Kyosho Ultima RB7 Thread
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#766
Tech Apprentice
Anyone running the rear stabilizer (UMW708) on the RB7? I'm finding that the ball ends bind in the rear shock springs... any ideas? Almost seems like the included bars are too long by default.
#767
Tech Adept
I also found that. The solution is to either cut away the top of the ball end so that the bar can poke out, or replace it with an open ended ball connector. I happened to have connectors from tamiya which uses the same diameter stud.
#768
Tech Apprentice
Thanks, glad I didn't screw something up! I did realize after that in typical cryptic Kyosho fashion, it shows shaving down the ball end by a few mm in the documentation... I'll try that and hopefully it'll help.
#769
Tech Adept
Seeking advice from any RB7 veterans on how to reduce traction rolling on our cars, I'm running 17.5 indoor carpet.
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.
Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.
I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.
Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.
Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.
I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.
Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
#770
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Seeking advice from any RB7 veterans on how to reduce traction rolling on our cars, I'm running 17.5 indoor carpet.
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.
Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.
I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.
Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.
Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.
I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.
Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
Have you tried laying the top of your rear shocks down?
#771
Seeking advice from any RB7 veterans on how to reduce traction rolling on our cars, I'm running 17.5 indoor carpet.
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.
Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.
I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.
Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
Over the last few weeks I've been making a lot of progress with speed, dropping 3 seconds per lap over my previous times.
Unfortunately now that I'm diving into corners faster, I'm rolling once again.
Setup is 35wt & AE red V2 springs in the front, and 30wt AE gray V2 springs in the rear.
I've tried adding in more negative camber and raising the inner camber link all the way to 3mm in the rear, but it wasn't appreciably different.
Car has stiff roll bars up front, soft bars in the rear.
Yet to try raising the transmission casing, is there anything else to try?
#772
Tech Adept
It's rolling over the fronts, corner entry.
Our track mandates shock tower protectors to save the carpet, so I'm stuck using the outermost shock tower holes because that's the only way the Arrma shock cap protectors fit. That's part of the reason why I softened the rear springs down to AE V2 grays, to mimic the decreased shock force.
Our track mandates shock tower protectors to save the carpet, so I'm stuck using the outermost shock tower holes because that's the only way the Arrma shock cap protectors fit. That's part of the reason why I softened the rear springs down to AE V2 grays, to mimic the decreased shock force.
#773
Tech Adept
What tires are you running?
#774
Tech Adept
Proline wedge front, prisms in rear. This is on carpet
#775
I would try the brass pivot weight. You can start trimming tires, but I prefer to use that as a last resort.
For the record, I don't own an RB7, I just run a lot of different cars on carpet.
For the record, I don't own an RB7, I just run a lot of different cars on carpet.
#776
Tech Adept
by pivot weight, do you mean the front suspension pin holder along the midline?
The car does have a +10g aluminum bit for that, but I forgot to mention it.
The car does have a +10g aluminum bit for that, but I forgot to mention it.
#777
https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...qzqaqahbzxactz
#778
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Something like this. This is for the RB6, not sure if it fits the RB7.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...qzqaqahbzxactz
https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...qzqaqahbzxactz
It will fit.
#779
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
It's rolling over the fronts, corner entry.
Our track mandates shock tower protectors to save the carpet, so I'm stuck using the outermost shock tower holes because that's the only way the Arrma shock cap protectors fit. That's part of the reason why I softened the rear springs down to AE V2 grays, to mimic the decreased shock force.
Our track mandates shock tower protectors to save the carpet, so I'm stuck using the outermost shock tower holes because that's the only way the Arrma shock cap protectors fit. That's part of the reason why I softened the rear springs down to AE V2 grays, to mimic the decreased shock force.
I don't race carpet, but I'm sure someone out there has a shock tower cover that will work. Or, get some lexan and a heat gun and make a custom piece.
#780
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
hey. I have a Redcat Blackout SC truck. Recently bought it. It was driving and sounding fine. All of a sudden, it started making this weird grinding sound. I've YouTubed the problem and, oddly enough, a lot of people are having the same problem. However, their's are already making that grinding sound right ouf the box. Mine didn't started making the grinding sound UNTIL I drove my truck off a huge ramp. I've already checked the gear mesh, spur gear, and the teeth for all the gears. Everything looks decently fine. Again, it's quite new. Any ideas?
I'm not too familiar with those trucks, but they all work the same. While coming off a jump, the motor could move in it's mount. This will cause the gap between the pinion and spur gear to change. See if you can adjust it. To help narrow where the grinding is coming from, while holding the car in the air and accelerating, try to slow down one tire at a time, then the two rear tires, then the two front tires, until you hear the grinding. You also might have a rock stuck in a gear.