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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Last edit by: Kraig
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 01-27-2019, 08:15 AM
  #2341  
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Is there something wrong here,completed my build,going by kit setup 22 ride height and shock collars are maxxed
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:25 AM
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Iv been enjoying my B6.1D for a few months and recently a carpet track opened near me and after getting tired of swapping the car back and forth between dirt and carpet set ups I purchased a used Yokomo YZ2. Can anybody with experience with both cars describe their handling differences and or performance benefits over one another?

thanks

Noah
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by eddosi

Is there something wrong here,completed my build,going by kit setup 22 ride height and shock collars are maxxed
Looks like you have the wrong shock eyelet, and possibly the wrong spring perch. You need the short eyelet with the zero offset spring perch on the front.

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Old 01-27-2019, 08:32 AM
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In my experience, for anyone trying to make a B6.1 D be both a carpet and a dirt car, in my opinion its not worth it. To be competitive and for ease of use and ease of mind, it is a lot easier to have two independent cars. Your set ups can be more fine tuned and you don't have to keep track of as many tuning parts.... My 2 cents

Noah
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MX304
Looks like you have the wrong shock eyelet, and possibly the wrong spring perch. You need the short eyelet with the zero offset spring perch on the front.
The manual calls for front spring cups 5mm and long eyelet
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by eddosi
The manual calls for front spring cups 5mm and long eyelet
what is your ride height and what ride height are you trying to achieve?
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by eddosi
The manual calls for front spring cups 5mm and long eyelet
6.1 calls for short eyelets and 5mm cups up front, long eyelets and 0mm cups rear.
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:45 AM
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its slightly over 23,basically wanna run box setup and adjust from there,22 is the stock setup.i recently compressed the shocks and managed to loosen the collar some,maybe the spring coups had to settle in.i just find it weird how close the collar is to the top of the shocks
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by slakr
6.1 calls for short eyelets and 5mm cups up front, long eyelets and 0mm cups rear.
i have the D kit
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by eddosi
i have the D kit

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Old 01-27-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by eddosi
its slightly over 23,basically wanna run box setup and adjust from there,22 is the stock setup.i recently compressed the shocks and managed to loosen the collar some,maybe the spring coups had to settle in.i just find it weird how close the collar is to the top of the shocks
Do not worry about the shock collar being close to the top. If you need more space just run the next smaller spring cup and you can move the collar further down. I prefer having the collar as close to the top as possible, easy to tell if the preload is consistent left to right.
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:15 PM
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Ok thanks trf211,really appreciate the help.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:41 PM
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When reading the setup sheet, the caster hats the 0,+1,+2,+3 those are not Millimeters are they?
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Old 01-27-2019, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ceh329
When reading the setup sheet, the caster hats the 0,+1,+2,+3 those are not Millimeters are they?
They are in mm. If you measure them they will be slightly bigger, for instance the '+3' measures around 3.5mm but the difference between the caster spacers will be exactly 1mm.
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Old 01-27-2019, 05:31 PM
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I was looking at one of the set-up sheets from the AE website and couldn;t get the ride heights with what was posted. So I asked a AE driver and he told me to ignore the eyelet and cup and use short eyelet and 0 Cup, that is what is on my car now. If I remember right the car jumps better with the short eyelet from what a AE driver said
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