Schumacher cougar LD3
#691
#693
I had a chance to test the 5 gear gearbox yesterday on medium grip astro. I didn't managed to back to back the change but it felt very nice to drive.
I started with my normal setup and added 0.5 rear toe to 3' and moved the battery back one hole. Good rotation but could do with a little more steering so moved the battery forward 1 hole - car was really good, good rear grip and felt much quicker rotating in the hairpins. Final change was to raise the front inner camber link 1mm to 4mm as the track had an off camber corner onto the main straight - this helped keep the power on and the front drifting wide, really nice.
The gearbox is nice, needs lots of thread lock as screwing metal into metal, need to check everything over.
I started with my normal setup and added 0.5 rear toe to 3' and moved the battery back one hole. Good rotation but could do with a little more steering so moved the battery forward 1 hole - car was really good, good rear grip and felt much quicker rotating in the hairpins. Final change was to raise the front inner camber link 1mm to 4mm as the track had an off camber corner onto the main straight - this helped keep the power on and the front drifting wide, really nice.
The gearbox is nice, needs lots of thread lock as screwing metal into metal, need to check everything over.
Last edited by Pistol123; 05-05-2026 at 04:44 AM.
#694
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,596
From: East Atl Metro Area
I had a chance to test the 5 gear gearbox yesterday on medium grip astro. I didn't managed to back to back the change but it felt very nice to drive.
I started with my normal setup and added 0.5 rear toe to 3' and moved the battery back one hole. Good rotation but could do with a little more steering so moved the battery forward 1 hole - car was really good, good rear grip and felt much quicker rotating in the hairpins. Final change was to raise the front inner camber link 1mm to 4mm as the track had an off camber corner onto the main straight - this helped keep the power on and the front drifting wide, really nice.
The gearbox is nice, needs lots of thread lock as screwing metal into metal, need to check everything over.
I started with my normal setup and added 0.5 rear toe to 3' and moved the battery back one hole. Good rotation but could do with a little more steering so moved the battery forward 1 hole - car was really good, good rear grip and felt much quicker rotating in the hairpins. Final change was to raise the front inner camber link 1mm to 4mm as the track had an off camber corner onto the main straight - this helped keep the power on and the front drifting wide, really nice.
The gearbox is nice, needs lots of thread lock as screwing metal into metal, need to check everything over.
I am curious if 5 gear is worthwhile in 17.5 with so much extra weight from the aluminum and the rotational weight of 2 extra gears.
#695
I am running Mod so no issue with the weight or extra drag. The alloy gearbox is very light, but I didn't weigh it before I built it up.
#696
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 182
I think the alloy servo mount is more rigid, but I imagine in the event of a very heavy front end crash is it going bend a bit rather than snapping.
The gearbox I think is very rigid as it's one piece and metal. The middle smaller idler gear looks (waiting for it to arrive this week) to be alloy so should help with weak idler gear issues of the B7 issues.
But really too early to tell on either issues for most.
The gearbox I think is very rigid as it's one piece and metal. The middle smaller idler gear looks (waiting for it to arrive this week) to be alloy so should help with weak idler gear issues of the B7 issues.
But really too early to tell on either issues for most.
I had a chance to test the 5 gear gearbox yesterday on medium grip astro. I didn't managed to back to back the change but it felt very nice to drive.
I started with my normal setup and added 0.5 rear toe to 3' and moved the battery back one hole. Good rotation but could do with a little more steering so moved the battery forward 1 hole - car was really good, good rear grip and felt much quicker rotating in the hairpins. Final change was to raise the front inner camber link 1mm to 4mm as the track had an off camber corner onto the main straight - this helped keep the power on and the front drifting wide, really nice.
The gearbox is nice, needs lots of thread lock as screwing metal into metal, need to check everything over.
I started with my normal setup and added 0.5 rear toe to 3' and moved the battery back one hole. Good rotation but could do with a little more steering so moved the battery forward 1 hole - car was really good, good rear grip and felt much quicker rotating in the hairpins. Final change was to raise the front inner camber link 1mm to 4mm as the track had an off camber corner onto the main straight - this helped keep the power on and the front drifting wide, really nice.
The gearbox is nice, needs lots of thread lock as screwing metal into metal, need to check everything over.
Thank you for posting what you found with the servo mount and 5-gear transmission mods. Are the bearing surfaces of the 5-gear transmission case (U9417) cleaner than they appear in pictures (e.g. as shown on the Amain link below)? In other words, are the bearing surfaces machined?
Are the tolerances of the 5-gear transmission about the same or an improvement over the standard plastic transmission?
