494LikesJConcepts Thread
12-11-2013 | 04:17 AM
#6871
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 270
From: Black River Falls, WI.
Can't help with where since I don't have a 22, maybe someone in this thread knows and if not ask in the 22 SCT thread. For sure someone there will know.
For the next time though, mark where your holes should be on the over spray film before you paint. Much easier to line it up while its clear and unpainted.
You can try putting a dab of grease on the top of the posts and place the body to mark where you should ream. It won't be perfect, measure to square up your holes.
For the next time though, mark where your holes should be on the over spray film before you paint. Much easier to line it up while its clear and unpainted.
You can try putting a dab of grease on the top of the posts and place the body to mark where you should ream. It won't be perfect, measure to square up your holes.
12-11-2013 | 05:49 AM
#6873
Tech Elite
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,786
From: Groveland, FL
Front - the center outside holes/dimples.
Rear - the lower outside holes/dimples where the roll-bar is notched.
So I just got some green Bro Codes and I'm wondering why one of the sidewall sides is shiny and the other side is dull? I noticed they are directional and the shiny side is opposite. One tire is shiny on the outside and the other is shiny on the inside. Is this a big deal?
Blake
Blake
12-11-2013 | 12:12 PM
#6875
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 270
From: Black River Falls, WI.
22SCT mounting holes for the 0222:
Front - the center outside holes/dimples.
Rear - the lower outside holes/dimples where the roll-bar is notched.
I'm not really sure what causes this anomaly during the mold process, but I have run them like this without any side affects. If you have any issues, please contact us directly for help - [email protected]
Front - the center outside holes/dimples.
Rear - the lower outside holes/dimples where the roll-bar is notched.
I'm not really sure what causes this anomaly during the mold process, but I have run them like this without any side affects. If you have any issues, please contact us directly for help - [email protected]
Kris
12-11-2013 | 12:23 PM
#6876
Even if the body happens to have holes marked for my truck I still mark them before I paint. I have found that the holes are not usually spot on. One from the mounts being hammered on for months if their not new so that will throw it off and also the dimples may or not be exactly right for the truck... with any manufacturer. It only takes being off by a hair to make you have to oval one or more of the holes to fit.
12-12-2013 | 08:03 AM
#6879
Tech Elite
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,786
From: Groveland, FL
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Paul-Nice work last night man. That buggy and "Driver" were locked in.
12-12-2013 | 09:05 AM
#6882
Tech Elite
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,786
From: Groveland, FL
C4.2 Tower/Bulkhead tip:
The stock Centro never took into consideration that flipping the rear arms around and having the shocks mounted on the back would need a longer shock because of the anti-squat (one less limiter). So JConcepts actually lowered the tower slightly so that the shock length would remain the same from the B4.2 (RM) to the C4.2 (MM).
I race at SCRC (2014 Nationals); its a big indoor track (orange Georgia clay) that is high-bite/blue grooved and really bumpy. I've attached my current setup for everyone to check out.
The stock Centro never took into consideration that flipping the rear arms around and having the shocks mounted on the back would need a longer shock because of the anti-squat (one less limiter). So JConcepts actually lowered the tower slightly so that the shock length would remain the same from the B4.2 (RM) to the C4.2 (MM).
I race at SCRC (2014 Nationals); its a big indoor track (orange Georgia clay) that is high-bite/blue grooved and really bumpy. I've attached my current setup for everyone to check out.
