wyd

iTrader: (51)

Because you are not taking the chance that an electronic device could malfunction. It is always better to check stuff. It is added protection. The lipo cutoffs are not a falesafe but just a last resort IMO. For me I would rather run for 10 minutes and put the pack on my charger to see what the voltage is at than ruin my $100 plus lipo because it has a lipo cutoff.

I know are shop has checked many brands that offer lipo cutoff and the voltages vary greatly as when they cutoff so again is just added protection to check the pack voltage from time to time instead of waiting for the lipo cutoff to work.

shurcooL

Why not do both then?

If you're gonna check yourself, does it do any harm to leave the cut-off on just in case?

Besides, doesn't Lipo voltage go down when it's under high load? I know that's the case for NiMH, and I know the effect is much more subtle for Lipos, but I'm sure it's still there, right?

What I mean is, by the time you bring your car to a stop, take off the body and measure the voltage, it might be higher than what it was when you were giving it full throttle all the time.

Stallard

Thanks for all the input guys,

I think I have it figured out, after much testing. seems my combo works best with the cutoff set at 6.7v. At that setting I can feel a real differance when the cutoff kicks in and it leaves the packs at around 6.5v. Just what I am looking for!!


One of the problems is that the system makes so much HP it is hard to tell when the batt is getting a little soft. When I put in a lighter motor it should be easyer to spot.

I must say though that I am really impressed with the Mamba Max system. It has a ton of power, the software is very easy to use and the ability to customize the ESC to suit my style is second to none that I have used in 25+ years of racing.

I was also impressed with the fact that I have never felt any cogging, even running some pretty crappy packs. The one thing I would change is to add the ability to have 2 (or more) profiles you could set in the ESC and toggle between in the field.


Lockhart

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

good luck with it, only prob is usually down to makin too much power.

R

JLinney

iTrader: (6)

Oh yeah, "Power to the People"

meowdog

Hi, just wanna make sure, even when the car is rolling backwards and i punch the throttle for it to go forward, there is still no cogging?

met a guy at a local drift meet and he's using the sidewinder. even after the latest update, he could still feel e cogging when going from reverse to forward.

Sorry, just wanna be sure before making such a big investment.

Stallard

Going from reverse to forward I have never felt it cogging but honestly I have only used reverse a couple of time (As a racer I always forget it is there).

I would think you could get a little cogging doing that though as I have felt a tiny bit of it even with my sensored stuff.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

You might get some on occasion but alot has to do with good batteries as well. I seen all systems cogg on occasion, even sensored systems but it normally is batteries, esc setup is off some, or a sensor wire is cracked or frayed some.

Ed237

iTrader: (11)

I have a Sidewinder 4600 and it doesnt cog, but there was a slight delay with the base program.

I reduced the deadband, removed some punch control, and added some drag brake and now it feels a lot like my GTB did.