Schumacher LD/ST Transmission Case (5-Gear Transmission)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...u9417/p1802197
#697
Thank you for posting what you found with the servo mount and 5-gear transmission mods. Are the bearing surfaces of the 5-gear transmission case (U9417) cleaner than they appear in pictures (e.g. as shown on the Amain link below)? In other words, are the bearing surfaces machined?
Are the tolerances of the 5-gear transmission about the same or an improvement over the standard plastic transmission?
Schumacher LD/ST Transmission Case (5-Gear Transmission)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...u9417/p1802197
Are the tolerances of the 5-gear transmission about the same or an improvement over the standard plastic transmission?
Schumacher LD/ST Transmission Case (5-Gear Transmission)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...u9417/p1802197
Edited to add, just checked the layshaft and I have a bit of play in it, but also quite a lot of end float - I might need look at shining it a bit.
Last edited by Pistol123; 05-08-2026 at 03:01 AM.
#698
For anyone looking for the flat servo conversion, Amain has them in stock. I have one on the way.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...u9451/p1820717
https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...u9451/p1820717
#699
Looked at all the normal places for 17.5 carpet setups for office carpet or black carpet and have found really none of them. Found this for many cars recently which is odd. Guess no one wants to give up their secret sauce?
#700
I have noticed this for UK Mod setups as well, I think it might be that they put out quite a few setups when the car is new then as they feel there are good base line setup out there they don't post as many. Also I think later in the life cycle of the chassis they are trying more prototype parts which aren't always available to Joe public.
#703
Who is running a -3 or -4 rear tower and Core/Aerox rear springs and able to get ride height down to 13ish mm? Just building my car with basically every option part and am not able to get ride height below like 19mm. I know what I'm doing. I could certainly cut the rear shock eyelets a bit but not like 6mm and I have been looking at this thing for a while and cant figure out what else I can do?
Edit: I cut 2.5mm off the bottom shock eyelet the most I'm comfortable with cutting and am now able to get around 17mm rode height at the lowest. If I remove the -3 tower I guess I can get to about 14 but then what is the point of selling that tower if you cant get ride height below 17mm without severe modifications to something? I tried a couple different brand of springs Core/Aerox, xray, Willspeed. Nothing will get me below 16-17mm
Edit: I cut 2.5mm off the bottom shock eyelet the most I'm comfortable with cutting and am now able to get around 17mm rode height at the lowest. If I remove the -3 tower I guess I can get to about 14 but then what is the point of selling that tower if you cant get ride height below 17mm without severe modifications to something? I tried a couple different brand of springs Core/Aerox, xray, Willspeed. Nothing will get me below 16-17mm
Last edited by L.Fairtrace; 06-02-2026 at 11:34 AM.
#704
Who is running a -3 or -4 rear tower and Core/Aerox rear springs and able to get ride height down to 13ish mm? Just building my car with basically every option part and am not able to get ride height below like 19mm. I know what I'm doing. I could certainly cut the rear shock eyelets a bit but not like 6mm and I have been looking at this thing for a while and cant figure out what else I can do?
Edit: I cut 2.5mm off the bottom shock eyelet the most I'm comfortable with cutting and am now able to get around 17mm rode height at the lowest. If I remove the -3 tower I guess I can get to about 14 but then what is the point of selling that tower if you cant get ride height below 17mm without severe modifications to something? I tried a couple different brand of springs Core/Aerox, xray, Willspeed. Nothing will get me below 16-17mm
Edit: I cut 2.5mm off the bottom shock eyelet the most I'm comfortable with cutting and am now able to get around 17mm rode height at the lowest. If I remove the -3 tower I guess I can get to about 14 but then what is the point of selling that tower if you cant get ride height below 17mm without severe modifications to something? I tried a couple different brand of springs Core/Aerox, xray, Willspeed. Nothing will get me below 16-17mm
#705
I can send you a pic of the car but the car is not done yet. I don't have the speedo or the receiver in the car. But I have 99 percent of it completed other than the electronics and when I sit the electronics in there with a battery and motor and the rear shock collars all the way up its right around 17mm. I'm using a -4 rear vision shock tower, and the alloy shock tops. I did replace the shock bottom eyelets with the shortest xray ones so I don't have to pop off the balls everytime I rebuild the shocks. But the shock bottoms are currently shorter than the stock ones after I cut them. I'm using the stock shock cup and black aerox rear springs. The new rear pill system. aluminum rear hubs all the good stuff. Just an FYI I have been building rc cars for 35 years so I know what I'm doing. I just don't understand even with the stock rear tower and stock ball cups and the kit springs I don't see a way to get 13mm ride height. If I put the stock rear tower on I could maybe get to 14 but I see setup sheets out there that say 13 with nothing crazy going on. Its just odd to me.
Last edited by L.Fairtrace; 06-02-2026 at 06:28 PM.



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