Team Associated B74.2 / B74.2D
#256
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I don't think this class will last very long, based on what a lot of peoples reactions were when they announced it. They are running 13.5 and 17.5 classes last I checked, which is odd. Seems like there are already too many classes.
Last edited by MrLean; 09-22-2023 at 09:41 AM.
#257
I'm at Tacoma RC Raceway. Next weekend is the Gold Cup race where they are running Stock and ProStock in both 2wd (21.5/17.5) and 4wd (17.5/13.5). The 21.5 2wd has been catching on at the club races as people are trying to get ready for the Gold Cup.
I can't say this is a bad decision. But, I'm a casual racer that mostly does open practice and races every month or two.
I can't say this is a bad decision. But, I'm a casual racer that mostly does open practice and races every month or two.
#258
Tech Adept
New Will Speed chassis announced:
https://www.redrc.net/2023/09/willsp...is-conversion/
https://www.willspeed.co.uk/products...4&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://www.redrc.net/2023/09/willsp...is-conversion/
https://www.willspeed.co.uk/products...4&_ss=e&_v=1.0
#259
To close out this conversation the consensus was 29/72 for a 17.5 motor. I have to admit, it was fun. The slower motor removed the temptation to send it, and made you really focus on your driving line.
#260
Anyone else running two fans to keep the motor from overheating? The motor is a brand new R1 13.5 with 40d of timing with a 78/23 grearing. Im running a tight indoor track, with high grip clay. ESC did a thermal shutdown due to motor temp hitting 170 before I added the extra fan and dropped a tooth on the spur.
That seems way too high. I'm at 78 / 28 * 2.5 = 6.96 on a 13.5T Reedy S plus and it gets hot enough even in 70 degree weather but it hasn't overheated even in 15+ minute practice rubs.
The other poster is at 7.2 (72/25) and 7.22 (78/27). I think that would be fine for mine if I didn't run it past 10-12 minutes. If I was optimizing for < 10 minutes maybe 7.5 (78/26).
Just googling a bit and 7-7.5 seems a common FDR for 4wd 13.5: buggy.
#261
Hello,
i am building B74.2 carpet and i have a small problem.
Build the shocks per manual, but the rear shock spring cup touching the arm. Its moving like 1mm and blocking arm movement. Its not much, but...
Stroke is 27,5mm.
Eyelet +0mm.
Spring cup offset +0mm.
Internal limiter 0mm.
Position on arm is B.
Pills and geometry per manual.
Thank you.
i am building B74.2 carpet and i have a small problem.
Build the shocks per manual, but the rear shock spring cup touching the arm. Its moving like 1mm and blocking arm movement. Its not much, but...
Stroke is 27,5mm.
Eyelet +0mm.
Spring cup offset +0mm.
Internal limiter 0mm.
Position on arm is B.
Pills and geometry per manual.
Thank you.
#263
Tech Addict
I'm at Tacoma RC Raceway. Next weekend is the Gold Cup race where they are running Stock and ProStock in both 2wd (21.5/17.5) and 4wd (17.5/13.5). The 21.5 2wd has been catching on at the club races as people are trying to get ready for the Gold Cup.
I can't say this is a bad decision. But, I'm a casual racer that mostly does open practice and races every month or two.
I can't say this is a bad decision. But, I'm a casual racer that mostly does open practice and races every month or two.
I was just up in Washington this last week, and i thought about bringing my car up and racing back at TRCR for the weekend. But all i had running was my 21.5 B6.3, and didnt want to become a mobile chicane in 17.5. Now i wish i would have brought it, showed up, and did some racing.
#NextTime
#264
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Hello,
i am building B74.2 carpet and i have a small problem.
Build the shocks per manual, but the rear shock spring cup touching the arm. Its moving like 1mm and blocking arm movement. Its not much, but...
Stroke is 27,5mm.
Eyelet +0mm.
Spring cup offset +0mm.
Internal limiter 0mm.
Position on arm is B.
