Jason, Andy or PW, one of you, I've emailed you through Jconcepts contact system. I would like you to take a look at it immidiately. It's of the utmost urgency.

Email has been answered. Thanks for the quick reply :)

No problem, thank Allison (most likely) as she is the one who monitors the site emails.;)

Andy.. do yall sell a seperate undertray?

im liking the new site...nice job

Can't wait the tires! Sooo suspenseful, but surely worth the wait:nod:

Yep, probs to Allison for the speedo response :)

Lipo or not?
 

Hey guys I just picked up my worlds edition Bj4 today and was wondering if anyone has run lipos in this saddlepack style chassis and if so which ones fit the best as far as mounting them,Or is it worth it to run lipos in this buggy due to the decreased weight of them, ok I rambling here basically heres my questions.

Due they make lipos that fit this configuration?

Are lipos worth it ( being to light )?

Should you sand and C A this chassis ?

Thanks guys,This is my first kit car my others were all rtr and graphite.
I will be powering this with a 6.5 velocity motor with a sphere speedo.
I sure would appreciatte your comments. Thanks again Lee Cox

Li-Pos would be worth it, the max amps packs fit and I would sand and c a the chassis.

I can help you....some. I have heard of Lipo saddle packs. That is all I know about it. Being light might hurt rear traction.
Sanding the edges and glueing will make it look nicer, help make the edges smoother, and will help it from getting "dinged up" and start to delaminate from the edge.
The 6.5 will be a nice motor for the car!

You can add a little weight to the back of the car to get more traction.

You HAVE to add weight for the lipos. I tried it for shits and giggles without weight, and it was silly. No rear traction, and it was bouncing like a kangaroo on meth.

My brother added some tungsten wieghts below the rear driveshaft (4oz) to make up for the difference. I'm going to try to mold some lead weights to fit under the driveshaft as well. I'll just drill some holes in the chassis and tap out the weights.

You'll need some longer screws if you want to use the standard battery posts too.

Yes, #1046, it fits the original car, and with some trimming, the WE.

Thanks, we're trying to be a little innovative with things.

The cleanest setups Ive seen were ones where the molded battery tray was dremeled to accept the square LiPo pack.

A guy on another thread pointed me to it. I had looked right past it. Its on order with some groovy 2wd fronts. :)

Another nice way is to remove the tray, and use 3M DualLock velcro on the slots between the battery holes, and still use the battery strap.

The trays dremeled and the battery straps did not keep the lipos from moving around on mine.