Kyosho Ultima RB7 Thread
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#751
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I just bought the rb7 kit and I'm impressed with the build and quality. However I'm very disappointed before the 1st drive. The "optional" sway bars makes the kit seem incomplete and poor battery foam spacers and brackets are a real dissapointment.
Enough moaning, my main concern bedore I spend more money on this is; Are the sway bars necessary for high traction carpet racing and if it is, are there anyway of fitting some other brand than the unavailable kyosho parts? At the moment I feel that I should have bought another car...
Enough moaning, my main concern bedore I spend more money on this is; Are the sway bars necessary for high traction carpet racing and if it is, are there anyway of fitting some other brand than the unavailable kyosho parts? At the moment I feel that I should have bought another car...
Needing them would depend on your driving style and how fast you are going. I do see a majority of the guys using them.
For the parts, are you unable to find the parts? Amain Hobbies has them and so does eBay. You can also find them on Kyosho's web site. Part numbers are UMW708 and UMW746-01. It's hard to find the compete front kit with the bars, but you can easily find the bats seperate.
Here's a setup sheet that you can start tuning your car with. You can also find a few different setups on the Kyosho site.
ULTIMA RB7_フォント変換_CS5_out (kyoshoamerica.com)
#752
Tech Adept
Does anybody here run their RB7 with a servo saver?
I upgraded my servo to a high-torque model, and within 1 race day I instantly broke an A-arm, and 2 rod ends with hits that were much softer than what the car took before.
My theory is that it's now so stiff, all the stress is being directed to the suspension instead of being softened somewhat by the servo giving.
At any rate - would love recommendations for servo saver model #s that fit under our tight, tight bulkhead.
I upgraded my servo to a high-torque model, and within 1 race day I instantly broke an A-arm, and 2 rod ends with hits that were much softer than what the car took before.
My theory is that it's now so stiff, all the stress is being directed to the suspension instead of being softened somewhat by the servo giving.
At any rate - would love recommendations for servo saver model #s that fit under our tight, tight bulkhead.
#753
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Does anybody here run their RB7 with a servo saver?
I upgraded my servo to a high-torque model, and within 1 race day I instantly broke an A-arm, and 2 rod ends with hits that were much softer than what the car took before.
My theory is that it's now so stiff, all the stress is being directed to the suspension instead of being softened somewhat by the servo giving.
At any rate - would love recommendations for servo saver model #s that fit under our tight, tight bulkhead.
I upgraded my servo to a high-torque model, and within 1 race day I instantly broke an A-arm, and 2 rod ends with hits that were much softer than what the car took before.
My theory is that it's now so stiff, all the stress is being directed to the suspension instead of being softened somewhat by the servo giving.
At any rate - would love recommendations for servo saver model #s that fit under our tight, tight bulkhead.
You can use the servo saver from the RT6. Don't forget to adjust your servo spacers on the servo mounts.
#754
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Does anybody here run their RB7 with a servo saver?
I upgraded my servo to a high-torque model, and within 1 race day I instantly broke an A-arm, and 2 rod ends with hits that were much softer than what the car took before.
My theory is that it's now so stiff, all the stress is being directed to the suspension instead of being softened somewhat by the servo giving.
At any rate - would love recommendations for servo saver model #s that fit under our tight, tight bulkhead.
I upgraded my servo to a high-torque model, and within 1 race day I instantly broke an A-arm, and 2 rod ends with hits that were much softer than what the car took before.
My theory is that it's now so stiff, all the stress is being directed to the suspension instead of being softened somewhat by the servo giving.
At any rate - would love recommendations for servo saver model #s that fit under our tight, tight bulkhead.
When replacing them, get the carbon ones.
#755
Tech Adept
#756
The kyosho carbon parts are pretty darn good. From my experience the only reason not to use them is on loose, low bite surfaces where the extra flex is needed
#757
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
My son, daughter, and myself both drive the RB7. Only my son and daughter have broken the the a rear stock arm. Those arms lasted them about 8 months of hard rookie racing and back yard bashing. When bashing, my kids put SCT tires on them. I replaced all of theirs with the carbon arms, front and back, and haven't had an issue since. I haven't broken any of my arms and I run the stock ones.
#758
Tech Adept
Has anyone here purchased the front stabilizer kit for use on carpet?
I'm personally traction rolling a bunch due to the high grip (and my driving), so looking to see if there's anything I can do.
