PennDriver

It's not often when your wife says "Just get what you want, but no more nickle & dime stuff at the hobby shop". I always remembered Kyoshos being very stout & well engineered. I never broke anything but a dogbone back in the day. My first car was an Ultima, last was a Stinger. They all had to go when I bought my first automobile & I never really dabbled in them since. A few years back Monster Energy had a promotion where you sent in tabs, they'd send you stuff. They had Traxxas Slash 4×4s so I grabbed one for my son & one for myself. These were fun for a couple of hours, then it was a nonstop list of modifications & upgrades. At some point you have to step back and realize what you could've had with the money you wasted. If I hadn't gotten them for nothing, I'd be irate. I came at this from the opposite side of where a lot of you guys started. I had a bunch of 2S LiPos because the Slashes were breaking with those, why would I want to speed up the process? I read this thread multiple times, weighed the pros & cons, did a search on Ebay, no luck. New models on backorder almost everywhere. I figured I'd check marketplace & this thing popped up! Couldn't believe the car I was looking for turned up in Central Pennsylvania!
You'll need to use your imagination to get a visual of what the car looks like, I tried to post the picture numerous times and it keeps getting rejected.

First post.

WTRC

Welcome. If it's the most recent MP10e that was posted in the B/S/T, I'm jealous and enjoy. Keep us posted on your driving experiences.

PennDriver

I only saw that one listed for the first time yesterday when I finally created an account and did some looking around. I've been lurking here for awhile, just finally signed up yesterday.

I looked everywhere and just before ordering a new one I checked Facebook marketplace and one just happened to pop up.

Ackchyually

iTrader: (7)

Well, both of my Redline LiHV shorty 2S packs have slightly puffed. They could be OK, but I don't think I'm going to buy more shorties.

I have mixed feelings, TBH, if the MP10e is any better with shorties (forward or rearward) vs. regular long packs. Maybe I'm not fast enough to realize any effects, especially when the track is dry and slick with dust. Making informed assessments is next to impossible, at least in my experience. Sometimes, I think rear traction is increased with shorties rearward, while other times I think it causes the rear to rotate too much, perhaps even being uncontrollable in over-steer situations. However, I do appreciate the 110g less weight on the Kyosho boat anchor! Less weight, overall, keeps the front shocks from being overburdened too. On the contrary, sometimes I think long packs do well (or better), or maybe shorties forward, in bumps, potholes, ruts, or whoops. Here, I am more confident the extra weight actually does help.

Therefore, looking for feedback from the group. What is the consensus here about the use of shorties in the MP10e and the handling effects/changes? Thanks!

Mickey_B

iTrader: (7)

Adam Drake has a recent video explaining why they stayed with a 4s shorty and regular 4s stick pack on the new MBX8r Eco. He does a great job of addressing the shortfalls with a saddle set up. I have a XB8E and tried the saddle for awhile with numerous setup changes to get it to drive good. Eventually I gave up and went back to the 4s stick. With the 2s saddle the car jumped really well and was more responsive to input, but felt unpredictable and in corners the rear end would swing out to much. I also found my lap times and consistency where not as good with the saddle.

Matty A

In order to make an informed judgement you really need to start with what you reference as baseline. What you describe above, none is a problem if you understand the cause, effect and mitigation. With saddle packs i get (give or take 10-15 grams) 900grams per corner front/rear left/right. In racing that would be considered by most bang on perfect - 50:50 and for any 1/8 buggy that would be considered the ideal basis on which to tune a buggy. Where you start and how you get there - saddle/shorty/4s/2s within reason they can all get to the same outcome. From my baseline of 50:50 if I move weight forward I will increase understeer and lessen oversteer (70's American muscle car). If I move weight toward the rear I increase oversteer and lessen understeer (early Porsche 911). Basic physics - the heavier end will resist movement more than a lighter end - think steering a hammer holding either end.

Therefore, if you were to position your shorty on the tray to achieve 50:50 and also achieve a weight saving over a saddle pack then in theory I would argue that should be a better handling buggy - or a baseline on which to then tune a better handling buggy that suits you... it's important to note that because there are those that would prefer a buggy that transitions to oversteer to a buggy that understeers and vice versa there's no wrong or right answer here. If you prefer a buggy that will transition from grip to understeer rather than oversteer then you need to look at all the factors that can effect that: such as lighter rear sway bar or heavier front sway bar, lighter rear spring, increase rear ride height etc etc. There's plenty of tuning guides that will help there. Changing batteries I don't think is the solution, it will be just the start of a new headache.

I use 4 cheap digital kitchen scales that work very well compared to the "RC scales" out there for a fraction of the price.

ryan_orley

Thanks for all the post an information , been reading through it trying to understand if I want if I want to get a MP10 TKI2 and conversation kit to EP or just buy the MP10e and upgrade parts. MP10 tki2 conversation will be about $1100 AUS for me vs the mp10e with tower and shock upgrades about $1600 (I will also need new 2s battery's) Im leaning towards the single 4s battery conversation on the tki2 , how ever a friend at local track likes his saddle bags over his single 4s MP10. Am i right and just thinking that its going to be personal prefference and setup same as the Mattys A post above.

any advice or opinion would be great thanks
Ryan

Joe H

you're right my friend. It's going to come down to preference. As a bonus, you can always change the TKI2 to nitro then back to electric if you wanted. Or if you're heavily invested in full size stick packs, TKI2 with a conversion would be the way to go. My only concern is the body clearing the battery using the conversion.

voodoopapa

iTrader: (4)

Hello sorry if this has been asked before. I want to get back into racing after 10 year’s away. I used to race nitro and have limited knowledge of electric. Can anyone recommend a motor/ESC combo with appropriate battery packs to use in the MP10e

thank you

Matty A

agree the MP10 body is very tight not only for battery but also ESC. I looked and couldn’t see conversion kits for the MP10 so I assume you’d be using what’s left of any mp9 kits out there. Personally I’d lean toward MP10e and upgrade to tki2 but I’m not sure what improvement you get with 3mm (47mm vs 50mm front shocks) bang for bucks wise.
Also worth noting the MP10e can still use 4s, just remove the 2s battery retainer. Not sure what it’s like balance wise but it’s an option.

Matty A

Safe bets are Tekin and Hobbywing for ESC/motor combo 1900-2200 kv range (avoid truggy motors) . For batteries I’d take whatever reasonably priced packs (continuous 50c I reckon is more than adequate for 4s) they have at your LHS, minimum 5000mah @7.4v. I use 6500. As per above shortys will give you a few more tuning options.

jbtamu1011

I've pretty much have searched this forum for shock spring setups without any luck. I've had trouble getting my ride height to the stock setup specs of 26 front using the stock red springs from the kit on my MP10E. I was able to get better results on the front using the 81mm red springs that would normally go on the rear. All other factors are stock, drop is full. stock shock bodies.

Anyone else had issues using the stock springs and getting stock ride height? If not, what did you do differently? Thanks!

Matty A

If you're running out of spring preload then try going middle hole on the suspension mount. I'm assuming there's no binds etc in your suspension too....

jbtamu1011

I'll try that. no binding or anything like that.

OffRoadJunkie

iTrader: (9)

By the way...
Congrats to Ryan Lutz for the Pro E-Buggy win at the Silver State Indoor Off-Road Championships.