Tekno RC ET410 Thread
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#946
For those wanting to use the SCT wheels and still have a wider stance like ST wheels provide then check out Exotek +3mm hexes. They also have a +2mm version.
#948
Do people flip the arms on the ET410 like we do on the EB410. I just did that to my EB and I liked it. Better landing.
I just started my ET build, happy fathers day to me!
I just started my ET build, happy fathers day to me!
#949
they flip the arms if your doing the forward shock mount mod. Only drawback is the droop screw won’t touch the chassis
#950
I found on the et410, it had plenty of steering through the corners. That is where I believe moving the rear shocks in front of the rear shock tower helps. My biggest issue, was jumping. With the rear shocks behind the rear shock tower, it helped it jump flatter or more predicable. I also tried a MIP chassis kit, and actually did not like it on the et410. But I did like converting one into a shortcourse, with a longer chassis. Jumps super smooth.
#951
I found on the et410, it had plenty of steering through the corners. That is where I believe moving the rear shocks in front of the rear shock tower helps. My biggest issue, was jumping. With the rear shocks behind the rear shock tower, it helped it jump flatter or more predicable. I also tried a MIP chassis kit, and actually did not like it on the et410. But I did like converting one into a shortcourse, with a longer chassis. Jumps super smooth.
#952
#953
I found on the et410, it had plenty of steering through the corners. That is where I believe moving the rear shocks in front of the rear shock tower helps. My biggest issue, was jumping. With the rear shocks behind the rear shock tower, it helped it jump flatter or more predicable. I also tried a MIP chassis kit, and actually did not like it on the et410. But I did like converting one into a shortcourse, with a longer chassis. Jumps super smooth.
#954
ya I was advised to bump up the rear shocks to 35 weight and run it box stock. I did make a mistake in the build and put 10k in front instead of 30k. I caught it before it hit dirt and thought, f it,I’ll run it with 10k. I didn’t like the entry/exit steering on the couple I test drove before I bought it....Honestly I wasn’t impressed with either test drive. But I gave it a shot and when I ran it first pack, it was like the holy grail! Best box stock car I’ve ever driven!! And I love the 10 k in front. Indoors it works great,I could probably go 20 k outdoors. A little too much steering with 10k 👍
#955
Tech Rookie
How do you guys feel about the et410 as a smallish, nimble, “in the city” type basher/all around rc? Is it a good size/shape for streets/grass/curbs? I grew up with a 1/10 stadium truck so it gives me the nostalgia feels. And I think itd make a nice compliment to my SMT10...
#956
Tech Addict
ya I was advised to bump up the rear shocks to 35 weight and run it box stock. I did make a mistake in the build and put 10k in front instead of 30k. I caught it before it hit dirt and thought, f it,I’ll run it with 10k. I didn’t like the entry/exit steering on the couple I test drove before I bought it....Honestly I wasn’t impressed with either test drive. But I gave it a shot and when I ran it first pack, it was like the holy grail! Best box stock car I’ve ever driven!! And I love the 10 k in front. Indoors it works great,I could probably go 20 k outdoors. A little too much steering with 10k 👍
#957
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
How do you guys feel about the et410 as a smallish, nimble, “in the city” type basher/all around rc? Is it a good size/shape for streets/grass/curbs? I grew up with a 1/10 stadium truck so it gives me the nostalgia feels. And I think itd make a nice compliment to my SMT10...
#958
On the ET410, it doesn't fit. I'm guessing people are either not moving the shocks/arms or they are custom printing one.
I guess I'll have to buy another EB410 for mod to use up this mount!
#959
Can you show a pic of how it's not fitting? The only reason I can see it not working is that when the arms are flipped the mounts for the swaybar (on the arm) are too far away and puts the plastic part connecting the arm to the bar at too much of an angle, which would cause it to bind on the ball at droop.