Where have you got your rear hub height at, I would imagine you will want them raised right up for those ride heights.

I tried the C and the F inserts. which is what I saw on a couple carpet setup sheets for tight tracks. Neither did much. I should not have to use a specific insert to get ride height either. I should be able to tune the hub height to whatever I want and still be able to get to carpet ride height on a carpet car. This thing better handle good because its kind of a pile to build compared to the other 2 cars I built recently.

Well then why are you bothering to ask us if you’re so experienced. First off, you’re trying to troubleshoot ride height on a car that isn’t even at running weight yet. No electronics mounted, no tires mounted, but somehow the setup sheets are already the problem.

You keep mentioning the -4mm tower because it’s on a setup sheet. Did you build the shocks to match the sheet or just install the tower? That tower requires a 3mm internal limiter.

The shortened Xray rod ends would have been useful information up front as well. Because now we have no way to accurately measure your shock overall length vs the stroke to the cup because it’s not the same as the Schumacher one. Also what spring cups are you using?

With a -4mm tower, I can get down to 8-10mm ride height without much effort. It might be worth making sure the car is built and measured the same way the cars on those sheets were.



14mm ride height with plenty of room to go on a black spring with -4mm rear tower. Aerox spring is the exact same weight as the Core Black spring so ride height is unchanged going back and forth before your “35 years” wants to bring that up.

I think there may be some misunderstanding about where I'm coming from. I'm not new to building or setting up RC cars, which is why this issue has been particularly frustrating.

The car was weighted with all of the electronics and equipment installed. The only thing not completed was permanently mounting a few components, and I don't see how that would create a significant difference in ride height.

As for the internal spacers, my understanding is that they primarily affect droop, not static ride height, unless the suspension is already very limited in droop. With no limiters installed, I currently have about 8mm of gap between the spring and the fully raised collar when the suspension is unloaded. Adding internal spacers would reduce droop, but it shouldn't affect ride height unless I exceed that amount and start preloading the spring at full extension.

For reference, none of my other cars are set up that way, including several off-road platforms I've built and raced successfully.

Regarding the Xray shock ends, I modified them to match the stock dimensions exactly, including the distance from the eyelet to the shock cup, specifically to eliminate them as a possible variable.

Looking at the photo you posted, it appears your collars are threaded down farther than mine. Would you mind sharing your fully extended shock length, measured from the upper mounting hole to the center of the lower eyelet?

I'm asking because I've already gone through the obvious checks. Over the last year I've built a B7, XB2 '26, and 22X without any assembly or setup issues, and I rarely post asking for help. At this point I'm simply trying to identify what variable I may be overlooking.

Doesn't the minus four shock tower require the use of front length shocks and springs all around?

I can't imagine that would work either since I don't think the shocks would be long enough nor would they have springs short enough with the weights of normal rear springs. But who the hell knows thats what I'm trying to figure out.

I don't think that is allowed in this forum.

I don't think Schumacher offer a -4mm rear tower so it might be a bit trickier. Next time you are checking it, if you could take a photo with everything as is, we may be able to help? I'm guessing that the spring cups are able to slide partly over the xray eyelets you are using? If it's a brand new build my only suggestion would be to build it with the kit tower and see where that gets you to first.

With electrics + battery and normal carpet tyres like a cactus and splinter the car will go really low. In the UK we tend not o run them below 14mm even on high grip carpet, so I would recommend that as your starting point - once you've figured out the issue.

Its a vision racing rear tower I was ordering some other stuff from them so I got it there instead of the stock one. With some finagling I was able to get the rear to about 13mm. Which should be fine. I usually run 13-14mm on high grip carpet with my other cars so I figured that was a good starting point. The spring cups fit on the eyelets just fine. They are even a little loose on there.

I got everything together now, maiden voyage on Tuesday. Have a good XB2 and 22x to test it against. Trying to decide my platform for the go forward plan for next season. Trying to go to the FL carpet champs and want to make sure I have the best cars for me. I was stricktly onroad and have had good car sponsors for 20 years so its cool to have freedom of choice now for Offroad. Only problem is paying full price for stuff is kinda rough when you want to build multiple fully decked out cars.