Competitive 17.5 in a 2wd buggy? Soon...very soon.
08-25-2008, 01:19 PM
#152
I had an opportunity to run my truck this weekend with the Turbo installed. I've noticed when I throttle up in a hard corner I get a bark from my car (running 17.5BL). Is a truck too heavy for this thing and my diff is slipping??? My spur appears to be ok - no missing teeth. Anybody else had any similar problems??? I've always run my slipper tightened completely and never experieced the bark before.
08-26-2008, 09:53 PM
#156
Man...I'm going crazy up here in SLO...no interweb...I have to hide in a coffee shop parking lot after hours...no cable...
Anyways...LOL...I ran my J82 last weekend with a 17.5 and it worked really well. I think I had it geared at 6.3-something (6.32?). It was plenty warm, but not too bad and it was really nice in the infield, plenty of punch and plenty of speed on the straight.
I could easily hang with the fast guys all the way around-- notwithstanding my utter lack of driving prowess of course.
I was getting some grief for having the "wrong" motor (they thought it was a 13.5) until I busted out the ROAR nats sticker and the yellow ring. 
Anyways...LOL...I ran my J82 last weekend with a 17.5 and it worked really well. I think I had it geared at 6.3-something (6.32?). It was plenty warm, but not too bad and it was really nice in the infield, plenty of punch and plenty of speed on the straight.
I could easily hang with the fast guys all the way around-- notwithstanding my utter lack of driving prowess of course.
I was getting some grief for having the "wrong" motor (they thought it was a 13.5) until I busted out the ROAR nats sticker and the yellow ring.
09-17-2008, 12:48 PM
#157
Just a lil FYI
ok so I just got mine today and thought id share some info.
all weight done on a fresh calibration and my scale seems to be reasonably accurate to .1 tenth of a gram and can weight as little as 5 grains
the stock slipper disks for AE weigh 6.0 grams (without pads)
Stock kimbrough 81 tooth gear = 4.1 grams
Losi 76 tooth = 3.4 grams
Robinson Precision delrin 85 tooth = 3.7 grams
reason i added this was i found it has a nice fit on the eliminater and this gives more options for those that need them
Speedtech slipper eliminator = 2.6 grams "thick" washer = .3 grams
'thin" washer = 5 grains ( would not register grams)
each 3mm screw = .3 grams for .6 total
Speedtech 65 tooth = 2.8
thats a total of 3.6 grams ( in my case) of ROTATIONAL weight saved ( OMG)
Nice job
Our local track is SUPER HIGH TRACTION and i am sure this will test durability. i dont forsee any probs as these are well machined and have good fitment.
all weight done on a fresh calibration and my scale seems to be reasonably accurate to .1 tenth of a gram and can weight as little as 5 grains
the stock slipper disks for AE weigh 6.0 grams (without pads)
Stock kimbrough 81 tooth gear = 4.1 grams
Losi 76 tooth = 3.4 grams
Robinson Precision delrin 85 tooth = 3.7 grams
reason i added this was i found it has a nice fit on the eliminater and this gives more options for those that need them
Speedtech slipper eliminator = 2.6 grams "thick" washer = .3 grams
'thin" washer = 5 grains ( would not register grams)
each 3mm screw = .3 grams for .6 total
Speedtech 65 tooth = 2.8
thats a total of 3.6 grams ( in my case) of ROTATIONAL weight saved ( OMG)
Nice job
Our local track is SUPER HIGH TRACTION and i am sure this will test durability. i dont forsee any probs as these are well machined and have good fitment.
09-17-2008, 05:09 PM
#158
Thank you.
We've been running them pretty hard for several months now and I haven't heard of any stripped anything so far. One of my "beta testers" says he had to go through the diff a little more often than he used to...but he's REALLY meticulous. Really fast...and really picky.
IMO, it's a small price to pay for the
look you get when you tell people it's a 17.5. 
We've been running them pretty hard for several months now and I haven't heard of any stripped anything so far. One of my "beta testers" says he had to go through the diff a little more often than he used to...but he's REALLY meticulous. Really fast...and really picky.
IMO, it's a small price to pay for the
look you get when you tell people it's a 17.5.
09-18-2008, 12:14 PM
#159
Thank you.
We've been running them pretty hard for several months now and I haven't heard of any stripped anything so far. One of my "beta testers" says he had to go through the diff a little more often than he used to...but he's REALLY meticulous. Really fast...and really picky.
IMO, it's a small price to pay for the look you get when you tell people it's a 17.5.
We've been running them pretty hard for several months now and I haven't heard of any stripped anything so far. One of my "beta testers" says he had to go through the diff a little more often than he used to...but he's REALLY meticulous. Really fast...and really picky.
IMO, it's a small price to pay for the
look you get when you tell people it's a 17.5.
09-18-2008, 12:53 PM
#160
I have run against many folks using Turbo's adapter.. and I must say are they fast! I only have to worry about the guys that can really drive though...
I raced before slipper clutches and there was a big difference in handling when they came about. Suddenly the field got a lot more competitive because of the improved handling.
Turbo - maybe you should look at making "Turbo" topshafts so folks can utilize their slipper clutches too!
