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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 05-10-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77 View Post
any drive shafts and the shock mounts, and diff out drives look at the bearings
So basically all the common places you would normally look.
Still contemplating whether i should sell my pede 4x4 to get the funds for the buggy.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77 View Post
hey man i burned up a charger the other night? so what do u use, and a iron?
i had a icharger 106b, i need another 1-10 amp charger. then my soldering iron has had it, its 12yrs old ungar)
I have a Hyperion Super Duo 3. Awesome charger--very expensive. I have heard to check out the Hobbywing (?) as can charge 4 batts at a time.

I have an older Hakko 926 iron. Very similar to the hobby versions sold with skins and all that on A-Main and your LHS.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:24 AM
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Ok, so I bought a used losi buggy. I was told it was a 2.0 rtr nitro that was converted to electric. The buggy has the blue aluminum shock towers, single hole rear chassis brace mount....the chassis was a brushed aluminum, guy said it was originally blue but he stripped it to paint a different color.

So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.

So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
I have a Hyperion Super Duo 3. Awesome charger--very expensive. I have heard to check out the Hobbywing (?) as can charge 4 batts at a time.

I have an older Hakko 926 iron. Very similar to the hobby versions sold with skins and all that on A-Main and your LHS.
Hakko 926's are nice. I'm pretty sure those TrakPowers that so many have are just rebadged Hakkos 926s, or similar.

I just bought a new iron - Hakko 888, which I think is a great replacement for the discontinued 926. I'd highly recommend this. Past iron was an Ungar solder station which was fine, but just getting old (15 or so years old).
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by scotty-j View Post
Ok, so I bought a used losi buggy. I was told it was a 2.0 rtr nitro that was converted to electric. The buggy has the blue aluminum shock towers, single hole rear chassis brace mount....the chassis was a brushed aluminum, guy said it was originally blue but he stripped it to paint a different color.

So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.

So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?
I don't think the 2.0 ever had the shorter chassis. However, it could very well be that he pulled a chassis from a electric 1.0 (that was upgraded to 2.0) and used it on his nitro to convert it to electric.

So it very well could have been a 2.0 nitro originally.

(It's Friday; trying to be positive today!)
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Hakko 926's are nice. I'm pretty sure those TrakPowers that so many have are just rebadged Hakkos 926s, or similar.

I just bought a new iron - Hakko 888, which I think is a great replacement for the discontinued 926. I'd highly recommend this. Past iron was an Ungar solder station which was fine, but just getting old (15 or so years old).
+1

I have the Hakko FX888 in my A-Main Wishlist and have a buddy that just bought one & is the way to go for $100!
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
+1

I have the Hakko FX888 in my A-Main Wishlist and have a buddy that just bought one & is the way to go for $100!
i found this one on e-bay Weller 80 Watt Stained Glass Lightweight Pencil Soldering... 75.88 $$
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77 View Post
i found this one on e-bay Weller 80 Watt Stained Glass Lightweight Pencil Soldering... 75.88 $$
Seems reasonable. The tip on that is huge (probably for stained glass) so make sure you can get smaller tips . . .
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:22 PM
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OK we drive the ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE, why are we talking SOLDERING IRONS AHHHHHHH lmao..... No really what the heck!

How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
OK we drive the ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE, why are we talking SOLDERING IRONS AHHHHHHH lmao..... No really what the heck!

How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
i run 5-7-2 love it!!!!!i want the alum rear hubs, the only thing i can think of is then dont wear out as quick???? and the caster is 20.
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77 View Post
i run 5-7-2 love it!!!!!i want the alum rear hubs, the only thing i can think of is then dont wear out as quick???? and the caster is 20.
20* man i might grab the more affordable 12* aluminum caster and spindle and gain at least more steering then the the stock....any opinions on this move? Anyone?
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
20* man i might grab the more affordable 12* aluminum caster and spindle and gain at least more steering then the the stock....any opinions on this move? Anyone?
This is my 4th year running this buggy and never have run anything but the stock plastic in the rear as I never had an issue. I would definitely get on those inclined spindles . . .
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing View Post
OK we drive the ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE, why are we talking SOLDERING IRONS AHHHHHHH lmao..... No really what the heck!

How needed are the rear aluminum hubs vs the plastic? what degree are the stock casters? thanks guys.... Oh is anyone running anything other than 5/7/2 on their diff setups?
You don't see guys with Ferarris using Home Depot wrenches! No, but really - when I first raced RC when I was 18 or so, I used junky tools. Hex wrenches would round, my hex heads got all screwed up and I ended up fighting with too many things that should have been routine. Same for soldering - for an electric buggy, it sure is nice to have a good solder joint that won't fail .. and to be able to unsolder/de-solder to work on it.

It's also something you can use for years and can use on other projects. For $85 or so over an x year period, it something that pays itself back.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
You don't see guys with Ferarris using Home Depot wrenches! No, but really - when I first raced RC when I was 18 or so, I used junky tools. Hex wrenches would round, my hex heads got all screwed up and I ended up fighting with too many things that should have been routine. Same for soldering - for an electric buggy, it sure is nice to have a good solder joint that won't fail .. and to be able to unsolder/de-solder to work on it.

It's also something you can use for years and can use on other projects. For $85 or so over an x year period, it something that pays itself back.
I built a FM pirate radio with mine in college!
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty-j View Post
Ok, so I bought a used losi buggy. I was told it was a 2.0 rtr nitro that was converted to electric. The buggy has the blue aluminum shock towers, single hole rear chassis brace mount....the chassis was a brushed aluminum, guy said it was originally blue but he stripped it to paint a different color.

So, i want to upgrade the buggy so i bought the losi 2.0 e chassis and bolted it in. Now the center rear cvd is too short. So i put the new chassis on top of the old chassis and you can see the new one is slightly longer than the old one. I ordered the 2.0 e buggy center rear cvd and installed it and it fits perfect, just a little longer than the cvd that was in there.

So, my question is: was there ever a 2.0 buggy with a shorter chassis? Or did i get scammed?

2.0 chassis is longer than 1.0, you need the cvd bone from a 2.0
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