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Old 07-26-2018, 08:58 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB7 Thread
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Kyosho RB6.6 to RB7 conversion kit RB66TORB7 from Conversion Kit

Parts included (and updated list for RB6.6)

UM703B Front Bulkhead

UM753-1B Shock plastic parts set x 2

UM760 Chassis

UM761 Front suspension arms

UM762 Rear suspension arm

UM763 Front hub carrier

UM764 Wing Stay

UM765 Centre bulkhead (waterfall brace)

UM766 Universal joint ring

UM767 Wing

UMB06 Body

UMD05 Decal sheet

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Old 08-21-2021, 11:45 AM
  #766  
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Anyone running the rear stabilizer (UMW708) on the RB7? I'm finding that the ball ends bind in the rear shock springs... any ideas? Almost seems like the included bars are too long by default.

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Old 08-21-2021, 12:34 PM
  #767  
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Originally Posted by jkranz
Anyone running the rear stabilizer (UMW708) on the RB7? I'm finding that the ball ends bind in the rear shock springs... any ideas? Almost seems like the included bars are too long by default.
I also found that. The solution is to either cut away the top of the ball end so that the bar can poke out, or replace it with an open ended ball connector. I happened to have connectors from tamiya which uses the same diameter stud.
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Old 08-21-2021, 12:50 PM
  #768  
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Thanks, glad I didn't screw something up! I did realize after that in typical cryptic Kyosho fashion, it shows shaving down the ball end by a few mm in the documentation... I'll try that and hopefully it'll help.
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Old 08-28-2021, 05:40 PM
  #769  
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Seeking advice from any RB7 veterans on how to reduce traction rolling on our cars, I'm running 17.5 indoor carpet.
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.

Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.

I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.

Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
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Old 08-30-2021, 09:44 AM
  #770  
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Originally Posted by Xtracrispy
Seeking advice from any RB7 veterans on how to reduce traction rolling on our cars, I'm running 17.5 indoor carpet.
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.

Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.

I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.

Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?

Have you tried laying the top of your rear shocks down?
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Old 08-30-2021, 10:38 AM
  #771  
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Originally Posted by Xtracrispy
Seeking advice from any RB7 veterans on how to reduce traction rolling on our cars, I'm running 17.5 indoor carpet.
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.

Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.

I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.

Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
Which tires is it rolling over, front or back? Is this under corner entry or mid-corner?
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Old 08-30-2021, 12:21 PM
  #772  
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It's rolling over the fronts, corner entry.
Our track mandates shock tower protectors to save the carpet, so I'm stuck using the outermost shock tower holes because that's the only way the Arrma shock cap protectors fit. That's part of the reason why I softened the rear springs down to AE V2 grays, to mimic the decreased shock force.
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Old 08-30-2021, 12:33 PM
  #773  
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What tires are you running?
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Old 08-30-2021, 01:36 PM
  #774  
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Proline wedge front, prisms in rear. This is on carpet
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Old 08-30-2021, 01:56 PM
  #775  
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I would try the brass pivot weight. You can start trimming tires, but I prefer to use that as a last resort.

For the record, I don't own an RB7, I just run a lot of different cars on carpet.
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Old 08-30-2021, 04:26 PM
  #776  
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by pivot weight, do you mean the front suspension pin holder along the midline?
The car does have a +10g aluminum bit for that, but I forgot to mention it.
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Old 08-30-2021, 04:42 PM
  #777  
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Originally Posted by Xtracrispy
by pivot weight, do you mean the front suspension pin holder along the midline?
The car does have a +10g aluminum bit for that, but I forgot to mention it.
Something like this. This is for the RB6, not sure if it fits the RB7.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...qzqaqahbzxactz
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Old 08-31-2021, 09:40 AM
  #778  
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
Something like this. This is for the RB6, not sure if it fits the RB7.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...qzqaqahbzxactz

It will fit.
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Old 08-31-2021, 09:43 AM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by Xtracrispy
It's rolling over the fronts, corner entry.
Our track mandates shock tower protectors to save the carpet, so I'm stuck using the outermost shock tower holes because that's the only way the Arrma shock cap protectors fit. That's part of the reason why I softened the rear springs down to AE V2 grays, to mimic the decreased shock force.

I don't race carpet, but I'm sure someone out there has a shock tower cover that will work. Or, get some lexan and a heat gun and make a custom piece.
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Old 08-31-2021, 10:32 AM
  #780  
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Originally Posted by Wipnkseth
hey. I have a Redcat Blackout SC truck. Recently bought it. It was driving and sounding fine. All of a sudden, it started making this weird grinding sound. I've YouTubed the problem and, oddly enough, a lot of people are having the same problem. However, their's are already making that grinding sound right ouf the box. Mine didn't started making the grinding sound UNTIL I drove my truck off a huge ramp. I've already checked the gear mesh, spur gear, and the teeth for all the gears. Everything looks decently fine. Again, it's quite new. Any ideas?

I'm not too familiar with those trucks, but they all work the same. While coming off a jump, the motor could move in it's mount. This will cause the gap between the pinion and spur gear to change. See if you can adjust it. To help narrow where the grinding is coming from, while holding the car in the air and accelerating, try to slow down one tire at a time, then the two rear tires, then the two front tires, until you hear the grinding. You also might have a rock stuck in a gear.
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