I'm sure the next generation of vehicles will take into consideration the needs of brushless racers.
Jerome
09-18-2008, 01:28 PM
#161
I have given some thought to other options, but those are pretty spendy. A top shaft by itself doesn't really change anything, what you would need would be a wholly redesigned slipper and spurs...or a new internal gearset to raise the internal ratio. Changing one gear isn't possible without either changing all the gears or changing the tranny case.
09-18-2008, 11:46 PM
#162
Just had a thought that if one was so inclined you could drill a hole through the shaft for a roll pin. Use the old ae b3/t3 slipper which will take whatever spur you want.
09-19-2008, 05:35 PM
#163
Turbo -
The slipper does quite a bit in tuning for traction and turning.. It is also one of the easiest adjustments to make! It is also often the most overlooked.....
Like I said.. I raced before there were slipper clutches.. and they have seemed to be around in stock racing for at least the last 15 years.. they must do something! It is a tuning option I like to use often..
You can race without one.. makes the car a lot twitchier.. Now with the low rpm 17.5, I know they have to spool up to get to the power band but then it's a sudden pop of torque... this has to be taken by the diff.. and if it is tightened to not "bark" then it transfers to the tires.. and then you have a power spike that can break you loose.. This is similar to how a 2 stroke nitro motor's power band jumps 20% all of a sudden at about 20% in the throttle pull. It's not linear power like most brushed electrics are.
Ever notice with nitro racing how they pump the throttle all the time in the corners? This is to make up for the un-even powerband and traction problems they have. They too have there diffs extremely tight and clutches out of wack... you cant hear them.. so they are difficult to adjust. Most of the nitro guys these days have never run an electric.. so they don't even have a reference point..
Don't get me wrong... I think your adapter is great and fills some of the gap between the new motor technology and older car designs... There is some give and take though....
One of the great things about this hobby for most of us tinkerers.. The cars are infinatley tunable!
Have fun!!
Jerome
The slipper does quite a bit in tuning for traction and turning.. It is also one of the easiest adjustments to make! It is also often the most overlooked.....
Like I said.. I raced before there were slipper clutches.. and they have seemed to be around in stock racing for at least the last 15 years.. they must do something! It is a tuning option I like to use often..
You can race without one.. makes the car a lot twitchier.. Now with the low rpm 17.5, I know they have to spool up to get to the power band but then it's a sudden pop of torque... this has to be taken by the diff.. and if it is tightened to not "bark" then it transfers to the tires.. and then you have a power spike that can break you loose.. This is similar to how a 2 stroke nitro motor's power band jumps 20% all of a sudden at about 20% in the throttle pull. It's not linear power like most brushed electrics are.
Ever notice with nitro racing how they pump the throttle all the time in the corners? This is to make up for the un-even powerband and traction problems they have. They too have there diffs extremely tight and clutches out of wack... you cant hear them.. so they are difficult to adjust. Most of the nitro guys these days have never run an electric.. so they don't even have a reference point..
Don't get me wrong... I think your adapter is great and fills some of the gap between the new motor technology and older car designs... There is some give and take though....
One of the great things about this hobby for most of us tinkerers.. The cars are infinatley tunable!
Have fun!!
Jerome
09-19-2008, 06:04 PM
#164
Brushless *is* linear...brushed isn't. Brushed motors are softer off the bottom, while the brushless motors have power output that's directly proportional to the throttle input. 50% throttle is 50% power.
Feel free to run a slipper...feel free to feel that it makes you faster. My cars aren't twitchy (buggy or truck)...and I've never heard anyone tell me that taking the slipper out makes a car twitchy with a 17.5. In fact, the guys I talked to when I came up with this deal all told me that they had always just locked it out in stock. So while they *had* a slipper on board, they weren't using it...they were just carrying it around.
RC guys tend to think everything is important...and not everything is important in every class or in every situation. Some things can definitely be tossed overboard for things that are *more* important.
See you Saturday!
Feel free to run a slipper...feel free to feel that it makes you faster. My cars aren't twitchy (buggy or truck)...and I've never heard anyone tell me that taking the slipper out makes a car twitchy with a 17.5. In fact, the guys I talked to when I came up with this deal all told me that they had always just locked it out in stock. So while they *had* a slipper on board, they weren't using it...they were just carrying it around.
RC guys tend to think everything is important...and not everything is important in every class or in every situation. Some things can definitely be tossed overboard for things that are *more* important.
See you Saturday!
09-19-2008, 06:09 PM
#165
Has anyone tried to use a RC10, B2, B3 top shaft in a B4 gear box? I do not have a B4 to see if it will fit. If it does then you can use the top shaft and the B3 slipper.
Also when the MIP 3 gear was out. This was before the stealth tranny came out. It did not have a slipper. You used the diff to adjust slip. This was the normal way to adjust slip. Even when the JRX2 cam out. There was not a slipper on the 6 gear tranny. Back in the day we use to melt a lot of diff gears
Also when the MIP 3 gear was out. This was before the stealth tranny came out. It did not have a slipper. You used the diff to adjust slip. This was the normal way to adjust slip. Even when the JRX2 cam out. There was not a slipper on the 6 gear tranny. Back in the day we use to melt a lot of diff gears