getting old (15 or so years old).
I have the Hakko FX888 in my A-Main Wishlist and have a buddy that just bought one & is the way to go for $100!
05-11-2012, 12:40 PM
#7417
05-11-2012, 03:22 PM
#7419
OK we drive the ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE, why are we talking SOLDERING IRONS AHHHHHHH lmao..... No really what the heck!
How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
05-11-2012, 03:30 PM
#7420
OK we drive the ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE, why are we talking SOLDERING IRONS AHHHHHHH lmao..... No really what the heck!
How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
05-11-2012, 05:54 PM
#7423
OK we drive the ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE, why are we talking SOLDERING IRONS AHHHHHHH lmao..... No really what the heck!
How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
It's also something you can use for years and can use on other projects. For $85 or so over an x year period, it something that pays itself back.
05-11-2012, 06:33 PM
#7424
You don't see guys with Ferarris using Home Depot wrenches! No, but really - when I first raced RC when I was 18 or so, I used junky tools. Hex wrenches would round, my hex heads got all screwed up and I ended up fighting with too many things that should have been routine. Same for soldering - for an electric buggy, it sure is nice to have a good solder joint that won't fail .. and to be able to unsolder/de-solder to work on it.
It's also something you can use for years and can use on other projects. For $85 or so over an x year period, it something that pays itself back.
It's also something you can use for years and can use on other projects. For $85 or so over an x year period, it something that pays itself back.
05-11-2012, 07:49 PM
#7425
Ok, so I bought a used losi buggy. I was told it was a 2.0 rtr nitro that was converted to electric. The buggy has the blue aluminum shock towers, single hole rear chassis brace mount....the chassis was a brushed aluminum, guy said it was originally blue but he stripped it to paint a different color.
So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.
So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.
So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
2.0 chassis is longer than 1.0, you need the cvd bone from a 2.0