Kyosho Ultima RB7 Thread
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#616
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Try another 0.5 degree of rear toe, even another 1°. I was struggling for rear sideways grip as well for a time.
I'm running 4 ° on my set-up for wet clay.
I tried a brass weight under the transmission, that helped but it was still rear happy in tight turns, it would also have a swinging pendulum effect when it started to come around. It made it hard to catch and correct. The car also started to slap off jumps a lot more. So I removed that and played with rear toe. 3.5 was good, 4 was great.
I also dropped the rear oil by 2.5 wt. As I didn't have the weight there anymore.
Car is a lot more planted in the rear on all corners. But you can still get it oversteering if need be. It feels well balanced now.
I just run my rear camber at -1°. Same as the front. Could give -2° a go, that should give mid to later corner grip a bump as well.
I'm running 4 ° on my set-up for wet clay.
I tried a brass weight under the transmission, that helped but it was still rear happy in tight turns, it would also have a swinging pendulum effect when it started to come around. It made it hard to catch and correct. The car also started to slap off jumps a lot more. So I removed that and played with rear toe. 3.5 was good, 4 was great.
I also dropped the rear oil by 2.5 wt. As I didn't have the weight there anymore.
Car is a lot more planted in the rear on all corners. But you can still get it oversteering if need be. It feels well balanced now.
I just run my rear camber at -1°. Same as the front. Could give -2° a go, that should give mid to later corner grip a bump as well.
#617
Tech Apprentice
Honestly I havent even taken the buggy out of my truck yet. First kid is due any day now and I've been a preoccupied with last minute things to get ready. I had planned to keep a close eye on these based on your issues though. I'll let you know what I find.
I'll definitely try those changes, what you are describing with the swinging pendulum just about mirrors what I get out of mine. I'm used to a rear sliding with my rc8b3 but that is at least controllable and predictable, this just doesnt want to correct until you let it coast to correction. I'm actually running 2 deg camber front and back, i'll keep them there and try the toe adjustment first and work the camber after if I'm not satisfied. Appreciate the suggestions!
I'll definitely try those changes, what you are describing with the swinging pendulum just about mirrors what I get out of mine. I'm used to a rear sliding with my rc8b3 but that is at least controllable and predictable, this just doesnt want to correct until you let it coast to correction. I'm actually running 2 deg camber front and back, i'll keep them there and try the toe adjustment first and work the camber after if I'm not satisfied. Appreciate the suggestions!
Let us know how it goes with the extra toe in on the rear.
I'm going to play with the rear roll centre to see if I can fine tune it.
#618
Is good buggy
#620
Tech Apprentice
I've been running mine with a 7.5 since June and they still look good.
It's odd that those plastic pieces wear so quick. Maybe it's a flaw in the material they used.
#621
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
It could be. The other ones I had in there lasted for a few months for each set. However, I was running at 0 timing. Now it's at 45. I was thinking that might have something to do with it. Either way, I don't think the metal units are going to show a performance difference, so I just decided to go that route. I did purchase some new sliders just in case I decided to go back to them.
#624
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Just in case there is a difference, I will add one disclosure. I pulled the diff out of an RB7 and put it in the RB7ss. I am not sure if the cups are the same size as the RB7ss after market units. I do know that they have different part numbers and they no longer make the cups that come in the box for the RB7. I just found out this information while going over the parts list for the RB7.
#625
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
car twitchy on astro turf
Hi guys, I've got my car just about dialed in our local astro turf track but I can't seem to get rid of the car feeling twitchy, it's very sensitive to small inputs and has a small tendency to oversteer under hard braking. Generally the track likes a clay setup and the standard astro setup doesn't work. Below is a lap of the track with my zx7
#626
Tech Elite
Without knowing your set-up it is hard to guess what your car needs. Thicker shock oil or smaller pistons in the front or moving the battery to the rear might help to tame your front end and limit weight transfer to the front when braking.
#627
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Not at all. I was afraid the drives would slip out and I would have to put shims on the insides of the hub, but I didn't have to. I'll be out camping/riding this week, but when I get back, I'll post a picture.
Just in case there is a difference, I will add one disclosure. I pulled the diff out of an RB7 and put it in the RB7ss. I am not sure if the cups are the same size as the RB7ss after market units. I do know that they have different part numbers and they no longer make the cups that come in the box for the RB7. I just found out this information while going over the parts list for the RB7.
Just in case there is a difference, I will add one disclosure. I pulled the diff out of an RB7 and put it in the RB7ss. I am not sure if the cups are the same size as the RB7ss after market units. I do know that they have different part numbers and they no longer make the cups that come in the box for the RB7. I just found out this information while going over the parts list for the RB7.
Thx
#628
Tech Regular
iTrader: (38)
Hi guys, I've got my car just about dialed in our local astro turf track but I can't seem to get rid of the car feeling twitchy, it's very sensitive to small inputs and has a small tendency to oversteer under hard braking. Generally the track likes a clay setup and the standard astro setup doesn't work. Below is a lap of the track with my zx7
#629
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
I've got my setup sheet attached. I ordered the rear ldw weight last night for the car so it sounds like I'm going in the right direction. the only weight I have added to the car is a battery weight to bring it up to 1500 grams. I also missed the spot for the rear pills, I've got rr d-in and rf a. Going through this I think I can widen the front track as I've got it set to narrow right now
#630
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
How does the car feel without the camera on the back wing? The camera weight high and at the back of the car could be acting like a pendulum, making the rear unstable and want to swing out. Also, if you have front toe-out, it can make the car unstable in sweepers at high speeds. Could also try shortening the rear shocks by turning in the shock eyelets (or going to a shorter one). This will lessen weight transfer forward and should help on the oversteer issue when braking.
The camera was just for kicks and giggles after the race had finished, I run it with a wing for the race. its a GoPro hero 5 session back there and adds a decent amount of weight and makes it feel top heavy, I've got a stiff 3d printed mount I made that replaces the wing altogether so its not bouncing around on the body or on the wing. I'll give the shorter eyelets a try in the rear again, I had played around with the shorter ones and thought it made it worse but that was a couple of weeks ago with a different tire.
Edit: the car feels amazing in sweepers currently, but I'm running 1* front toe out.
Last edited by Brocklee; 03-15-2021 at 11:24 AM. Reason: additional info