New ACADEMY 1/10 scale 2WD BUGGY
#3421
I just rebuilt my first diff with the rings. This is a diff with ceramic diff balls that felt decent previously, more friction but not full on gritty.
With the new rings, I have it tighten down pretty good and its BUTTER smooth.
I am going to build another diff using standard balls and see how that compares.
With the new rings, I have it tighten down pretty good and its BUTTER smooth.
I am going to build another diff using standard balls and see how that compares.
#3425
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Have you checked the bearings out thoroughly.We had one of ours get a noisy tranny. Replaced all the gears , still noisy.Went through the bearings and one of the outdrive bearings would spin free, but had a couple 'ticks' in it at higher rpms.I just happened to notice it spinning the tranny over by hand after I had re-assembled it for the 3rd time.I sorted out which bearing it was, replaced it, and it was back to quiet as a whisper.
#3426
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Have you checked the bearings out thoroughly.We had one of ours get a noisy tranny. Replaced all the gears , still noisy.Went through the bearings and one of the outdrive bearings would spin free, but had a couple 'ticks' in it at higher rpms.I just happened to notice it spinning the tranny over by hand after I had re-assembled it for the 3rd time.I sorted out which bearing it was, replaced it, and it was back to quiet as a whisper.
#3427
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Real quick question, how readily available are parts for this Academy buggy?
This thread is gigantic and its hard to really find the answers I'm looking for. Kyosho is the brand of choice in my parts...and I'm always a fan of going against the grain, but if I can't get parts then it might not be worth it for me.
I don't mind having to order parts, as long as I can get them in a timely fashion.
Thanks in advance.
This thread is gigantic and its hard to really find the answers I'm looking for. Kyosho is the brand of choice in my parts...and I'm always a fan of going against the grain, but if I can't get parts then it might not be worth it for me.
I don't mind having to order parts, as long as I can get them in a timely fashion.
Thanks in advance.
#3429
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
#3431
Real quick question, how readily available are parts for this Academy buggy?
This thread is gigantic and its hard to really find the answers I'm looking for. Kyosho is the brand of choice in my parts...and I'm always a fan of going against the grain, but if I can't get parts then it might not be worth it for me.
I don't mind having to order parts, as long as I can get them in a timely fashion.
Thanks in advance.
This thread is gigantic and its hard to really find the answers I'm looking for. Kyosho is the brand of choice in my parts...and I'm always a fan of going against the grain, but if I can't get parts then it might not be worth it for me.
I don't mind having to order parts, as long as I can get them in a timely fashion.
Thanks in advance.
#3432
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Hey guys, went ahead and rebuilt my GV2 Buggy using some Diggity Designs parts. Looks good. Have some extra Diggity parts I won't be using so if you want them, let me know.
ok, here are my questions:
- Whats a good gearing starting point for a 13.5 motor (ballistic)?
- didn't notice this before but when I redid the shocks, I noticed that on uptravel the shaft must have been compressed a lot that it was causing the bladder to invert and be similar to an AE style setup on shocks, and one bladder it had punched threw. I went ahead since I like the bladder in stock configuration added some spacers to limit shock uptravel. Anyone else try this?
- For those using the diggity designs motor plate, what screw lengths did you settle on and did you then just locknut the screws to secure it?
All in all rebuild went great, changed a few screws from the stock types (button head 2mm to 2.5mm cap heads) and man its SO much easier to work with now.
I believe the SCT conversion should be in today, so will get that together too!
ok, here are my questions:
- Whats a good gearing starting point for a 13.5 motor (ballistic)?
- didn't notice this before but when I redid the shocks, I noticed that on uptravel the shaft must have been compressed a lot that it was causing the bladder to invert and be similar to an AE style setup on shocks, and one bladder it had punched threw. I went ahead since I like the bladder in stock configuration added some spacers to limit shock uptravel. Anyone else try this?
- For those using the diggity designs motor plate, what screw lengths did you settle on and did you then just locknut the screws to secure it?
All in all rebuild went great, changed a few screws from the stock types (button head 2mm to 2.5mm cap heads) and man its SO much easier to work with now.
I believe the SCT conversion should be in today, so will get that together too!
#3433
Hey guys, went ahead and rebuilt my GV2 Buggy using some Diggity Designs parts. Looks good. Have some extra Diggity parts I won't be using so if you want them, let me know.
ok, here are my questions:
- Whats a good gearing starting point for a 13.5 motor (ballistic)?
- didn't notice this before but when I redid the shocks, I noticed that on uptravel the shaft must have been compressed a lot that it was causing the bladder to invert and be similar to an AE style setup on shocks, and one bladder it had punched threw. I went ahead since I like the bladder in stock configuration added some spacers to limit shock uptravel. Anyone else try this?
- For those using the diggity designs motor plate, what screw lengths did you settle on and did you then just locknut the screws to secure it?
All in all rebuild went great, changed a few screws from the stock types (button head 2mm to 2.5mm cap heads) and man its SO much easier to work with now.
I believe the SCT conversion should be in today, so will get that together too!
ok, here are my questions:
- Whats a good gearing starting point for a 13.5 motor (ballistic)?
- didn't notice this before but when I redid the shocks, I noticed that on uptravel the shaft must have been compressed a lot that it was causing the bladder to invert and be similar to an AE style setup on shocks, and one bladder it had punched threw. I went ahead since I like the bladder in stock configuration added some spacers to limit shock uptravel. Anyone else try this?
- For those using the diggity designs motor plate, what screw lengths did you settle on and did you then just locknut the screws to secure it?
All in all rebuild went great, changed a few screws from the stock types (button head 2mm to 2.5mm cap heads) and man its SO much easier to work with now.
I believe the SCT conversion should be in today, so will get that together too!
I use the bladders down in stock form and always have. I use a 3mm spacer and an extra shock o ring to limit uptravel, no torn bladders.
on the motor plate, I used the screws that were supplied from Diggity and the nuts as well...they thread through the spur side with the nut on the tranny side...use loctite.
#3434
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
try gearing 74/26, I think that is in the ball park.
I use the bladders down in stock form and always have. I use a 3mm spacer and an extra shock o ring to limit uptravel, no torn bladders.
on the motor plate, I used the screws that were supplied from Diggity and the nuts as well...they thread through the spur side with the nut on the tranny side...use loctite.
I use the bladders down in stock form and always have. I use a 3mm spacer and an extra shock o ring to limit uptravel, no torn bladders.
on the motor plate, I used the screws that were supplied from Diggity and the nuts as well...they thread through the spur side with the nut on the tranny side...use loctite.
#3435
I will have to check the screws to see what size they are, will post.