2LikesTekno Conversions Thread
11-23-2010, 02:58 PM
#4546
All of our clutch systems are MOD1 so I'm guessing you are asking about the 2-shoe vs. the 3-shoe. The 3-shoe is a couple mm longer, but both of them can be run in the same position. You may need to cut the motor shaft about 1/8" so the 3-shoe can sit farther back. What kit is this for?
I cannot run the Mod1 clutch in the same position as the 2shoe, as the mod1 rubs up against the brake server.
I was looking at the motor mount plates & seeing as they are shorter one way & longer the other, (shorter end suits the 2shoe) if the motor mount plates are screwed onto the chassis in the longer position, would this be suitable for the mod1 clutch?
I really dont see myself cutting the motor shaft.. im yet to see a post with someone doing this
Last edited by Dr freedom; 11-23-2010 at 04:26 PM.
11-23-2010, 04:08 PM
#4547
Tekno is there any chanche to have a bigger battery tray for the MBX6 buggy kit for those who do not follows the roar rules?? At least a longer one...
Thanks in advance..
Thanks in advance..
11-23-2010, 05:29 PM
#4549
Got my v4 mbx6 pre order today! Thanks TeknoRC
11-23-2010, 06:59 PM
#4551
I run the 2 shoe clutch/ v3 8T 1.0 kit
I cannot run the Mod1 clutch in the same position as the 2shoe, as the mod1 rubs up against the brake server.
I was looking at the motor mount plates & seeing as they are shorter one way & longer the other, (shorter end suits the 2shoen longer end suits teh long shank pinions) if the motor mount plates are screwed onto the chassis in the longer position, would this be suitable for the mod1 clutch?
I really dont see myself cutting the motor shaft.. im yet to see a post with someone doing this
Tekno?
I cannot run the Mod1 clutch in the same position as the 2shoe, as the mod1 rubs up against the brake server.
I was looking at the motor mount plates & seeing as they are shorter one way & longer the other, (shorter end suits the 2shoen longer end suits teh long shank pinions) if the motor mount plates are screwed onto the chassis in the longer position, would this be suitable for the mod1 clutch?
I really dont see myself cutting the motor shaft.. im yet to see a post with someone doing this
Tekno?
11-23-2010, 07:11 PM
#4552
11-23-2010, 07:41 PM
#4553
I run the 2 shoe clutch/ v3 8T 1.0 kit
I cannot run the Mod1 clutch in the same position as the 2shoe, as the mod1 rubs up against the brake server.
I was looking at the motor mount plates & seeing as they are shorter one way & longer the other, (shorter end suits the 2shoe) if the motor mount plates are screwed onto the chassis in the longer position, would this be suitable for the mod1 clutch?
I really dont see myself cutting the motor shaft.. im yet to see a post with someone doing this
I cannot run the Mod1 clutch in the same position as the 2shoe, as the mod1 rubs up against the brake server.
I was looking at the motor mount plates & seeing as they are shorter one way & longer the other, (shorter end suits the 2shoe) if the motor mount plates are screwed onto the chassis in the longer position, would this be suitable for the mod1 clutch?
I really dont see myself cutting the motor shaft.. im yet to see a post with someone doing this
You can always put the plates in the rear position as you describe. Cutting the shaft is no big deal, I've cut dozens of shafts and some cars/motors require it (Ve8). Again, no big deal, just get a new cutting disc on your Dremel, use a steady hand, and wear eye protection. Take your time if you decide to go that route.
11-23-2010, 07:59 PM
#4554
OK, I think I see what you are saying now. You may need to grind the center diff mount. It's been so long since we used the 2-shoe clutch. The 3-shoe bells have a larger diameter and some gear ratios need some grinding to be done to fit. If you're running 13/48 or 14/48 chances are you will need to grind the center diff mount a little for clearance. Again, they are both MOD1 bells, FYI.
