XXX-4 Question
10-21-2006, 10:02 AM
#31
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Can you post a link
super easy to install and i can already see how effective they will be. i broke a castor block last time out, it cracked right where the back pin holds it in place. these shoulder screws will hold everything together the way it should be done. it's actually very similar to the way yokomo and tamiya have been doing sedan front ends for years.
has anyone had problems with batteries popping out on hard landings? i prefer to run my packs in the back position, but by the end of pretty much every race, they're in the front position. i've had them pop out twice so far and have since cut down the posts for the battery strap to hold them in very tight. haven't raced it since though.
10-22-2006, 02:46 AM
#32
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by RussB
http://www.xfactoryrc.com/news_09_27_06.htm
has anyone had problems with batteries popping out on hard landings? i prefer to run my packs in the back position, but by the end of pretty much every race, they're in the front position. i've had them pop out twice so far and have since cut down the posts for the battery strap to hold them in very tight. haven't raced it since though.
has anyone had problems with batteries popping out on hard landings? i prefer to run my packs in the back position, but by the end of pretty much every race, they're in the front position. i've had them pop out twice so far and have since cut down the posts for the battery strap to hold them in very tight. haven't raced it since though.
I have had this happen a few times, breaking battery bars in the process.. I took a piece of battery block foam from a XXT i had laying here and put in the 7th "slot thats not used. Stopped the baterry from moving very well
10-22-2006, 11:42 AM
#33
Originally Posted by FowLer
I have had this happen a few times, breaking battery bars in the process.. I took a piece of battery block foam from a XXT i had laying here and put in the 7th "slot thats not used. Stopped the baterry from moving very well
02-20-2007, 09:19 AM
#35
I have cracked the rear bulk head where I have Carbon Fiber shock towers: These are also strong enough to transfer all the force of the crash to the chassis...Alum. pivots are a must in the front, and I always have a set of graphite pivots for the rear.. Spindles and carriers are another weak point..But I have not heard of the aluminum ones..If anyone has seen them please let me know! The only other would be to stock a set of Diff covers. Other than that the buggy is very strong. I've seen them do back flips at the local track!! and come out in one peice. The only other thing, which I have read on another forum, is to make sure that you are using the correct length screws to secure parts.. I had a misshap with using the shorter screws to secure the rear diff cover to the chassis...woops
02-20-2007, 09:48 AM
#36
if you wanna make this car feel more like an offroad car , take the plastic front bumper off and mold one out of a piece of .90 lexan from a proline 8th scale body . start by attaching the lexan to the top mounting holes for the front bumper , heating it and shaping it to mount where the old bumper mounted . 
i've been racing for a long time and have a few sponsors , i'm not a joblo racer guys . i'll give you guys a few more tips to do your xxx-4's later
try not to break,
Monty Houston
p.s. the aluminum caster blocks are made right here in Portland, OR and if you want some i can get you a pair or two and i believe they are 39.95$ a set . let me know i check pm's frequently
i've been racing for a long time and have a few sponsors , i'm not a joblo racer guys . i'll give you guys a few more tips to do your xxx-4's later try not to break,
Monty Houston
p.s. the aluminum caster blocks are made right here in Portland, OR and if you want some i can get you a pair or two and i believe they are 39.95$ a set . let me know i check pm's frequently
02-20-2007, 12:21 PM
#37
Tech Regular
Houston is a NW Legend 
Houston-what exactly does that lexan bumper do for the feel? Less weight up front??Never heard of that trick.Of course I am sure there are many more to learn also.This green horn is all ears
Houston-what exactly does that lexan bumper do for the feel? Less weight up front??Never heard of that trick.Of course I am sure there are many more to learn also.This green horn is all ears
02-20-2007, 01:42 PM
#38
Originally Posted by Alltapdout
I have cracked the rear bulk head where I have Carbon Fiber shock towers: These are also strong enough to transfer all the force of the crash to the chassis...Alum. pivots are a must in the front, and I always have a set of graphite pivots for the rear.. Spindles and carriers are another weak point..But I have not heard of the aluminum ones..If anyone has seen them please let me know! The only other would be to stock a set of Diff covers. Other than that the buggy is very strong. I've seen them do back flips at the local track!! and come out in one peice. The only other thing, which I have read on another forum, is to make sure that you are using the correct length screws to secure parts.. I had a misshap with using the shorter screws to secure the rear diff cover to the chassis...woops
Cheers
02-20-2007, 01:44 PM
#39
Originally Posted by houston
if you wanna make this car feel more like an offroad car , take the plastic front bumper off and mold one out of a piece of .90 lexan from a proline 8th scale body . start by attaching the lexan to the top mounting holes for the front bumper , heating it and shaping it to mount where the old bumper mounted . i've been racing for a long time and have a few sponsors , i'm not a joblo racer guys . i'll give you guys a few more tips to do your xxx-4's later
try not to break,
Monty Houston
p.s. the aluminum caster blocks are made right here in Portland, OR and if you want some i can get you a pair or two and i believe they are 39.95$ a set . let me know i check pm's frequently
i've been racing for a long time and have a few sponsors , i'm not a joblo racer guys . i'll give you guys a few more tips to do your xxx-4's later try not to break,
Monty Houston
p.s. the aluminum caster blocks are made right here in Portland, OR and if you want some i can get you a pair or two and i believe they are 39.95$ a set . let me know i check pm's frequently
As amainhobbies sell them for $39.99 ea.