Pills and geometry per manual.
Thank you.
i am building B74.2 carpet and i have a small problem.
Build the shocks per manual, but the rear shock spring cup touching the arm. Its moving like 1mm and blocking arm movement. Its not much, but...
Stroke is 27,5mm.
Eyelet +0mm.
Spring cup offset +0mm.
Internal limiter 0mm.
Position on arm is B.
Pills and geometry per manual.
Thank you.
#265
Nearly all of the 10x15x4 kit bearings (8 in total) on my B74.2D have failed in the first three track days with the car. No problems with any other size so far, and no issues with any of the replacements either. Both the pair on the wheels and 5 on diffs have failed. One seized entirely and caused some aesthetic damage, the others I've pulled before they get that far.
Track days are for tuning right now so I'm in the diffs pretty often and so I'm checking these often too. When they fail it doesn't even feel gritty either there's usually one spot that feels way off. When I checked all the bearings before the first track day I had noticed the 10x15 all felt and looked different too, they spun too freely and looked dry.
Very weird, don't know what to make of it but reminded me of the kit bearings they shipped dry.
Track days are for tuning right now so I'm in the diffs pretty often and so I'm checking these often too. When they fail it doesn't even feel gritty either there's usually one spot that feels way off. When I checked all the bearings before the first track day I had noticed the 10x15 all felt and looked different too, they spun too freely and looked dry.
Very weird, don't know what to make of it but reminded me of the kit bearings they shipped dry.
#266
Nearly all of the 10x15x4 kit bearings (8 in total) on my B74.2D have failed in the first three track days with the car. No problems with any other size so far, and no issues with any of the replacements either. Both the pair on the wheels and 5 on diffs have failed. One seized entirely and caused some aesthetic damage, the others I've pulled before they get that far.
Track days are for tuning right now so I'm in the diffs pretty often and so I'm checking these often too. When they fail it doesn't even feel gritty either there's usually one spot that feels way off. When I checked all the bearings before the first track day I had noticed the 10x15 all felt and looked different too, they spun too freely and looked dry.
Very weird, don't know what to make of it but reminded me of the kit bearings they shipped dry.
Track days are for tuning right now so I'm in the diffs pretty often and so I'm checking these often too. When they fail it doesn't even feel gritty either there's usually one spot that feels way off. When I checked all the bearings before the first track day I had noticed the 10x15 all felt and looked different too, they spun too freely and looked dry.
Very weird, don't know what to make of it but reminded me of the kit bearings they shipped dry.
#267
I've got a full set of ceramic from Avid as replacements but I was expecting the kit bearings to last a lot longer. I don't recall seeing bearing issues in the B6.4 thread and it's only the 10x15 so far, maybe the others are good.
But it making me wonder, when I get my B6.4 do I need to just throw away the kit bearings because these aren't very good imo.
But it making me wonder, when I get my B6.4 do I need to just throw away the kit bearings because these aren't very good imo.
#268
Tech Adept
I had issues with my B74.2 bearings and I filled out an RMA and Team Associated sent me a replacement kit. I also recently built a b6.4 and I have had no issues with the bearings.
#269
Tech Adept
#270
Personally I think its specific batches of bearings, I bought a 74.2 kit a few months after it launched and have had zero issues with kit bearings. I've ran stock and mod and broken other parts but never a bearing. I've been using 1up and similar light bearing oil here and there, but nothing consistently.
I also built it with adding light bearing oil, that possibly helped a lot.
I was building my new kits with pilot bearings since they always out lasted even b6.1 and .2 kit bearings and were super free spinning ceramic bearings, but pilots gone now. I think 1ups bearings are similar, but I haven't tried any personally.
I also built it with adding light bearing oil, that possibly helped a lot.
I was building my new kits with pilot bearings since they always out lasted even b6.1 and .2 kit bearings and were super free spinning ceramic bearings, but pilots gone now. I think 1ups bearings are similar, but I haven't tried any personally.