You can always put the plates in the rear position as you describe. Cutting the shaft is no big deal, I've cut dozens of shafts and some cars/motors require it (Ve8). Again, no big deal, just get a new cutting disc on your Dremel, use a steady hand, and wear eye protection. Take your time if you decide to go that route.
You can always put the plates in the rear position as you describe. Cutting the shaft is no big deal, I've cut dozens of shafts and some cars/motors require it (Ve8). Again, no big deal, just get a new cutting disc on your Dremel, use a steady hand, and wear eye protection. Take your time if you decide to go that route.
My question though is in line with the 2nd part of your reply.. its to do with the length of the 2shoe v 3shoe & clearance.
The 2shoe has a nice gap in front of it & doesnt touch the brake servo,
the 3shoe has no gap & touches the servo.
I will turn the engine mount plates around to see if it saves having to cut the shaft, I guess though in the end if it doesnt, them im cutting it (I dont have any probs cutting stuff up, just I didnt want to cut the motor, thats all)
Thanks for your answers though .. its semi convinced me to cut if required.
My last query is when I prepaid for the Losi truggy yesterday, it says:
Tekno RC V4 Brushless Kit for Losi 8T (truggy, 1.0/2.0, for 42mm motors)
My stupid mate has thrown a spanner into the works for me by asking if its the 1.0 or 2.0 chassis?
Help?
Last edited by Dr freedom; 11-23-2010 at 09:15 PM.
11-23-2010, 09:05 PM
#4555
I run 13/48 & I had to grind the centre diff mount to get the 2shoe bell to fit.. thats no biggie I guess, it was plastic shaving at its finest
My question though is in line with though is the 2nd part of your reply.. its to do with the length of the 2shoe v 3shoe & clearance.
The 2shoe has a nice gap in front of it & doesnt touch the brake servo,
the 3shoe has no gap & touches the servo.
I will turn the engine mount plates around to see if it saves having to cut the shaft, I guess though in the end if it doesnt, them im cutting it (I dont have any probs cutting stuff up, just I didnt want to cut the motor, thats all)
Thanks for your answers though .. its semi convinced me to cut if required.
My last query is when I prepaid for the Losi truggy yesterday, it says:
Tekno RC V4 Brushless Kit for Losi 8T (truggy, 1.0/2.0, for 42mm motors)
My stupid mate has thrown a spanner into the works for me by asking if its the 1.0 or 2.0 chassis?
Help?
My question though is in line with though is the 2nd part of your reply.. its to do with the length of the 2shoe v 3shoe & clearance.
The 2shoe has a nice gap in front of it & doesnt touch the brake servo,
the 3shoe has no gap & touches the servo.
I will turn the engine mount plates around to see if it saves having to cut the shaft, I guess though in the end if it doesnt, them im cutting it (I dont have any probs cutting stuff up, just I didnt want to cut the motor, thats all)
Thanks for your answers though .. its semi convinced me to cut if required.
My last query is when I prepaid for the Losi truggy yesterday, it says:
Tekno RC V4 Brushless Kit for Losi 8T (truggy, 1.0/2.0, for 42mm motors)
My stupid mate has thrown a spanner into the works for me by asking if its the 1.0 or 2.0 chassis?
Help?
11-23-2010, 10:23 PM
#4556
This is it for tonight.
11-23-2010, 10:28 PM
#4557
11-23-2010, 11:37 PM
#4558
I got V3 but this setup looks tighter but I did notice the different springs but can't make out the color your using in the rear too clearly. Plus what other changes are being used in the pictured rig (diff oil, shock oil, etc...)?
Another question is in this pic both braces are seen. Could you run the Losi with no braces as you've stated before with the other platforms with the V4?
Just looking to get some info before I upgrade to the V4, Thanks for your time Tekno.
P.S. I can honestly say that I tried 2 other conversions before getting the V3 and your conversion was the one that stayed. Got the Slash 4X4 stuff and those parts keep coming back for more as well. The durability and quality of the products you offer makes it easy to support your company.
11-24-2010, 01:10 AM
#4559