http://www.amainraceway.com/ctlgoffroad.htm
Cheers
02-20-2007, 01:56 PM
#40
Originally Posted by Drift_Buggy
Is that $39.95US?
As amainhobbies sell them for $39.99 ea.
http://www.amainraceway.com/ctlgoffroad.htm
Cheers
As amainhobbies sell them for $39.99 ea.
http://www.amainraceway.com/ctlgoffroad.htm
Cheers
02-20-2007, 02:50 PM
#41
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Drift_Buggy
Is that $39.95US?
As amainhobbies sell them for $39.99 ea.
Cheers
As amainhobbies sell them for $39.99 ea.
Cheers
A-Main raceway is in Portland,Oregon and is our local indoor off-road track.I believe they have a local machine shop make those parts as well as a few others for them.
AssocRacer-the stock ones crack out by where the pins come into them.I have broken several with out even hitting anything(bump and jump landings) on our outdoor track.The aluminum one you pictured wont break.A very good upgrade to make,they also fit the xx-4.
02-20-2007, 04:58 PM
#42
yeah, but the problem is (from an engineering standpoint, after all, i am going to school to be an engineer 
) that when you change a plastic part that keeps breaking to an aluminum part that won't break, that isn't changing the forces that are being applied that keep breaking the part you just replaced, so the forces get transfered somewhere else, which means the next part in like is usually the next part to break.
) that when you change a plastic part that keeps breaking to an aluminum part that won't break, that isn't changing the forces that are being applied that keep breaking the part you just replaced, so the forces get transfered somewhere else, which means the next part in like is usually the next part to break.
02-20-2007, 05:08 PM
#43
All ive busted is a front diff cover.
But put a new one in there and then screwed my own brace into a) the diff cover and b) the part of the chassis which forms the other half of the diff cover. Its a small piece of plastic that sits between the outdrive and the hinge pin.
Also look a much longer bolt for the upper holes of the diff cover and captured the entire assembly with nuts on either side of the diff cover/shock tower.
Drilling holes into the chassis is not for the feint of heart... but have used the buggy many times since and it appears to be sufficiently "bulletproof" for my driving style and chosen powerplant (6.5t brushless).
Will be doing similar on the rear, i.e. bracing the diff cover to the chassis.
Love the 4g+ and one track in my area has just gone carpet which will suit it to a tee i think!!
But put a new one in there and then screwed my own brace into a) the diff cover and b) the part of the chassis which forms the other half of the diff cover. Its a small piece of plastic that sits between the outdrive and the hinge pin.
Also look a much longer bolt for the upper holes of the diff cover and captured the entire assembly with nuts on either side of the diff cover/shock tower.
Drilling holes into the chassis is not for the feint of heart... but have used the buggy many times since and it appears to be sufficiently "bulletproof" for my driving style and chosen powerplant (6.5t brushless).
Will be doing similar on the rear, i.e. bracing the diff cover to the chassis.
Love the 4g+ and one track in my area has just gone carpet which will suit it to a tee i think!!
02-20-2007, 05:14 PM
#44
yeah, but the problem is (from an engineering standpoint, after all, i am going to school to be an engineer ) that when you change a plastic part that keeps breaking to an aluminum part that won't break, that isn't changing the forces that are being applied that keep breaking the part you just replaced, so the forces get transfered somewhere else, which means the next part in like is usually the next part to break.
02-20-2007, 05:54 PM
#45
My shock towers are made by psycho-tek. They were from Arts-Hobby.com Which I could not find anymore. Its been awhile since I bought them..
However I have found another place to get the towers, however they have large holes cut out in the middle (like stock units) The one's from psycho-tek are completely solid.
However I have found another place to get the towers, however they have large holes cut out in the middle (like stock units) The one's from psycho-tek are completely solid.