Surprisingly, I couldn't even find a picture on google with this piece mounted. Are the front and rear sway bar lengths the same?
I'm personally traction rolling a bunch due to the high grip (and my driving), so looking to see if there's anything I can do.
Surprisingly, I couldn't even find a picture on google with this piece mounted. Are the front and rear sway bar lengths the same?
#759
Has anyone here purchased the front stabilizer kit for use on carpet?
I'm personally traction rolling a bunch due to the high grip (and my driving), so looking to see if there's anything I can do.
Surprisingly, I couldn't even find a picture on google with this piece mounted. Are the front and rear sway bar lengths the same?
I'm personally traction rolling a bunch due to the high grip (and my driving), so looking to see if there's anything I can do.
Surprisingly, I couldn't even find a picture on google with this piece mounted. Are the front and rear sway bar lengths the same?
#761
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Has anyone here purchased the front stabilizer kit for use on carpet?
I'm personally traction rolling a bunch due to the high grip (and my driving), so looking to see if there's anything I can do.
Surprisingly, I couldn't even find a picture on google with this piece mounted. Are the front and rear sway bar lengths the same?
I'm personally traction rolling a bunch due to the high grip (and my driving), so looking to see if there's anything I can do.
Surprisingly, I couldn't even find a picture on google with this piece mounted. Are the front and rear sway bar lengths the same?
They are definitely an upgrade for carpet in reducing precisely traction rolling. As you know the RB7 is super responsive and has steering for days, so quieting it down helps a lot. You may be able to make the rear sway bar work in the front and vice versa with perhaps a few tweaks to the angles.
Also consider changing the Ackerman by placing a shorter ball-stud on the steering plate and making sure the steering plate has the arrow pointing backwards.
#762
Tech Adept
So is that to confirm that the front and rear bars have a different geometry?
I already own the rear bar set, but the fronts are all out of stock. I was only able to snag the mount, and was hoping to reuse the rear bars.
I already own the rear bar set, but the fronts are all out of stock. I was only able to snag the mount, and was hoping to reuse the rear bars.
#764
Tech Adept
Gave the front sway bar install a shot last night, leaving info here for anyone who wants to try the same.
Summary: Wow! By far the largest positive improvement I’ve made to my car yet. Totally transformed the way it handles on carpet, I’m able dive into corners and power out without traction rolling now.
details: the full kyosho front sway kit is nowhere to be found nowadays, but the mount is around. The rear sway bars are too long, but the team associated ones for the b6 front fit great. Beyond that you’ll need some ball joints, and sway bar ball connectors. I bought some team associated ball studs, but they’re a smaller ball diameter than the regular 4.8mm on our cars so watch out as you'll need the AE rod ends.
Summary: Wow! By far the largest positive improvement I’ve made to my car yet. Totally transformed the way it handles on carpet, I’m able dive into corners and power out without traction rolling now.
details: the full kyosho front sway kit is nowhere to be found nowadays, but the mount is around. The rear sway bars are too long, but the team associated ones for the b6 front fit great. Beyond that you’ll need some ball joints, and sway bar ball connectors. I bought some team associated ball studs, but they’re a smaller ball diameter than the regular 4.8mm on our cars so watch out as you'll need the AE rod ends.
Last edited by Xtracrispy; 08-17-2021 at 11:01 AM.
#765
Tech Adept
Here are some pictures, since I literally couldn't find any pictures or documentation of this part on the internet.
The holder snakes in right under the steering crank arms, and bolts to the bulkhead.
Clearly an afterthought for the kyosho engineers, because you now need to fully disassemble the bulkhead cover brace to swap a sway bar... unless you cut out a larger opening with a dremel.
Other than that, the size and spacing of the AE front sway bars tuck in nicely within the suspension arms to avoid damage or snagging on any carpet during landings. Not much is exposed from the front, and you can barely see it! Very stealth.
The holder snakes in right under the steering crank arms, and bolts to the bulkhead.
Clearly an afterthought for the kyosho engineers, because you now need to fully disassemble the bulkhead cover brace to swap a sway bar... unless you cut out a larger opening with a dremel.
Other than that, the size and spacing of the AE front sway bars tuck in nicely within the suspension arms to avoid damage or snagging on any carpet during landings. Not much is exposed from the front, and you can barely see it! Very stealth.